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Well thats an 80 with the G31 tranny.... more fun, than a 944, ad a FMIC and a boostcontroller and you are easily in 951 range with less weight. and you can easily lose 200lbs out of it.
And it might be an S with LSD tranny so for 1800.... not bad.
there really aren't many "unavailble parts" and swaping to EFI, takes care of most of that. With a motor that it a bit more robust than the 944 block.
944: "ah crap i gotta fix something again...."
931: "I'm going to tinker with it abit"/ "YAY it starts!"
join the 924board.org
+1 to everything he said.
I've been watching that car for some time on CL, glad it's going to an enthusiast.
I have temporarily shut down the order-taking part of my business, as I am in the process of relocating 8 cars and 30,000 pounds of equipment, tools, and parts from MI to IL, while building a new workshop in IL. At some point, I hope to revive the parts business, but it's not likely to happen until mid-2016 at this point.
If you have any questions about the restoration of that car, don't hesitate to reach out...best option is email (dan DOT beckett AT ideola DOT com).
The good thing about that car is that it is an S1, which means it should be relatively easy and straightforward to get back into top running condition. The most difficult repair will be replacing the crack-prone S1 exhaust manifold with an S2 (hard to do, difficult to find replacements, etc.), but that shouldn't prevent you from getting the car back on the road. The next most difficult thing...and by far the most expensive...will be attending to any issues in the transmission. Dying to know if it's got LSD...
Hey guys, decided to download the app and try it out and post some pics and updates.
@Ideola - I finally got a little time last week and checked, it does have LSD. Must be some type of leak in the rear because I can see where it spun some oil out of the case.
I posted on 924 but haven't had a ton of luck because I'm a noob at reading wiring schematics, think I've got it figured out though. The wiring for the fuel pump relay is all cut besides the tach wire (green+white). But my fuel pump and distributor were both humming but have since stopped, so I looked at the pump and the power (green+black) wire from the front was cut and a new green wire took its place. So they apparently ran a new wire to it and it must have burned up because I have no noise there now.
Could anyone here help me identify these wires and connectors I found? It would get me well on my way.
The wiring pic with my hand under the dash I know what the taped wires are, just not the one with the connector, yellow and black.
Hey guys, decided to download the app and try it out and post some pics and updates.
@Ideola - I finally got a little time last week and checked, it does have LSD. Must be some type of leak in the rear because I can see where it spun some oil out of the case.
I posted on 924 but haven't had a ton of luck because I'm a noob at reading wiring schematics, think I've got it figured out though. The wiring for the fuel pump relay is all cut besides the tach wire (green+white). But my fuel pump and distributor were both humming but have since stopped, so I looked at the pump and the power (green+black) wire from the front was cut and a new green wire took its place. So they apparently ran a new wire to it and it must have burned up because I have no noise there now.
Could anyone here help me identify these wires and connectors I found? It would get me well on my way.
The wiring pic with my hand under the dash I know what the taped wires are, just not the one with the connector, yellow and black.
I'm pretty sure these go to your throttle position switches under your throttle body, the ones with the 90 connections go on the switch with the bent male spades, the straight ones go on the straight spades, these wires are for you lambda system and control you O2 sensor operation and WOT enrichment by way of the frequency valve..
Just pull your upper charge tube (I do this almost daily), then your throttle body TB, check on the condition of the switches on the bottom, adjust them to where one clicks just as the throttle closes and the other click just before its wide open..
Fuel pump wires are
BLK/GRN= +12v power, this comes up through the floor under your hatch carpet by the front right, then run left across the hatch floor to the left side and then run up your divers door sill to the fuse panel location
BRN=Ground, Brown always ground on this car, clean them ALL, ALL.. The fuel pump ground, the thicker one, runs with the BLK/GRN power wire into your hatch floor area and across to the left with the BLK/GRN but turns to the rear when it reaches the left side and grounds on a ground crown in between your tail lights under the carpet in the back, the ground crowns are like a cap with a ring of male spades that screws to the chassis, clean all the contacts on it and under the crown itself and its bolt..
Actully now that I think about it I'm pretty sure both of my FPs go the the same BLK/GRN wire like your browns are doing.. Not 100% sure..
This one I have hanging to and am not for sure what its for, I suspect its for the buttons on the doors that tell the dome light to come on when you open the door, but I'm not real sure, like I said mine are hanging too and mine runs just fine..
