Picture of Iceshark grounds....aka must do job for all of you
10-06-2003, 06:03 PM
#16
Do you think it's safe to leave it there until after I've started the car and bled the coolant - but then fish it off before I actually drive it?
10-06-2003, 06:04 PM
#17
Originally posted by IceShark
I'd rather have good base parts rather than wasting money polishing up to a mirror a SS exaust under the car.
I'd rather have good base parts rather than wasting money polishing up to a mirror a SS exaust under the car.
....
If you wanted to just get a few pieces of some things, you knew exactly what you wanted, and were never going to need more, you could present yourself as a potential (corporate) buyer and try to get samples. For some companies, it costs more to invoice you for the parts than it does for them to just give them to you.
Oh, I found a retail source for that nylon/rubberish wire loom. More on that at a later time.
-Kevin
10-06-2003, 10:37 PM
#18
Nordschleife Master
Originally posted by 89magic98
Oh, I found a retail source for that nylon/rubberish wire loom. More on that at a later time.
Oh, I found a retail source for that nylon/rubberish wire loom. More on that at a later time.
10-06-2003, 11:22 PM
#19
Oh hey, while were talking about Dan's kits, I have some comments and questions.
1) At least on my car ('88 924S) the alternator to starter lead doesn't run under the manifold with the brittle plastic clips like you describe. I think maybe 924S owners luck out there, or someone did some work prior to me, as mine was simply run past the oil seperator and zipped to the engine support cradle. Can other 924S owners confirm this is normal or not?
2) WOW, that end with the fuse is a bear. How much can you **** on that thing to get it (the lead coming out of the fuse) to bend without harming it? It clears well enough, but it is so stiff it stands the cable up high enough that I didn't/couldn't secure it to the lowest bell house cable clamp position.
Overall, very pleased with the results, excellent quality.
1) At least on my car ('88 924S) the alternator to starter lead doesn't run under the manifold with the brittle plastic clips like you describe. I think maybe 924S owners luck out there, or someone did some work prior to me, as mine was simply run past the oil seperator and zipped to the engine support cradle. Can other 924S owners confirm this is normal or not?
2) WOW, that end with the fuse is a bear. How much can you **** on that thing to get it (the lead coming out of the fuse) to bend without harming it? It clears well enough, but it is so stiff it stands the cable up high enough that I didn't/couldn't secure it to the lowest bell house cable clamp position.
Overall, very pleased with the results, excellent quality.
Last edited by Manning; 10-07-2003 at 11:53 PM.
10-07-2003, 02:06 AM
#20
Originally posted by IceShark
Oops, what are you thinking about? You need to be carefull on harness material under the hood and that doesn't sound so great.
Oops, what are you thinking about? You need to be carefull on harness material under the hood and that doesn't sound so great.
1. For the wiring harness for the under-hood light that goes up the hood hings on the driver's side.
2. For the headlight bucket on the passenger's side.
Both are relatively cool places.
The loom is part of a wiring harness for heavy-duty light bars on "baja" type trucks. I just need to pull the wires out of the loom. It comes in 20 foot bundles. I had it lying around the house, believe it or not.
So it is probably meant more for use not in the engine compartment, but my intention is not to use loom near anything hot. It's real similar to the existing harness wire loom material in thickness and appearance (I know that heat qualities are unknown).
Maybe I'll post a picture later on.
Kevin
10-07-2003, 06:52 AM
#21
Nordschleife Master
Kevin,
Both those applications are not particularly high current. Since you have it laying around go ahead and use it up. If it fails you blow a fuse and lose a light, not exactly the end of the world. I would be a little worried about using it for the battery - starter - alternator cables if you don't know exactly what you have there. If those cables short out you likely catch the car on fire so you need to be particular in the material you use.
BTW, those roof mounted light bars are usually a dumb idea. Puts the light beams above your line of sight. If there is anything in the air like water (fog or rain) or dust they will really light that up close to you and backscatter light on your eyes. Say goodbye night vision. Better to get a bumper guard and mount extra lights on that.
Both those applications are not particularly high current. Since you have it laying around go ahead and use it up. If it fails you blow a fuse and lose a light, not exactly the end of the world. I would be a little worried about using it for the battery - starter - alternator cables if you don't know exactly what you have there. If those cables short out you likely catch the car on fire so you need to be particular in the material you use.
BTW, those roof mounted light bars are usually a dumb idea. Puts the light beams above your line of sight. If there is anything in the air like water (fog or rain) or dust they will really light that up close to you and backscatter light on your eyes. Say goodbye night vision. Better to get a bumper guard and mount extra lights on that.
Last edited by IceShark; 10-07-2003 at 07:08 AM.
10-07-2003, 09:18 AM
#22
Originally posted by IceShark
Kevin,
Both those applications are not particularly high current. Since you have it laying around go ahead and use it up. If it fails you blow a fuse and lose a light, not exactly the end of the world. I would be a little worried about using it for the battery - starter - alternator cables if you don't know exactly what you have there. If those cables short out you likely catch the car on fire so you need to be particular in the material you use.
BTW, those roof mounted light bars are usually a dumb idea. Puts the light beams above your line of sight. If there is anything in the air like water (fog or rain) or dust they will really light that up close to you and backscatter light on your eyes. Say goodbye night vision. Better to get a bumper guard and mount extra lights on that.
