Still confused after reading all the Sunroof Write-ups – Long Post
08-09-2003, 10:19 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Still confused after reading all the Sunroof Write-ups – Long Post
Still confused after reading all the Sunroof Write-ups? Don’t’ want to convert to Sid’s manual sunroof?
Well, after stripping the first pair of new spares I had, I ordered SIX more from Paragon and started really reading up on the repairs.
The best article I read was at http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...44_sunroof.htm but it’s all a bit confusing until you get in there.
Well here’s a low down and maybe this will save some headaches.
1. From what I can tell, after looking at the “old” style mechanism and then the “post 86” style, both units seem to have similar problems.
2. All the articles talk about limit switch adjustment, cams, levers, etc. possibly going out of adjustment with time, but the real culprit appears to be the SLIP CLUTCH that is common to both systems.
3. From what I can deduce, there’s an easy way to narrow down the source of the problem.
a. Carefully depress the switch to take the roof OFF the car (key position #1 on post 86 cars).
b. Get into the back seat (parking brake on and out of gear!) Then switch the ignition to position #2 to operate the TILT mechanism while DEPRESSING THE CENTER SWITCH ABOVE THE MIRROR – where the “tab” on the roof panel usually presses on a hidden switch. If the gears are not badly stripped, you can either see the arms moving in / out or at least hear the drive mechanism run to the limits and stop.
c. If the motor just keeps running, then the limit switch (one is for roof UP) the other for roof (locked closed) is out of adjustment.
4. If the roof arm (one or both) operate normally, then it’s probably the SLIP CLUTCH is out of adjustment. The slip clutch really only comes into play when you depress the console switch to REMOVE the roof panel. What happens is that the arms travel back farther than in “tilt” mode until they are flush with the little gearbox.
a. The operating logic is that the arms move back into the gearbox and the Slip Clutch is supposed to “limit” any further movement! There is no “limit switch” to stop the arms – the system depends on the slip clutch, and if that fails then the PLASTIC GEARS to strip!
In any event, you will have to get into the headliner to change those PLASTIC GEARS. Instead of removing the headliner however, all you really need to do is to remove the PANEL that covers the drive mechanism. Then instead of taking off the trim etc (it’s glued on, and I hate having to re-stretch and try to get it all to fit without wrinkling) – just use scissors and cut an “L” to expose the gearbox and tuck the material back underneath. When you replace the rigid panel, it all gets hidden anyway!
In the “tilt” mode, the aluminum raising arms on my car showed about 3 gear teeth clear of the gearbox. That way it engaged the roof panel receptacle almost perfectly to bring the panel flush with the roof.
The trickiest part is adjusting the SLIP CLUTCH torque – the manual calls for 6Nm +/- ½ but that is so low you might as well guess at a setting that just raises and lowers the roof to lock it down plus a smidgen more. Anything more and the plastic gears are going to take a beating when you retract the arms for “panel removal” mode.
BTW, the 13mm locking nut to adjust the torque setting on the SLIP CLUTCH is very thin – too slim for normal wrenches. Bike tools should fit. In any event, back it off a bit to save those gears!
Hope this helps!
Well, after stripping the first pair of new spares I had, I ordered SIX more from Paragon and started really reading up on the repairs.
The best article I read was at http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...44_sunroof.htm but it’s all a bit confusing until you get in there.
Well here’s a low down and maybe this will save some headaches.
1. From what I can tell, after looking at the “old” style mechanism and then the “post 86” style, both units seem to have similar problems.
2. All the articles talk about limit switch adjustment, cams, levers, etc. possibly going out of adjustment with time, but the real culprit appears to be the SLIP CLUTCH that is common to both systems.
3. From what I can deduce, there’s an easy way to narrow down the source of the problem.
a. Carefully depress the switch to take the roof OFF the car (key position #1 on post 86 cars).
b. Get into the back seat (parking brake on and out of gear!) Then switch the ignition to position #2 to operate the TILT mechanism while DEPRESSING THE CENTER SWITCH ABOVE THE MIRROR – where the “tab” on the roof panel usually presses on a hidden switch. If the gears are not badly stripped, you can either see the arms moving in / out or at least hear the drive mechanism run to the limits and stop.
c. If the motor just keeps running, then the limit switch (one is for roof UP) the other for roof (locked closed) is out of adjustment.
4. If the roof arm (one or both) operate normally, then it’s probably the SLIP CLUTCH is out of adjustment. The slip clutch really only comes into play when you depress the console switch to REMOVE the roof panel. What happens is that the arms travel back farther than in “tilt” mode until they are flush with the little gearbox.
a. The operating logic is that the arms move back into the gearbox and the Slip Clutch is supposed to “limit” any further movement! There is no “limit switch” to stop the arms – the system depends on the slip clutch, and if that fails then the PLASTIC GEARS to strip!
In any event, you will have to get into the headliner to change those PLASTIC GEARS. Instead of removing the headliner however, all you really need to do is to remove the PANEL that covers the drive mechanism. Then instead of taking off the trim etc (it’s glued on, and I hate having to re-stretch and try to get it all to fit without wrinkling) – just use scissors and cut an “L” to expose the gearbox and tuck the material back underneath. When you replace the rigid panel, it all gets hidden anyway!
In the “tilt” mode, the aluminum raising arms on my car showed about 3 gear teeth clear of the gearbox. That way it engaged the roof panel receptacle almost perfectly to bring the panel flush with the roof.
The trickiest part is adjusting the SLIP CLUTCH torque – the manual calls for 6Nm +/- ½ but that is so low you might as well guess at a setting that just raises and lowers the roof to lock it down plus a smidgen more. Anything more and the plastic gears are going to take a beating when you retract the arms for “panel removal” mode.
BTW, the 13mm locking nut to adjust the torque setting on the SLIP CLUTCH is very thin – too slim for normal wrenches. Bike tools should fit. In any event, back it off a bit to save those gears!
Hope this helps!
08-23-2004, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Randy_J
BTW, the 13mm locking nut to adjust the torque setting on the SLIP CLUTCH is very thin – too slim for normal wrenches.
I lowered the torque too much and now I can't get it back up because my wrenches are too fat. I tried every other tool in my toolbox to counterhold, but nothing worked! Time to expand it I guess...
