Otto Mechanic

Thanks, when you told me you used an Allen wrench I figured you had the Arms (and grip) of Samson himself. The longest 6mm allen I had was *maybe* 4 inches and I could have seriously hurt myself leaning on it with enough force to bust that nut loose; seriously, it was in there.

The sensor was out and so was the holder that has that mysterious "shield" that Arominus describes as a noise reducer on the sender (sensor), but it still hung. I'm pretty sure it needs to be removed all the time. I personally fought with it for a good hour with two breaks for beer

Thanks for your help. We all learned something it seems, even the masters?

I just love this list. Really. No Joke. Best thing that happened to me since I met my wife.

Otto Mechanic

Just to assert personal pride, I believe use of the gear wrench as opposed to a 1/4" flex head has two advantages:

1) It's longer. My 1/4" ratchet is only 6" long. And that's generous.
2) It's stronger. My 1/4" universal is "classic" (you know, not the ball type) and I broke one trying to get that bolt out.

Just sayin'. It could (and obviously can) work. But this technique belongs to me. So there you go. I thought I did good.

Maybe I won't go down in the history of genius 944 tool designers. but I got leverage.

You still have my thanks and my best regards.

Otto Mechanic

Followup: Excellent advice! Worked like a charm on two bolts so far. The correct size for the 6mm Allen bolts in my car is a T-45. Unfortunately mine are 3/8" drive impact sockets, but my impact wrench (pneumatic) is half inch so I had to use a C clamp to hold the flywheel (Clark's garage suggestion), but it still works using a long handled torque wrench.

Since I've now stripped two out of three bolts using the 6mm Allen socket I think I'll just cut to the chase and hammer in the T-45 before I bother striping the bolts. I planned to replace them all anyway so I have a full set on hand.

Otto Mechanic

I was thinking I could really use a flywheel lock for this job, then realized I was removing the flywheel...

Otto Mechanic

So for anyone following the later off topic part of this, the advice in Clark's writeup on avoiding use of an impact tool to remove the pressure plate bolts because it's easier to strip them is incorrect in my experience; it's the only way to avoid striping them and I believe if I'd started with an impact driver I wouldn't have lost three out of the first four I removed. I switched to a Lisle impact driver (the kind you take to the junkyard along with a 3Lb. sledge) and it works flawlessly, even with the Allen socket. It's work throwing the sledge around and you need to take breaks, but the rest of the bolts came out with no damage at all.

Maybe he meant an air impact wrench?

Oh, and you don't need to worry about locking the flywheel!

1933beer

otto thanks for documenting
I just read the thread . I have a S2 and will some day have to change the clutch. ( not looking forward to it) These differences are good to know now not when I'm into the project and frustrated.

Otto Mechanic

Thanks for reading. I really don't care much for Porsche manuals, if it weren't for sources like Rennlist and Clark's Garage just to name a few, I'd never be able to do something like this. There aren't many things in the clutch replacement that are really hard, it's just more work than you might expect if you haven't done one on a rear transmission car. I did an Audi clutch replacement last year and it took about three days, I've been working on this one at least twice as long, and the Audi manuals are a lot better in my opinion.

FRporscheman

I've found that using high quality hex bits (aka allens), torx bits, and especially triple square bits (aka XZN, aka cheesehead), is absolutely crucial. My Kragen brand triple square bits would strip bolt heads most of the time. I hated triple square bolts. Then I coughed up for a set of Stahlwille bits and I've never stripped one since.

Also, do not be limited by the length of your allen wrench, ratchet handle, etc. Buy a few steel pipes of various diameter and various lengths - they make excellent cheater bars. When I was opening the allen bolts on the speed/ref sensor bracket, I was using an allen wrench + pipe, with a total length of about 7-8 inches.

Otto Mechanic

Everyone knows about the legendary quality of Snap-On, but I've been having good luck with Teckton, mostly their impact rated tools, also Sunex. I agree, a good collection of old pipe scraps is pretty important, luckily I did all the water and gas plumbing on my place about 20 years ago and I still have a pile of them behind the barn...

FRporscheman

Snap-on, or as I like to call it, Rip-off, are definitely top quality, world-class tools, but they're as expensive as imported Stahlwille and Hazet, which doesn't make sense. I do have a few SO tools but more Stahlwille and Hazet. Don't get me started on tools...

Funny that you feel that way about the manuals. I think the Porsche manuals are good and the Audi manuals (at least, the B3/B4 and C5) are atrocious.

Otto Mechanic

My experience is skewed, I use late 90's Audi manuals and 70's-80's Porsche, which is probably the reason. I've had as many "procedural" issues with Audi manuals as I have with Porsche, but Audi took to using line drawn graphics in the 90's where the older Porsche manuals use photos and more than half the time I can't figure out what the subjects of the photos are. Then again I don't have anything good to say about Audi's "Elsawin" manual software. Mostly I guess I grouse about both depending on which one I'm using at the time

Otto Mechanic

Just as an aside, the warning against using impact tools on the CV joints and it's rebuttal extends to the pressure plate and flywheel bolts; have no fear of using impact tools on these parts. They work fine. In my example I used 1/2" impact triple square sockets with a Chicago Pneumatics wrench on the flywheel and a manual 3/8" impact driver on the pressure plate and CV joints with a far higher degree of success than a manual torque wrench and some cobbled up holding scheme involving C clamps and vice grips. My guess is I could have used the Chicago Pneumatics wrench on all of those parts and saved at least two hours work and a severe pain in my right shoulder.

I admire Clark for contributing time and ongoing expense to maintain his website, but honestly can't support the guidance that impact tools are unsafe or not recommended in this application.

FRporscheman

Well it's safer to tell readers (who may be inexperienced or inept) not to use an impact gun.

You can "sign the waiver" and do whatever you want, just remember to wear goggles / have a spotter / don't forget the safety word.

Otto Mechanic

"OH ****!" is the one I use

Otto Mechanic

Of course, the truth is I'd like nothing better than to get you started on tools. I'm a tool guy, I spent a very long time building industrial tools and it's sort of an obsession of mine...