Kevin,
Both those applications are not particularly high current. Since you have it laying around go ahead and use it up. If it fails you blow a fuse and lose a light, not exactly the end of the world. I would be a little worried about using it for the battery - starter - alternator cables if you don't know exactly what you have there. If those cables short out you likely catch the car on fire so you need to be particular in the material you use.
BTW, those roof mounted light bars are usually a dumb idea. Puts the light beams above your line of sight. If there is anything in the air like water (fog or rain) or dust they will really light that up close to you and backscatter light on your eyes. Say goodbye night vision. Better to get a bumper guard and mount extra lights on that.
I can get 30 feet of loom, that happens to have 30 feet of 10 gauge wire, and ~120 feet of 12 gauge wire in it, for $30. In other words, I'm going to completely disassemble it, use the loom by itself, put the wire aside for another day. Seemed like a good deal at the time.
This harness was sold with a 30 Amp relay (also included in the box). So I imagine that it expects some of the wires in the loom to at least be able to carry 20 Amps or so.
I never intended it for roof-mounted lights. I just wanted to use it for parts.
Kevin
10-07-2003, 09:23 AM
#23
Burning Brakes
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All this talk of grounds had me looking at mine. My main engine ground is not on the clutch bell housing, it is on a bolt going into the neck for the water hose coming out of the heater core. I remembered thinking that was strange when I changed the clutch and didn't have to deal with the ground, but forgot all about it. Normal? Optimal? Also noticed the plastic cover on that ground cable is pretty well cracked up.. Probably time for new cables at some point..
10-07-2003, 09:46 AM
#24
Nordschleife Master
stolarzj, that is REALLY the wrong place for it to be. It is hard to get down to the proper place on the motor so someone took a huge moronic shortcut after they did the repair job on whatever.
I'm doing a new build of negative cables when the parts show up, I hope this weekend. That is $44 plus the shipping. If you want one let me know.
I'm doing a new build of negative cables when the parts show up, I hope this weekend. That is $44 plus the shipping. If you want one let me know.
10-07-2003, 10:04 AM
#26
Burning Brakes
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Ya.. I guess if I''m going to move it, I ought to just replace the cables.. Probably hard to describe, but which bolt on the bell housing is the proper one? I'm guessing top passengers side? If I recall correctly that bolt was a difficult one to get to. Probably the partial cause of some of my problems, occasional (probably more then occasional) hard/long starts, slow cranking..
10-07-2003, 10:18 AM
#27
There are 2 bolt holes, directly under where the speed/reference sensors are. It's on the clutch bellhousing. On an N/A engine you have to disconnect a coolant hose to get the best access to these grounds.
One bolt has the negative battery cable and a brown ground cable going into the main wiring harness. There is another bolt 2-3 inches away for a smaller brown ground cable.
Kevin
One bolt has the negative battery cable and a brown ground cable going into the main wiring harness. There is another bolt 2-3 inches away for a smaller brown ground cable.
Kevin
10-07-2003, 10:24 AM
#28
Burning Brakes
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Don't talk about pulling coolant hoses, sensitive subject after this weekend.. The only wires I had to pull off when I pulled the belhousing out where the two sensors. Guess I will go look for pictures in the shop manual. I think my grounds are a little different from the 924, the main ground to the block isn't going thru a harness, but directly from the battery.
10-07-2003, 10:47 AM
#29
The 924s will be exactly the same as a N/A 944 for this.
The battery cable goes to the chassis inside the battery box, and to the bellhousing where it is held in by a bolt. That bolt _also_ holds the main ground that goes through the firewall.
The attached picture is a view from the back of the engine (as if you could see through the firewall towards the front of the car). You can see the speed and reference sensor, and the two bolts for the grounds. See the way one bolt holds the battery cable and another cable, the smaller bolt holds the second ground wire? That's where the "stock" grounds should be.
The battery cable goes to the chassis inside the battery box, and to the bellhousing where it is held in by a bolt. That bolt _also_ holds the main ground that goes through the firewall.
The attached picture is a view from the back of the engine (as if you could see through the firewall towards the front of the car). You can see the speed and reference sensor, and the two bolts for the grounds. See the way one bolt holds the battery cable and another cable, the smaller bolt holds the second ground wire? That's where the "stock" grounds should be.
Last edited by 89magic98; 10-07-2003 at 11:11 AM.
10-07-2003, 10:57 AM
#30
Nordschleife Master
stolarzj, Naw, every 924/944 has the same ground point on the top left side of the motor/bellhousing. Right close by the dreaded inspection hole that many drop junk into and have a new problem.
Some have a bolt the screws into the block, others have a stud and you screw a nut and lock washer on it. It is hard to get to it, I don't think you can even see it when everything is together. So you need to pull apart the heater hose and the speed/referance sensor wire mount on the top of the motor.
You have to bite the bullet on coolant, again. I don't think you can get down there unless you have a bunch of experiance building boats inside bottles with chopsticks.
Some have a bolt the screws into the block, others have a stud and you screw a nut and lock washer on it. It is hard to get to it, I don't think you can even see it when everything is together. So you need to pull apart the heater hose and the speed/referance sensor wire mount on the top of the motor.
You have to bite the bullet on coolant, again. I don't think you can get down there unless you have a bunch of experiance building boats inside bottles with chopsticks.