This last one the White wire reminds me of the electric antenna, I think it is the "remote" signal to extend it..
The others in this pic I just don't know..
Last edited by fasteddie313; 07-15-2015 at 03:56 PM.
Hey once again I really appreciate it, you have been really helpful to me so far.
I'm gonna clean up all the grounds today because I can't do much else while its parked at my city apartment.
If you look at my fuel pump picture, the 12v black-green wire(left hand side) that would go where you say it is, up into the relay is cut. They put a more "lime green" cable to it and bypassed the relay and must run straight from the battery somewhere.
Personal attack start: odurandina is a bag used for douching, just ignore him. He really ought to change his user name to Snap On, because he's a high quality tool. :Personal attack end.
odurandina edited his ******* post, but this is still true.
Hey once again I really appreciate it, you have been really helpful to me so far.
I'm gonna clean up all the grounds today because I can't do much else while its parked at my city apartment.
If you look at my fuel pump picture, the 12v black-green wire(left hand side) that would go where you say it is, up into the relay is cut. They put a more "lime green" cable to it and bypassed the relay and must run straight from the battery somewhere.
I would put both the FP wires (BLK/GRN-BRN) back to 1 set of wires for both pumps..
IIRC the big wires come to the inline pump and then there the 2 smaller wires of the same colors that come off the inline pump from its contact posts and go to the intank pump..
I have RE-relayed my fuel pumps so there are no excuses for poor quality power to them Using the OEM power to activate 2 relays in parallel (double) that give the FPs direct power off my battery that is in the passengers side rear hatch cubby. I also doubled the FPs ground by splicing into the big brown wire under the hatch carpet and adding another wire from that straight to the battery negative... This takes a big load off the OEM circuitry and provides the FPs the best +12v possible..
I'm not recommending you do this especially since you are just trying to get them to work at this point but I did because I can, shoddy FP power/ground could lean me out at high boost and blow my engine..
Personal attack start: odurandina is a bag used for douching, just ignore him. He really ought to change his user name to Snap On, because he's a high quality tool. :Personal attack end.
odurandina edited his ******* post, but this is still true.
It seems it has gotten worse since his v8 conversion is ready...its ready, right?
Anyway...about that wiring.
Look at where the wiring goes by length, the wiring is designed that you can only install it in the right way. I'll look at my S1 today for that connector as it looks familiar to me but i cant tell where it goes just by looking at that picture
The two transparent/white free connectors are for test purposes within the factory. They are like that on all cars.
I followed the new wiring and found the relay the wired up for the pump. The pump ran as soon as the battery was hooked up non stop with this setup until it stopped, and nothing.
Is there any reason this "new setup" wouldn't work? It looks to be a different type of relay compared to the original one at #2 under the dash.
Yes it should work to run your pumps, it does obviously right?
But it will not work to shut your pumps off if the engine quits running like in the event of an accident so your pump does not pump the tank full of fuel onto a wrecked car with you inside it.. That's the main reason the OEM FP relay has the tach signal to shut the pump down if the engine stops.. I doubt the USA would have let them sell the cars here without such a safety device.
The new relay you have there probably will not unground itself in the event of an overboost situation (which the OEM relay circuit does) so instead of hitting like a rev limiter if your wastegate breaks for any reason your engine will just blow without the overboost circuit.
The OEM relay also has its actual rev limiter built in as another safeguard for your engine you will not have, without this your pistons will meet your valves if you over rev.
Tell ya what, I do a whole lot of wild, crazy, and unorthodox things to my car that most never would and many criticize me for but even I don't think it's a good idea to run without a safety fuel cut incase of an accident. I would definitely run the car like that for testing purposes, but not just settle with leaving it like that.
**** I have a fuel pump switch by my left leg (that I should eliminate now that it's not needed) and another new one under the hood to directly power my FP circuit but only for testing, like for CIS testing since I have a permanently installed CIS tester and bumped pressures, but I still run the OE relay and its safety circuit but with additional relays to make certain my FPs get good power..
The terminations going to the spade connectors on that relay look disgusting...you should redo them with quality terminations and get a new relay because they aren't expensive anyway. Try your local Fastenal for the terminations and an auto parts store for the relay. Just my USD $0.02
06-01-2015, 03:21 PM
