Release fork assembly
01-12-2004, 04:46 PM
#17
Drifting
Originally posted by Red1
We were very inefficient Sunday. We lost a lot of time on hangups we'd be better prepared for a second time. Definitely a job made easier through experience.
We were very inefficient Sunday. We lost a lot of time on hangups we'd be better prepared for a second time. Definitely a job made easier through experience.
01-12-2004, 09:10 PM
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
1. The stupid little tube that goes from the torqe tube to the transmission.
2. Getting the shift rod down and back far enough.
3. Remembering to disconnect the ground lug at the top of the bellhousing.
4. Remembering to remove the speed reference sensors before trying to pull the bellhousing off.
5. Realizing that you have to HOLD one of the transmission drive flanges to "spin" the coupler around so you can remove the 2 bolts that hold it on (they are 180 degrees apart). Or you can turn the motor from the crank pulley (24 mm deep socket).
6. Getting the torque tube back far enought to remove the bellhousing. It seems like it won't turn the full 180 degrees, but it will, just watch the "ears" where they pass the torsion bar carrier tube. Also, see above the shifter rod.
7. Removing the relase fork rod. You will remove the "lock" pin no problem, but then to "draw" out the rod itself you will need to thread a bolt into it and draw it against a washer at the end of a short length of tubing, like a copper bushing.
8. Putting the pressure plate and pack in. I assembled the pack (pressure plate, disk, and though out bering with fork) inside the bellhousing and installed it as a unit, bolting the pressure plate up through the starter hole.
9. Not having the 2 bearings for the clutch fork rod that needed to be replaced. (James are you reading this)
10. Not a problem we had, but....dropping the flywheel and messing up the bolt that picks up the REFERENCE sensor for TDC. (Read ALL the posts that start 'Just finished my clutch but now the car won't start')
11. Not knowing how to swear in German.
Hope that helps (Hey Greaslingers, just a refresher)
2. Getting the shift rod down and back far enough.
3. Remembering to disconnect the ground lug at the top of the bellhousing.
4. Remembering to remove the speed reference sensors before trying to pull the bellhousing off.
5. Realizing that you have to HOLD one of the transmission drive flanges to "spin" the coupler around so you can remove the 2 bolts that hold it on (they are 180 degrees apart). Or you can turn the motor from the crank pulley (24 mm deep socket).
6. Getting the torque tube back far enought to remove the bellhousing. It seems like it won't turn the full 180 degrees, but it will, just watch the "ears" where they pass the torsion bar carrier tube. Also, see above the shifter rod.
7. Removing the relase fork rod. You will remove the "lock" pin no problem, but then to "draw" out the rod itself you will need to thread a bolt into it and draw it against a washer at the end of a short length of tubing, like a copper bushing.
8. Putting the pressure plate and pack in. I assembled the pack (pressure plate, disk, and though out bering with fork) inside the bellhousing and installed it as a unit, bolting the pressure plate up through the starter hole.
9. Not having the 2 bearings for the clutch fork rod that needed to be replaced. (James are you reading this)
10. Not a problem we had, but....dropping the flywheel and messing up the bolt that picks up the REFERENCE sensor for TDC. (Read ALL the posts that start 'Just finished my clutch but now the car won't start')
11. Not knowing how to swear in German.
Hope that helps (Hey Greaslingers, just a refresher)
01-12-2004, 11:06 PM
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
1) It's nothing more than a thin plastic tube that the shift linkage goes through the transmission bellhousing. Don't forget to pull it out before trying to drop the tranny.
2) This is where the swearing in German comes in handy.
3) Do that BEFORE removing the bellhousing bolts. It's easy to forget, kind of "out-of-sight, out-of-mind".
5)6) This is where having extra hands around really pays off.
7) Kevin's fork rod was totally encrusted with rubber from his disintegrated clutch center. It did not want to come out. Trying to remove this rod after the bellhousing bolts were out was a PITA. I've only removed this rod from two cars, but in both cases it was reluctant to come out.
9) These needle bearings aren't included in the clutch replacement kit. Personally, I wouldn't re-use the old ones. They're pretty inexpensive. Maybe Kevin remembers the part numbers for them. At the moment I can't find it.
If you're concerned about rusted/seized bolts, I'll suggest AeroKroil:
http://www.kanolaboratories.com/
You can order it direct, and IMHO, it's worth it.
2) This is where the swearing in German comes in handy.
3) Do that BEFORE removing the bellhousing bolts. It's easy to forget, kind of "out-of-sight, out-of-mind".
5)6) This is where having extra hands around really pays off.
7) Kevin's fork rod was totally encrusted with rubber from his disintegrated clutch center. It did not want to come out. Trying to remove this rod after the bellhousing bolts were out was a PITA. I've only removed this rod from two cars, but in both cases it was reluctant to come out.
9) These needle bearings aren't included in the clutch replacement kit. Personally, I wouldn't re-use the old ones. They're pretty inexpensive. Maybe Kevin remembers the part numbers for them. At the moment I can't find it.
If you're concerned about rusted/seized bolts, I'll suggest AeroKroil:
http://www.kanolaboratories.com/
You can order it direct, and IMHO, it's worth it.