CV joint: rotate during service?
02-21-2015, 09:23 AM
#16
Rennlist Member
If the a clamp is the type that has the little square holes in it, there is a clamping tool that you can rent form AutoZone for little $$ and get a refund on it when you bring it back...kinda cheesy but it works..at least on US style CV clamps...they also have C-V grease and some adjustable bands that may work for you..jus sayin..might be worthwhile so check it out...They also have reman C-V axles available...
Tiger 03447
Tiger 03447
02-21-2015, 11:44 AM
#17
The real part numbers for MY boot clamps is 911 332 257 00 on the big end which is about 70mm. I just reused them. They have sexy dimples. Rolled the tang in some needle nose pliers to tighten it then tapped it down...should get another 23 years out of it.
928 332 257 01 for the small but mine had cable ties...not to be politically correct but they did not leak so I deemed them sufficient.
928 332 257 01 for the small but mine had cable ties...not to be politically correct but they did not leak so I deemed them sufficient.
02-23-2015, 10:58 AM
#18
For what it's worth, saw Edd on "Wheeler Dealers" advise to install axles as removed. Seems the normal torsional twisting that has occurred in the axle shaft doesn't like being reversed and is more prone to stress failure if reversed.
03-09-2015, 09:18 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Opinion please
The attached picture is from the drivers side axle. After watching the video you pointed me too (thanks very much BTW) I believe this is an example of an unusable part. The video talks about rotating the joints if they show fatigue on one side or the other, but this one is dead in the middle.
Chuck it?
03-09-2015, 10:10 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
It's not about if the wear is in the middle of the face -it's about WHICH face its on.
Think about it... The outer ring turns by the transmission output flange... Which is, of course, turned by the engine.
When you drive forward, that outer ring will push against a ball which will push against a face on the inner spider. That spider will turn the axle which will turn the out-board inner spider, which will push against a ball, which will push against a face on the outer ring, which is bolted to the stub axle, which is splined to the wheel hub, which has the wheel studs.
If you've followed all of that, you'll realize that if you drive in reverse, the ***** will push on the opposite faces of each respective part.
By flipping the axles, you can make it so the faces that normally see load in forward driving will now see load in backwards driving.
Now, having said all that, I'd just buy a new joint from paragon for $90.
Think about it... The outer ring turns by the transmission output flange... Which is, of course, turned by the engine.
When you drive forward, that outer ring will push against a ball which will push against a face on the inner spider. That spider will turn the axle which will turn the out-board inner spider, which will push against a ball, which will push against a face on the outer ring, which is bolted to the stub axle, which is splined to the wheel hub, which has the wheel studs.
If you've followed all of that, you'll realize that if you drive in reverse, the ***** will push on the opposite faces of each respective part.
By flipping the axles, you can make it so the faces that normally see load in forward driving will now see load in backwards driving.
Now, having said all that, I'd just buy a new joint from paragon for $90.
03-09-2015, 10:11 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
03-09-2015, 10:48 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Van -
Thanks, I did follow that. It also follows that if both the inner and outer joints suffer the same effective load the order they go back on the axle is unimportant; It's the side of the car that matters?
I'm two for two so far, both driver's side axle CV's are showing the same fatigue pattern. Spending $90 for one is of course not a big problem, but if all four have this wear pattern and they're reusable if swapped side to side, I may consider doing it. Near as I can tell, these joints have 125,000 miles on them. If swapping gets me another 50,000, it might be worth it. It's not all that hard to drop the half axles?
Thanks, I did follow that. It also follows that if both the inner and outer joints suffer the same effective load the order they go back on the axle is unimportant; It's the side of the car that matters?
I'm two for two so far, both driver's side axle CV's are showing the same fatigue pattern. Spending $90 for one is of course not a big problem, but if all four have this wear pattern and they're reusable if swapped side to side, I may consider doing it. Near as I can tell, these joints have 125,000 miles on them. If swapping gets me another 50,000, it might be worth it. It's not all that hard to drop the half axles?
03-10-2015, 12:59 AM
#24
Rennlist Member
Van -
Thanks, I did follow that. It also follows that if both the inner and outer joints suffer the same effective load the order they go back on the axle is unimportant; It's the side of the car that matters?
I'm two for two so far, both driver's side axle CV's are showing the same fatigue pattern. Spending $90 for one is of course not a big problem, but if all four have this wear pattern and they're reusable if swapped side to side, I may consider doing it. Near as I can tell, these joints have 125,000 miles on them. If swapping gets me another 50,000, it might be worth it. It's not all that hard to drop the half axles?
Thanks, I did follow that. It also follows that if both the inner and outer joints suffer the same effective load the order they go back on the axle is unimportant; It's the side of the car that matters?
I'm two for two so far, both driver's side axle CV's are showing the same fatigue pattern. Spending $90 for one is of course not a big problem, but if all four have this wear pattern and they're reusable if swapped side to side, I may consider doing it. Near as I can tell, these joints have 125,000 miles on them. If swapping gets me another 50,000, it might be worth it. It's not all that hard to drop the half axles?
I'd say that CV joint should last 50-75k miles - maybe a little later, but rarely on the side next to the exhaust... I think flipping them will buy you 5-10 k miles - e.g. a few months, not a decade.
Consumables are like laundry... sometimes you just have to change stuff! Flipping the CV joints is like wearing the dirty underwear inside out... It works, but you don't want to do it for long.
03-10-2015, 01:15 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
Correct. Unless the axles have plastically deformed (which they haven't, or you would know it), this is not the case.
The only factor at play with respect the shafts it fatigue related failure. The average endurance limit (10^6 cycles and above) for steel is 690 MPa, which is well beyond the ultimate strength of the axle shafts. The knuckles will always die first.
The only factor at play with respect the shafts it fatigue related failure. The average endurance limit (10^6 cycles and above) for steel is 690 MPa, which is well beyond the ultimate strength of the axle shafts. The knuckles will always die first.
03-10-2015, 01:48 AM
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hold the joints in your hands and see how they'll load up when they rotate. You can move the joints from side-to-side and "flip them"
I'd say that CV joint should last 50-75k miles - maybe a little later, but rarely on the side next to the exhaust... I think flipping them will buy you 5-10 k miles - e.g. a few months, not a decade.
Consumables are like laundry... sometimes you just have to change stuff! Flipping the CV joints is like wearing the dirty underwear inside out... It works, but you don't want to do it for long.
I'd say that CV joint should last 50-75k miles - maybe a little later, but rarely on the side next to the exhaust... I think flipping them will buy you 5-10 k miles - e.g. a few months, not a decade.
Consumables are like laundry... sometimes you just have to change stuff! Flipping the CV joints is like wearing the dirty underwear inside out... It works, but you don't want to do it for long.
Thanks.
03-10-2015, 08:31 AM
#27
Three Wheelin'
Cheers,
Mike
03-10-2015, 01:11 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
That would mean when swapping CV joints side to side, the inner goes on the outside and vice verse to prevent changing the torsional stress on the axle. It also means paying attention to which end was on the inside/outside when removing and re-installing, something the manuals don't mention.
03-10-2015, 04:09 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
Clamps on the boot on the half shaft? A cable tie works fine. For bonus points, cut an aerosol can "straw" to about quarter length and insert in under the lip to vent the boot.
03-10-2015, 04:20 PM
#30
Three Wheelin'