Shaking on hard acceleration
#17
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I am just running stock size, 215/60-15 and about 29 front with 30 rear.
When I checked I was down about 4 lbs in one tire and about 3 in another(can't remember which tire it is since it was months ago).
Guess it was enough to cause the shake when accelorating because when I got them all at the right pressure the shake was gone.
- no jokes about where the fries are!
When I checked I was down about 4 lbs in one tire and about 3 in another(can't remember which tire it is since it was months ago).
Guess it was enough to cause the shake when accelorating because when I got them all at the right pressure the shake was gone.
- no jokes about where the fries are!
#18
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Ok, have to check the tires, that would be a surprisingly easy solution ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I'm quite sure the right side axle isn't the reason in my car, as it's brand new ... maybe 3000 miles on it now
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I'm quite sure the right side axle isn't the reason in my car, as it's brand new ... maybe 3000 miles on it now
#19
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I would second and third the advice to look at the CV joints (assuming tire air pressure isn't the issue, that is).
I had a similar vibration that only appeared under hard acceleration, and when I swapped the axles from side to side, the problem disappeared. If nothing else, it's a good preventive maintenance project that will get you some additional life out of the CV joints.
Ron
I had a similar vibration that only appeared under hard acceleration, and when I swapped the axles from side to side, the problem disappeared. If nothing else, it's a good preventive maintenance project that will get you some additional life out of the CV joints.
Ron
#20
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I will "fourth" the cv axle suggestion. I was "sure" my axles were fine, so I swapped out my tranny mount, which was in surprisingly good condition when I got the original out (with 150k miles on it). When that didn't take care of the problem, which was exactly like you guys are describing, I bit the bullet and bought two new half shafts. Problem solved.
Regards,
Regards,
#22
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Just a thought, but this reminds me of "wheel hop" live axle cars suffer from. My first car was a 2nd generation camaro, without the right rear slipping the car would still shake because of the forces between the tire and suspension (if you call that a suspension). Probably a different issue in the 951 though...
#23
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I asked my mech about this last night. He didn't hesitate and said "CV's"! I'm gonna try to swap sides today but I gotta put a ball joint in the truck first. We'll see if I have any time.......
#24
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OK......
Swapped axles yesterday.....
Vibration gone today.............
Car drives schweeeeet..........
Clacking noise........................
New CV's on order.................
YMMV......
Swapped axles yesterday.....
Vibration gone today.............
Car drives schweeeeet..........
Clacking noise........................
New CV's on order.................
YMMV......
#26
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i HAD A VERY SIMILAR PROBLEM, IN MY CASE IT TURNED OUT TO BE cv joints. The rear end of the car would squirm under accel. You could try running them in the reversed direction, see if that makes any difference, it should at least put the pressure on an unworn surface.
#27
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Another vote for CV joints.
Why? Because my tranny mount was new, clutch and flywheel new, wheel bearings new, torque tube checked fine, tires balanced, and I inspected, repacked, and flipped my seemingly ok axles.
My 1st few on boost runs after the rebuild produced the same shimmy I had before it caught fire. I bucked up and got new OEM axles... and she's smooth as a Cadillac.
Why? Because my tranny mount was new, clutch and flywheel new, wheel bearings new, torque tube checked fine, tires balanced, and I inspected, repacked, and flipped my seemingly ok axles.
My 1st few on boost runs after the rebuild produced the same shimmy I had before it caught fire. I bucked up and got new OEM axles... and she's smooth as a Cadillac.
#29
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ball joints will make HORRID vibrations in the steering wheel/front end upon turning hard enough above 35-40 mph, around 45 degrees or more turn of the steering wheel. whatever side you put weight on when you get em will be the side thats bad. do both at once if you replace, its the smart thing to do.