Can't get clutch bellhousing off 944
#1
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey guys!
It's my first time working on a car and I'm trying to replace the clutch on my 83 944. I've already removed the exhaust, transmission, starter motor and the clutch slave cylinder. My problem is that I cant reach the bolts necessary to remove the bellhousing.
The Hayne's repair manual I'm using makes it sound so easy but theres barely enough room to fit anything in those areas. I've looked around online but it doesn't seem like anyone else has any trouble getting to these bolts. Do I need specific tools to reach these? Maybe theres a trick to making them easier to reach?
Any help is appreciated! Thanks!!!
It's my first time working on a car and I'm trying to replace the clutch on my 83 944. I've already removed the exhaust, transmission, starter motor and the clutch slave cylinder. My problem is that I cant reach the bolts necessary to remove the bellhousing.
The Hayne's repair manual I'm using makes it sound so easy but theres barely enough room to fit anything in those areas. I've looked around online but it doesn't seem like anyone else has any trouble getting to these bolts. Do I need specific tools to reach these? Maybe theres a trick to making them easier to reach?
Any help is appreciated! Thanks!!!
#2
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Breaker bar with a shallow 19mm socket on it, you should be ok. Once they're broken free use a wrench. At least that worked well on my '83. You also need to remove the clutch fork pin prior to removing the bellhousing or it will catch.
#3
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I found myself struggling with these bolts as well. Hang in there! I used a universal joint on the upper ones. My primary tool kit came with them, but harbor freight probably sells them separately as well.
Two extra tidbits on clearance; once the Torquetube is off , the motor tends to pivot back toward the firewall. You could apply some tension the other way using an engine hoist to pivot the motor forward.
It is also possible [PROBABLE ] that your motor mounts are shot and can cause some more settling and that is costing you even more precious clearance [ as well as rattling you to death during engine warmup]
Cheers
Two extra tidbits on clearance; once the Torquetube is off , the motor tends to pivot back toward the firewall. You could apply some tension the other way using an engine hoist to pivot the motor forward.
It is also possible [PROBABLE ] that your motor mounts are shot and can cause some more settling and that is costing you even more precious clearance [ as well as rattling you to death during engine warmup]
Cheers
Last edited by KandA928; 09-05-2015 at 08:43 AM. Reason: Damn autocorrect
#5
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks guys i'll look around at harbor freight and see what they have. My arsenal of tools is small but they got me this far! I also heard that the clutch pin fork is a pain in the a** but theres plenty of threads on that so i'll look there for more info!
#6
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yeah, it can be if it's never been touched. You may need to rent a slide hammer. Luckily in me case all I needed was a long thread (M8 x 1.25mm if I remember right?) and some vice grips to grab onto the bolt head. Make sure you apply grease to the pin when you reinstall it.
#7
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This is about all I have on it. It's from an S2 but it mostly applies to the earlier cars also:
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...h-housing.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...h-housing.html