Paging nine-44 re: clear non-popup headlights
#16
Ue aluminum foil over cardboard or clay, or whatever you use for a form. Use a bruh to put some resin on the foil and lay matt over it and paint more resin on it. Good Luck man!
#17
Sam, do you want me to dump your headlight deposit check back to you as you decide what you want to do? I haven't cashed it and you are going to need some different stuff if you go too crazy with the fixed lights.
I don't think it is going to work too good, but if you are after cosmetics, then performance really doesn't rank up on the scale. I actually looked into this and made some tests. Just let me know.
I don't think it is going to work too good, but if you are after cosmetics, then performance really doesn't rank up on the scale. I actually looked into this and made some tests. Just let me know.
#18
Hey Dan, keep the check, I'll buy at least one of your kit regardless of what I end up doing.
Why do you think performance is going to suffer? That's what I'm after, the cosmetics really aren't too important to me - I thought the only RIGHT way to go HID was to put in a purpose-designed projector, in my case likely an OEM one off an Audi RS6, it's bi-xenon so I keep both beams, and has the E-Code beam pattern, using OEM D2S lamps. I know you've done a lot of research into lighting, and I would really appreciate your input.
Thanks!
Sam
Why do you think performance is going to suffer? That's what I'm after, the cosmetics really aren't too important to me - I thought the only RIGHT way to go HID was to put in a purpose-designed projector, in my case likely an OEM one off an Audi RS6, it's bi-xenon so I keep both beams, and has the E-Code beam pattern, using OEM D2S lamps. I know you've done a lot of research into lighting, and I would really appreciate your input.
Thanks!
Sam
#20
Sam, I said that because I didn't think you were going E-Code HID.
If you can fit some Audi HID projectors in there, then you should do fine. Who makes the Audi ones, I've never looked close at that car? Also, if they are E-Code and are coming from Europe they are going to have an automatic aim leveling system built into the mounting housing which will be even bulkier. But if you can get them cheap from a junk yard/parts breaker give it a shot and let us know how it turns out and what was involved.
You may also have to do some headlight rewiring because I don't know if our cars' wiring can take the initial current draw of striking the HID arc. But that will be the least of your work compared to the fabrication and fitment.
If you can fit some Audi HID projectors in there, then you should do fine. Who makes the Audi ones, I've never looked close at that car? Also, if they are E-Code and are coming from Europe they are going to have an automatic aim leveling system built into the mounting housing which will be even bulkier. But if you can get them cheap from a junk yard/parts breaker give it a shot and let us know how it turns out and what was involved.
You may also have to do some headlight rewiring because I don't know if our cars' wiring can take the initial current draw of striking the HID arc. But that will be the least of your work compared to the fabrication and fitment.
#21
Shouldn't there be ballast boxes for each that amplify the signal to get enough to strike the arc? I've done a few HID (Hella) installs on some Benzes, and the wiring is a piece of cake with their harness and ballast boxes. I would think if you get that, it should be OK running high amplified voltages with low amp draw on the system...
#23
Hey Dan, seller says they're made by Hella - the auction is here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2432055087
(please noone outbid me!)
I'm not too sure about the auto-leveling, they should have them though.
I put HIDs into my Accord's stock housings, and the beam pattern is surprisingly good - I will likely run new wire in the 951 for the ballasts, though that ballast is supposed to act as a capacitor and then after the arc is struck, current should actually be less than stock. It's way too early to tell now, I'm slowly buying parts and planning out what will be a HUGE project to modify every aspect of the car in the next year or 2.
nine-44 (and others) - is the only source for the clear covers straight from GT Racing, or are there GT resellers out there?
Any other feedback is definitely appreciated!
Sam
EDIT: The auction I posted is not the E-codes OR the Hellas - it's just a couple hundred cheaper than the Audi E-codes, we'll see what it ends at - if it goes much higher then I'm getting the Audi E-codes. However, according to the other seller, the Audi E-codes are the same as Benz E55 and are also made by Hella.
Here's the Audi auction that I'm considering:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2432568367
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2432055087
(please noone outbid me!)
I'm not too sure about the auto-leveling, they should have them though.
