Timing Belt is fine, Balance is shot. won't turn over
#17
Drifting
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Originally posted by SoCal Driver
I've kept one of my two broken belts and it looks new except where it broke.
I've kept one of my two broken belts and it looks new except where it broke.
I am curious since I can't decided whether I should change my belts at the recommended 45,000, or some shorter interval.
#18
Nerd Herder
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My belts were at least 4 years / 35K miles - I was driving it daily 40 miles a day except for the last year and a half, Now I put a LOT of miles on weekly. When the old belts came off they looked used- but not bad. a 90 degree twist showed a lot of brittle rubber. Very scary.
30K miles/ 3 years for me. no more. It's too cheap to replace the belts and too expensive for valves!!
30K miles/ 3 years for me. no more. It's too cheap to replace the belts and too expensive for valves!!
#19
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Originally posted by SoCal Driver
You are saying that the spring tensioner does not keep spring pressure against the belt?
Hmm... Not having one in front of me I would think the idea of an auto tensioner is just that; to keep the belt tensioned. Guess I'll have to check the manuals.
Either way I bet his valves are more than likely toast along with a few valve seats.
You are saying that the spring tensioner does not keep spring pressure against the belt?
Hmm... Not having one in front of me I would think the idea of an auto tensioner is just that; to keep the belt tensioned. Guess I'll have to check the manuals.
Either way I bet his valves are more than likely toast along with a few valve seats.
I thought you had a 86 engine doesn't that year come with the auto tensioner? Or did they start with the 87?
#20
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I am almost sure the auto tensioner came with the 87s for the first time. I had mine changed and then drove the car for 4 years and about 40K, still looked fine when I changed it. However, bent valves are never good. I am doing the one in my Turbo before it goes anywhere and I will check it in about a year.
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#21
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Well here's a small development. I pulled the spark plug wires to find that there is oil in the bottom of the number one (farthest from the fire wall) plug recess. I am assuming that the plug is loose because of this, but can't be sure because I do not have a plug socket that fits. anyway, that explains the crappy power, but not the fact that the engine won't turn over. does this change anything?
#22
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That could be just a failed o-ring on the valve cover, and totally unrelated to what you are dealing with. Then again, maybe not (but for your sake, we certainly hope not!).
You car just quit running, right? Did you check the DME relay and speend sensors? Just asking...
Regards,
You car just quit running, right? Did you check the DME relay and speend sensors? Just asking...
Regards,
#24
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Dylan, put your car year and type in your signiture line in your personal profile area. Does help tp remind us which car you have with out having to go to the first message.
Service manuals do help. Sometimes a bit vague.
Service manuals do help. Sometimes a bit vague.
#25
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Pull all the spark plugs and try to turn the motor. That will tell you something about hydrolock or not. Also I had an engine (pontiac) that had a spun rod bearing. It would turn about 1/4 turn before the spun bearing would jam and stop the motor. I could turn it backwards the 1/4 turn and the bearing would jam that way. See if yours does this. Could also be the timing chain and if it hasnt broken the head already then you dont want to force the engine around and break the chain and the head. Its easy to get the valve cover off to see the timing chain(work the valve cover bolts slow and easy, they could snap in half because of their stange design).