OT: MG cars
#1
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OT: MG cars
After having the chance to drive an ORIGINAL Lotus Super 7 this past weekend, I have had a resurgence in my affinity for British cars. I've always wanted an MGB or a Triumph TR 6 or 7. From what I've found out, the Triumph is a bit out of my price range. however, the MGs are right there. Anybody have any experience with these cars? My dad had an MGB when he married my mom, but he never told me about it. I'm on a quest for information!
#2
They're finicky and catch on fire... but at least they're unreliable and slow!
MGB parts are cheap, that's one thing they have going for them. I want an MGB GT, I like those little things a lot.
MGB parts are cheap, that's one thing they have going for them. I want an MGB GT, I like those little things a lot.
#5
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Also the engine is worn quite a bit more than a 944. I had a 70' MGB with 125K miles on it, and Zero oili pressure. I ended up doing a total rebild on the engine.
It's a lot easy'er than working on a 944. But technique is quite simple ans "brittish" (no smart solutions)
It's a lot easy'er than working on a 944. But technique is quite simple ans "brittish" (no smart solutions)
#6
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Electrics are always a problem on '70s British cars. Parts are available, and it is quite easy to replace the harnesses and most other parts, it's just as everything else.... time consuming and can be $$$.
If you're tall (I'm 6'4"), then don't go for a roadster. I was sitting looking at the top windscreen surround!
Are you looking for a finished car, or a bit of a project? Parts for both MGB's and Triumphs are relatively cheap these days (excluding any chrome bits), so you can't go wrong with either. As you say, the TR6 will be a larger outlay to start with for the same condition of both cars, but it will hold it's value better in the long run.
If you can, try to get a European import. I'm not sure on the MG, but the Triumph had an extra 25HP over the US version.
I'm trying to think of some websites to check parts prices out......... I'll come back! As for info on the cars, have a search on www.google.co.uk , and pick UK sites only. There are plenty of owners clubs, classic car sites and so on with loadsa info on them.
Oh, and if you go MGB, DON'T buy the rubber bumper version....... Fugly beyond belief!
Alternatives maybe????..... Triumph GT6, Triumph Spitfire, TR7??
Oh, and I'll scan that Photo of mine in tonight... Than should whet your appetite even more!
If you're tall (I'm 6'4"), then don't go for a roadster. I was sitting looking at the top windscreen surround!
Are you looking for a finished car, or a bit of a project? Parts for both MGB's and Triumphs are relatively cheap these days (excluding any chrome bits), so you can't go wrong with either. As you say, the TR6 will be a larger outlay to start with for the same condition of both cars, but it will hold it's value better in the long run.
If you can, try to get a European import. I'm not sure on the MG, but the Triumph had an extra 25HP over the US version.
I'm trying to think of some websites to check parts prices out......... I'll come back! As for info on the cars, have a search on www.google.co.uk , and pick UK sites only. There are plenty of owners clubs, classic car sites and so on with loadsa info on them.
Oh, and if you go MGB, DON'T buy the rubber bumper version....... Fugly beyond belief!
Alternatives maybe????..... Triumph GT6, Triumph Spitfire, TR7??
Oh, and I'll scan that Photo of mine in tonight... Than should whet your appetite even more!
#7
My friend has a '78 MG Midget. I love that car to death. It's slow, sure, but it's soooo small and is soooo fun to drive it doesn't matter. Just the fact that as you're driving down I-75 you realize you can slide under an 18-wheeler and make it out alive is astonishing.
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#8
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The best MGs are the pre-bigfender cars... from the mid 60's to the very early 70's.
The main issue with these cars is RUST!!!
I had a 68 MGBGT and it was a great car (aside from rust problems). The engine had been rebuilt and was reasonably powerful. The car's handling was very good... and I had zero problems with the electrics.
The bottom line is that ALL of these cars will (and did) rust. Unless you are going to keep it in a heated garage all its life.
I suggest finding a 69 (roadster or GT) with minimal rust. And then doing a restoration. The engine and trans are cheaper to rebuild fix than a poor body. The 69's are good cars, because they had all of the classic early MG goodies, but they had the upgraded dash. Also these earlier cars were made totally by the "MG Car Company" and not the dreaded British Leyland (even though Leyland ones were made, I think, in the same Abingdon factory, the quality control went downhill).
-MAS
The main issue with these cars is RUST!!!
I had a 68 MGBGT and it was a great car (aside from rust problems). The engine had been rebuilt and was reasonably powerful. The car's handling was very good... and I had zero problems with the electrics.
The bottom line is that ALL of these cars will (and did) rust. Unless you are going to keep it in a heated garage all its life.
I suggest finding a 69 (roadster or GT) with minimal rust. And then doing a restoration. The engine and trans are cheaper to rebuild fix than a poor body. The 69's are good cars, because they had all of the classic early MG goodies, but they had the upgraded dash. Also these earlier cars were made totally by the "MG Car Company" and not the dreaded British Leyland (even though Leyland ones were made, I think, in the same Abingdon factory, the quality control went downhill).
