P-9201 Calibration
#1
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I just got a used "The Tool" along with the calibration bar.
I have turned the dial so that it reads "4" when used with the calibration bar, but it then goes past "0" to about "97" when the tension is released.
Is this normal or do I need to make some other adjustments or is my tool (and wallet) whacked?
I tried to find a write-up on the net on the finer points of calibrating "The Tool" with out much luck.
Thanks in advance.
I have turned the dial so that it reads "4" when used with the calibration bar, but it then goes past "0" to about "97" when the tension is released.
Is this normal or do I need to make some other adjustments or is my tool (and wallet) whacked?
I tried to find a write-up on the net on the finer points of calibrating "The Tool" with out much luck.
Thanks in advance.
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Michael,
I think I hijacked this from the toolmaster a few years ago for a friend but the procedure is correct and easy to follow.
Orientation: So we're on the same page here, Top of the 9201 tool is defined as the highest portion of the tool, when you're looking at the gauge on the front and the gauge is not upside down, and the release tab is to your right. Right is defined as the right hand side when the tool is oriented so you're looking at the gauge and once again, it's not upside-down.
1) If the needle on the P9201 tool is not at zero, move the gauge face until it is. There are 2 needles on the gauge face, one moves as you turn the center screw in the gauge face, the other moves as the bar in the P9201 tool gets moved. The bar-moving needle is the one we're concerned with here.
2) Examine the P9201/2 calibration bar, notice that it has lips on each end. These lips will allow the tabs on the P9201 tool to fit onto them. During calibration, the center portion of the calibration bar will be higher (towards the top of the P9201 tool) than the lips on the bar.
3) Pull on the release **** of the P9201, to unlock the right-most tab. (Right is defined as the right hand side as you are looking at the gauge.) Move the right-hand tab to it's most lowered position.
4) Place the calibration bar lips on each tab of the P9201 tool. The center area of the calibration bar will be higher than the end lips. Notice how well the lips hold the calibration bar in place. (Well - not really - but it sounds good doesn't it?)
5) Move the right-hand most tab up towards the top of the P9201 tool, and you'll notice that the gauge needle will start to move. Move the right hand tab up until it clicks into place. There will be a little resistance here, as you're putting tension on the gauge to check it.
6) The needle should now be pointing at the number 4. If it is - you're done, and the tool is calibrated. (I calibrate it EVERY time I send it out - so chances are - it's where it needs to be.)
7) If the needle is not dead-on the number 4, using the 1.5mm allen wrench in the hole on the bottom of the P9201 tool (small round hole) move the needle while the calibration bar is on the tool. Set the needle to be dead-on the 4. (It's a little hard to get the allen wrench in the right place - using a flashlight and a little patience are all it takes.)
8) Once set - remove the calibration bar by pulling on the release **** on the P9201.
9) Check your work, test the tool again to insure that it's on 4 with the calibration bar on the tool.
10) Once you can repeat the test a couple times in a row and get 4 each time, you're done.
I think I hijacked this from the toolmaster a few years ago for a friend but the procedure is correct and easy to follow.
Orientation: So we're on the same page here, Top of the 9201 tool is defined as the highest portion of the tool, when you're looking at the gauge on the front and the gauge is not upside down, and the release tab is to your right. Right is defined as the right hand side when the tool is oriented so you're looking at the gauge and once again, it's not upside-down.
1) If the needle on the P9201 tool is not at zero, move the gauge face until it is. There are 2 needles on the gauge face, one moves as you turn the center screw in the gauge face, the other moves as the bar in the P9201 tool gets moved. The bar-moving needle is the one we're concerned with here.
2) Examine the P9201/2 calibration bar, notice that it has lips on each end. These lips will allow the tabs on the P9201 tool to fit onto them. During calibration, the center portion of the calibration bar will be higher (towards the top of the P9201 tool) than the lips on the bar.
3) Pull on the release **** of the P9201, to unlock the right-most tab. (Right is defined as the right hand side as you are looking at the gauge.) Move the right-hand tab to it's most lowered position.
4) Place the calibration bar lips on each tab of the P9201 tool. The center area of the calibration bar will be higher than the end lips. Notice how well the lips hold the calibration bar in place. (Well - not really - but it sounds good doesn't it?)
5) Move the right-hand most tab up towards the top of the P9201 tool, and you'll notice that the gauge needle will start to move. Move the right hand tab up until it clicks into place. There will be a little resistance here, as you're putting tension on the gauge to check it.
6) The needle should now be pointing at the number 4. If it is - you're done, and the tool is calibrated. (I calibrate it EVERY time I send it out - so chances are - it's where it needs to be.)
7) If the needle is not dead-on the number 4, using the 1.5mm allen wrench in the hole on the bottom of the P9201 tool (small round hole) move the needle while the calibration bar is on the tool. Set the needle to be dead-on the 4. (It's a little hard to get the allen wrench in the right place - using a flashlight and a little patience are all it takes.)
8) Once set - remove the calibration bar by pulling on the release **** on the P9201.
9) Check your work, test the tool again to insure that it's on 4 with the calibration bar on the tool.
10) Once you can repeat the test a couple times in a row and get 4 each time, you're done.
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Thanks so much.
Step number 7 is the key step I was missing. I will have to do this tonight when i can get to my allen wrenchs.
I feel much better now.
Step number 7 is the key step I was missing. I will have to do this tonight when i can get to my allen wrenchs.
I feel much better now.
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#4
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Reviving this thread…
I acquired a used 9201 (new is on back order) and got a new calibration bar from Porsche. Adjustment was straight forward but when I tried to check my work it seems that sometimes it comes back one or two ticks above or under and sometimes comes back to 4 as adjusted. The tool seems to be sensitive to any touching of the calibration bar or rear carriers.
Is this normal and is it useable or it’s a defective needing replacement or rebuild?
I acquired a used 9201 (new is on back order) and got a new calibration bar from Porsche. Adjustment was straight forward but when I tried to check my work it seems that sometimes it comes back one or two ticks above or under and sometimes comes back to 4 as adjusted. The tool seems to be sensitive to any touching of the calibration bar or rear carriers.
Is this normal and is it useable or it’s a defective needing replacement or rebuild?
#5
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I believe that the P9201 is on perpetual galactic backorder.
I believe that the manufacturer (Fritz Staeger, Berlin) has been out of business for quite some time.
More information at this Pelican Parts thread:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...djustment.html
I believe that the manufacturer (Fritz Staeger, Berlin) has been out of business for quite some time.
More information at this Pelican Parts thread:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...djustment.html