GTZ

I had a dent on the gas tank of motorcycle. I thought I would take a chance on the Ding King. I followed the directions to the letter, and could not make the provided glue stick to the paint. The directions say to wait 5 to 10 minutes before trying to pull the dent. I did that about five times, and no luck. It just pulled the glue right off the paint. So tried again, but this time I waited about 20 minutes. Well it didn't pull the dent at all, but it pulled a 50 cent size chunk of paint off! This is the original paint. They do say not to use on a repaint.
I am so pissed right now. This bike is almost mint, and now I'll have to have the tank professionally done at probably around $500 dollars.
Billy Mays is the devil and the Ding King is a POS product.
Consider yourselves warned.

Randy

brrt50cal

Wow...I was going to use that thing actually on the P-car but I got into an accident and fortunately it was where I had the accident. Although the repair bill for that was over 1000 bucks.

Enzo's Nightmare

Sorry to hear that. I warned against that product a long time ago on this board. Getting dents out of a motorcycle tank is pretty much impossible. I used to work at a Paintless Dent Removal company (Dent Wizard) and we had to turn every customer with a motorcycle down because there really is nothing that can be done. The Ding King you refer to is a very cheap version of the professional glue pullers that PDR companies use. There really is more skill to pulling out dents too, because you also have to tap the high spots (where the metal gets pulled up) down and this can be a tricky process in itself, especially on aluminum.

Enzo's Nightmare

NOBODY SHOULD EVEN THINK OF USING THESE ON YOUR PORSCHE!!!

Devia

Good point; also you have to remember that a motorcycle tank is smaller, thus more difficult to get dings out of.

I have thought of using the Ding King, but I've decided that I'm going to repaint my Porsche with the dings in it, rather than use body filler.

Unless someone has a better idea!

- Julie

IceShark

The good paintless guys can do a pretty fine job of smoothing things out so you may want to give them a shot, Julie.

I use a great older German guy that used to work in the BMW factory taking assembly line dings out. His job interview when he got hired was he was given a chunk of sheet metal and told to make an exterior door skin. With a hammer and what ever else they use on a one off.

hoffman912

Julie, body filler (puddy) is evil, cheep, and not worth a flying f*ck.

dents should be pounded out, and then the body guy shold heat shrink the crease (heat the raised part of the dent after everythings pounded out, with a torch, and then after its heated, tap the crease back in ontop of itself so that its all flush). pounding out the dent and heat shrinking is the best most profesional way of taking care of dents when it comes to restoration.

further more, for the parst that cannot be pounded out, lead loading is the best way to do it. puddy will crack, come loose, fall off. with lead loading the melt lead down, onto the metal of the car, filling the spaces with lead. the lead because its metal, permanently bonds with the body of the car, kinda like fancy soldering.

never use bondo.. its cheep it will look like **** after a few years. never use popsa dent or any of those cheep *** products. when it comes to body work, make sure its done right! you and your car will be happier, it will be stronger, and wont look like ***.

Manning

You just watched "A Car is Reborn" huh?

hoffman912

i saw it a few years ago

amazing stuff. that series tought me alot about cars. i try to watch it when ever its on, but its usually on when im at work on saturday.

jp944

Julie,

Talk to a paintless dent repair shop. They normally turn away cars that are older than 8 years, not because the dent can't be removed but because the paint gets brittle and is prone to crack. Tell them you want to repaint without filler and it's no problem if they crack the paint. You should be able to easily find a shop that will do it for you.

GTZ: On motorcycle tanks, I've been told that filling them partially with water and putting them into a freezer will pop most small dents. Never tested the method myself. Use at your own risk.

Sean M.

I had a pretty ood experience with the Ding King. Someone left a nasty crease in my 944 fender. The DK got most (not all) of it out. It was definitely worth the $20 to me.

At some point in the future, I'll have the car repainted...or something. But for now, the DK made the dent something I can live with.

I have heard reports from other people who had bad experiences with it. So take my experience with caution. Maybe I just got lucky!

marky522

Hey hoffman, I dont agree with your assumptions about bondo, I preofessionally bondoed, for a number of years and it is an art to do it right, ans when done right it will last forever. but it comes down to doing it right, if some joe blow in his back yard does it,it'll look like crap. I agree with your properly doing body work, when i restore my 65 mustang that'll be the way i'll do it but if my 81 924 gets into an accident, if i can make it look good i will use bondo.

Just my .02
Mark

just my .02

Mark Parker

Harry. Marky and I agree. Call any body shop you care to and ask if they will use lead in your repair, I doubt you'll find one. Resin based fillers when used properly will give perfectly good and permanent results. Lead used improperly won't do any better than bondo used improperly.

Legoland951

How much money do you have to do your body work? I think the best one I have seen costs about $40k where they take a Ferrari and make all the body panels fit better than factory made before they paint it. I think my last paint job cost $850 (good good buddy rate) wet sanded and polished looks better than factory because it has no orange peels. I don't mind bondo but a good body guy will use VERY minimal after the sheet metal work.

nine-44

GTZ, shoot xsboost an Email or PM if you need repaint work on your tank.