Compressing the cam chain tensioner
#1
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To remove the cam chain tensioner, it says you're supposed to compress it by pushing down on the chain. I tried doing this, and it only moves about 1/8". There's no way I can compress it enough to put an allen wrench through one of the holes and over the plastic pad! What's the secret to getting the cam chain tensioner compressed for removal?
#2
Three Wheelin'
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This is a great question that I'll have next weekend! There are a dozen S2 guys here - someone must know!
I do know the tensioner is hydraulic and therefore "should" be unpressurized with then engine off.
There's a great description on the plastic pad replacement here...
http://boerger.golden-tech.com/image...eplacement.htm
Maybe there's a clue?
If you solve this - pleace PM with anything you find - as I said - I'm tackling this next weekend in my new (to me) '90 S2.
RK
I do know the tensioner is hydraulic and therefore "should" be unpressurized with then engine off.
There's a great description on the plastic pad replacement here...
http://boerger.golden-tech.com/image...eplacement.htm
Maybe there's a clue?
If you solve this - pleace PM with anything you find - as I said - I'm tackling this next weekend in my new (to me) '90 S2.
RK
#3
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It is hard, but you're pushing oil out of the arm, and also there is a pretty strong spring in there... work it back and fourth with the heel of your hand (wear gloves to make it hurt less), also wiggling it a bit will help.... compress, uncompress, compress, etc, in about 5-10 cycles it'll push down for you.
Good luck!
Noah
Good luck!
Noah
#4
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Yay, it's done. I even started the car without the engine exploding. I also changed oil filter and added almost 7 quarts of new oil.
Noah is right, just pushing down on it several times gets the oil out. But still the spring is pretty strong, so I found it easier to get someone else to push down on the chain while i shoved 2 little allen wrenches through the holes. They end up going between the plastic pad and the chain.
Okay, so here's my advice: when removing the j-tube, be VERY careful about the washers. There are 2 of them on each end of the j-tube (4 total washers). If you drop one, it could fall into the abyss of your engine, and you'll never get it out (ask me how I know).
Also, removing the spark plugs seems to have been unnecessary, now that I think about it.
Noah is right, just pushing down on it several times gets the oil out. But still the spring is pretty strong, so I found it easier to get someone else to push down on the chain while i shoved 2 little allen wrenches through the holes. They end up going between the plastic pad and the chain.
Okay, so here's my advice: when removing the j-tube, be VERY careful about the washers. There are 2 of them on each end of the j-tube (4 total washers). If you drop one, it could fall into the abyss of your engine, and you'll never get it out (ask me how I know).
Also, removing the spark plugs seems to have been unnecessary, now that I think about it.
#5
Three Wheelin'
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Did you replace the cam cover seals while you were in there?
Mine are leaking - allowing oil to seep into the plug holes.
And tips on replacing those seals or are they just regular gaskets?
RK
Mine are leaking - allowing oil to seep into the plug holes.
And tips on replacing those seals or are they just regular gaskets?
RK
#6
Rennlist Member
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You should really replace all seals and the cam cover gasket when doing the job. Max posted an all inclusive parts list on this forum awhile back. About $55 total in parts, not including the tensioner assembly.
#7
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I replaced the main valve cover gasket, but I didn't replace the 4 spark plug gaskets. I should have replaced them though, and I plan on doing it soon. The outer gasket cost me $13 and the tensioner pad was $6 from the dealer.