-MAS
#9
You can't go wrong with an MGB. They are actually pretty well made cars. I have a '65 MGB, its been reliable, the electrics have never been an issue, however rust was. Parts are readily available, everything from minor items such as switches to a fully galvanized body shell made from the original factory tooling. This was in the 6K price range. I did not go this route, I replaced the inner and outer rocker panels on my car ($130 a side, factory parts).If you are used to some of the outrageous parts prices for your Porsche, you will be pleasantly surprised when it comes to 'B' parts.
If you want more horsepower that is available as well, Moss motors sells a reasonably priced super charger kit. If I want to go fast, then I will drive either my '69 911E, or my '86 944 Turbo.
I have also owned a number of Triumphs, TR4A's. These cars are nice to look at, but the reality is that they are not screwed together as well as 'B'.
They are also body on frame, the frame was not very rigid even when new, and they tend to rust badly (at least here in the Northeast) talk about scuttle shake! The 'B' is a unibody car so it is a little more modern in its construction, but it too is prone to rust. But then again what mid sixties car was'nt? However either of these cars have pretty robust engines, the cost of a rebuild, if done your self should be less than 2K.
Check out the Moss Motors web site. This will give you some idea of parts avail ability and cost.
If you want more horsepower that is available as well, Moss motors sells a reasonably priced super charger kit. If I want to go fast, then I will drive either my '69 911E, or my '86 944 Turbo.
I have also owned a number of Triumphs, TR4A's. These cars are nice to look at, but the reality is that they are not screwed together as well as 'B'.
They are also body on frame, the frame was not very rigid even when new, and they tend to rust badly (at least here in the Northeast) talk about scuttle shake! The 'B' is a unibody car so it is a little more modern in its construction, but it too is prone to rust. But then again what mid sixties car was'nt? However either of these cars have pretty robust engines, the cost of a rebuild, if done your self should be less than 2K.
Check out the Moss Motors web site. This will give you some idea of parts avail ability and cost.
#10
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Bought a 1974 MGB/GT for project restoration from a shop. Some work was already started mostly on the body. As many have warned you here these cars suffer from major rust. On second look I realized the body work on the MG would require strip down to bare metal. Not being a body man I decided to ditch it for another in better condition. I searched in vain as one candidate after another had about as much rust if not worse. Those that were in nice condition were priced at a cost which can bring you a 951. So yes parts for the MG are cheaper but they require much more work than a 944. In the end you'll end up with a rather primitive, under powered scooter on four wheels. On the other hand the MG is a charming convertible which can be fun to drive on narrow back roads. And they are great ornaments in your drive way
#11
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I had a '76 MG Midget when I was in high school. I have to agree w/ the previous comment about rust being a big problem. My car had that flintstones thing going on by the time I started restoring it. Parts were exceptionally cheap and it was a fun car ... when it ran. My parents made me get it out of their garage about halfway through restoration ... lost my a$$ selling the car off. Oh well.
#12
I've had Austin-Healey Sprites and a number of Triumph's over the years. They're simple to work on and fun, and I agree with all the comments above. Have you condsidered a Mazda Miata? I've never driven one, but it's supposed to be a copy of the MGB with 90's design and Japanese reliability. All it lacks is the "character" of the original, i.e. it starts every time and dosn't leak oil. Just a thought.
#13
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Check out this MG site, this guys has everything! www.theautoist.com
I am currently 'restoring' a 72 B. I say that loosely as it's been in pieces in my garage for over a year now.
I am currently 'restoring' a 72 B. I say that loosely as it's been in pieces in my garage for over a year now.
#14
I used to work with a guy who was a factory Leland mechanic.(MG and Lotus) He is located in Marietta. (E Radatz Motorsports 770-926-6609) He also works on Nissan Z Cars as well. He is fair and knows ALOT of people in the Leland community in Atlanta.
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Alex,
Brit cars are great.
Prices for a good MGB are rising rapidly, I am finding that they are in line- with that of a TR6.
With prices being equal, it comes down to matter of taste and use.
TR6 has a sweet in-line 6, however, they are a bit heavier than an MGB. MGBs can be made to handle like they are on rails, that is their strongest asset. Both motors are rock-solid cast iron.
I race an EP MGB in SCCA...Kickin it old school. EP is tough, have 914-6, early 911, and 944 in same class, not to mention trick Miatas, RX7, TR6, TR4 and 240z. My motor cannot make the same power as these other cars, and have to use handling as my main weapon. My car is also still utilizing the lever shocks!
One more thing, whatever you choose, I would look for a pre-smog equipped car (pre- 1974 1/2), especially if you want to modify and tune
Good Luck
-Mike
Brit cars are great.
Prices for a good MGB are rising rapidly, I am finding that they are in line- with that of a TR6.
With prices being equal, it comes down to matter of taste and use.
TR6 has a sweet in-line 6, however, they are a bit heavier than an MGB. MGBs can be made to handle like they are on rails, that is their strongest asset. Both motors are rock-solid cast iron.
I race an EP MGB in SCCA...Kickin it old school. EP is tough, have 914-6, early 911, and 944 in same class, not to mention trick Miatas, RX7, TR6, TR4 and 240z. My motor cannot make the same power as these other cars, and have to use handling as my main weapon. My car is also still utilizing the lever shocks!
One more thing, whatever you choose, I would look for a pre-smog equipped car (pre- 1974 1/2), especially if you want to modify and tune
Good Luck
-Mike