bellhousing ground strap bolt?
#1
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Location: Vienna, VA
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bellhousing ground strap bolt?
On an 86 951, what size hex bolt is holding the negative ground to the bellhousing? It's enough of a tight fit down there that I don't want to do trial-and-error and end up losing a socket or something. Anyone that's replaced the ground strap remember the size?
TIA
TIA
#2
10MM socket on a LONG extension, even better with a wobble drive extension. Easy access IF you undo the heater hose that is on top of the nut - otherwise, nearly impossible to reach.
BTW, make sure you DUCT TAPE the clutch inspection hole before you do anything! Read recent posts of what happens when you drop that hut / socket / anything down that hole... hint, clutch job without replacing the clutch (say 17+ hours!) So TAPE THAT HOLE CLOSED BEFORE YOU START!!
I just installed the Iceshark ground straps last week. Lucky I did not drop anything, but I did forget the duct tape until I read someone elses misfortune!
BTW, make sure you DUCT TAPE the clutch inspection hole before you do anything! Read recent posts of what happens when you drop that hut / socket / anything down that hole... hint, clutch job without replacing the clutch (say 17+ hours!) So TAPE THAT HOLE CLOSED BEFORE YOU START!!
I just installed the Iceshark ground straps last week. Lucky I did not drop anything, but I did forget the duct tape until I read someone elses misfortune!
#3
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Which 'hose' are you referring to? There's one right above the bolt that looks like it goes from the block to some little plastic piece near the firewall, and it certainly is doing a good job of being in the way. Is that the one you're referring to? My only concern is removing it is going to 1) spill coolant and 2) require me to bleed the coolant system. Is this the case, or am I being to paranoid?
#4
Nordschleife Master
zaak, yeah, you are looking at the hose that needs to be pulled apart and moved out of the way. it is the heater inlet hose and you will spill coolant and have to refill and bleed system. There is no way around removing it unless you hang a well trained 2 year old with tiny hands over your motor to get down to the bolt or nut, depending on your model car. Tape off the bellhousing inspection hole before you do this so you don't spill coolant down it. The coolant can wash off grease and corrode the bearing surfaces and then your clutch won't release all the way and you won't be able to shift.
I believe you will find that the head on your nut or bolt will be 13mm, so that is the socket to use. Put some heavy grease in the socket to keep the nut or bolt sticking to the socket when you pull it out.
I believe you will find that the head on your nut or bolt will be 13mm, so that is the socket to use. Put some heavy grease in the socket to keep the nut or bolt sticking to the socket when you pull it out.
#6
Originally posted by Randy_J
hint, clutch job without replacing the clutch (say 17+ hours!) So TAPE THAT HOLE CLOSED BEFORE YOU START!!
hint, clutch job without replacing the clutch (say 17+ hours!) So TAPE THAT HOLE CLOSED BEFORE YOU START!!
actually with 4 people you can get the whole clutch job without a clutch replacement done in under 7 hours. but yeah not worth the hassle.