I put HIDs into my Accord's stock housings, and the beam pattern is surprisingly good - I will likely run new wire in the 951 for the ballasts, though that ballast is supposed to act as a capacitor and then after the arc is struck, current should actually be less than stock. It's way too early to tell now, I'm slowly buying parts and planning out what will be a HUGE project to modify every aspect of the car in the next year or 2.
nine-44 (and others) - is the only source for the clear covers straight from GT Racing, or are there GT resellers out there?
Any other feedback is definitely appreciated!
Sam
EDIT: The auction I posted is not the E-codes OR the Hellas - it's just a couple hundred cheaper than the Audi E-codes, we'll see what it ends at - if it goes much higher then I'm getting the Audi E-codes. However, according to the other seller, the Audi E-codes are the same as Benz E55 and are also made by Hella.
Here's the Audi auction that I'm considering:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2432568367
#24
I only know of GT-Racing selling them. I planned to run relays on my HID set-up, they draw about 25-30 amps to ignite them and like 10-15 once they are on and constant. That's what I got from my HIDs on a meter and powersupply.
#25
Andy, that amp draw is total for the pair, right? Still, seems sort of high for the running current once you strike the arc. But at 30 amps for the arc strike it may not be so good for our light switches so try them and find out if you fry the switch or be safe and rewire.
Sam, it is hard to tell since there is no scale in the picture so ask the seller how deep they are, but they should probably fit OK. Also, is the balast built into the lens fitting? Better make sure you are getting that and not just the lens, those raw clipped off wires without a plug have me worried. I also wonder if they are including the bulbs in the auction as the wording is sort of strange. But if they are new and complete ready to wire up and work, $200 for the pair is a great price. Actually too good for new ones, which has me very cautious you may not be getting what you thought you were.
Sam, it is hard to tell since there is no scale in the picture so ask the seller how deep they are, but they should probably fit OK. Also, is the balast built into the lens fitting? Better make sure you are getting that and not just the lens, those raw clipped off wires without a plug have me worried. I also wonder if they are including the bulbs in the auction as the wording is sort of strange. But if they are new and complete ready to wire up and work, $200 for the pair is a great price. Actually too good for new ones, which has me very cautious you may not be getting what you thought you were.
#26
One of the auctions is only for the projector, no HID lamps or ballast - the 2 wires are for the high beam shield. The other does include the HID setup with the projector.
One seller said 5.5" depth, other said 6" (the 2 are different projectors), that's from back to tip of lens. As I mentioned earlier, I'm ditching the stock airbox for a cone filter because my stock airbox tabs are all broken, it's not sealing and hence not filtering any more, cone is the most readily available way for me to go. So, I should have additional depth available driver's side - I'm not too sure what'd be in the way of passenger side.
Sam
One seller said 5.5" depth, other said 6" (the 2 are different projectors), that's from back to tip of lens. As I mentioned earlier, I'm ditching the stock airbox for a cone filter because my stock airbox tabs are all broken, it's not sealing and hence not filtering any more, cone is the most readily available way for me to go. So, I should have additional depth available driver's side - I'm not too sure what'd be in the way of passenger side.
Sam
#27
I'm not using the HID set-up, I scrapped the idea because I would sacrifice room for my catch can and intake on my particular set-up. No, I tested them induvidually. I'm going on my memory on the draws. I can test them again if you are curious. I'm running driving lightsinstead and plan to use relays. After I learned that they ran direct on the switch, I had planned for relays.
#28
Sam, PM me if you want me to track down some HIDs for you man. I'll be back online in about 15 mins. BTW, my buddie is going to be at a swap meet tomorrow, he may have some there with him.
#29
Hey, I'd appreciate if you could at least get me some price references - I'd like bi-xenon, OEM projector, and preferably E-Code. I've got a few eBay ideas I'm watching, they'll all end in 3 days and if nothing works out then, I'd appreciate your help if you've got other better sources for an OEM HID and projector setup.
Thanks for all your help!
Sam
EDIT: I didn't PM, instead replied here, because I have PMs shut off - they tend to mess up my web browser.
Thanks for all your help!
Sam
EDIT: I didn't PM, instead replied here, because I have PMs shut off - they tend to mess up my web browser.
#30
Ahh, no prob man. I would guess and say that the ones he has are single, most likely, A4 97-00 or A6 98-00 or somewhere about. They have an open halogen highbean and HID projector lows.