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Repacking CV joints to buy time?

Old 11-22-2013, 08:52 PM
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bonus12
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Got the pm, thanks!


I was just trying to pull the boot back so I could inject some grease, but it was on there pretty good. couldn't get it off. i didn't want to pry it with a tool because i thought i might tear the boot. Any tips? I am going to try again tomorrow. Thanks RL.
Old 11-22-2013, 09:24 PM
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KuHL 951
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Originally Posted by bonus12
Wow, haha, I might try that because it's so easy. Mine's a 951, too, so I could hope for similar results! My cv joints might just be dry, after all.

You just pulled the boot back and pushed grease in all over the joint? You weren't worried about putting in too much?

I would dare to try this so any more info would be nice. Thanks, KuHL.
Sorry for the delayed answer. I just injected the marinade needle right through the boot by feeling around for the cage. I figured it would probably throw a little grease but the rubber closed up the injection site pretty tight. I think I used at least 1/2-3/4 of a 10 oz squeeze tube (Moly CV grease from NAPA) for the inboard drivers side boot. If I would have needed to pull the boot back I would have just waited until I got back home and bought new complete axles. Rebuilding CV's is about as fun as grooming badgers. Flipping them 180 was another option at the time but involved a lot more work, especially since I was on vacation.
Old 11-22-2013, 09:56 PM
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Thanks, KuHl.

I guess I have a lot of questions, but is a non-moly grease okay? O'Reilly's didn't have hi-temp grease with moly, so i went with some lithium stuff, pictured. The stuff with moly didn't say it was hi-temp. Clark's suggests a moly-based grease. I think moly is usually suspended in lithium, anyway. Thoughts? is the stuff I bought any good? I don't want to take any shortcuts, so any help is always appreciated.


It has no moly, but it's hi-temp, hi-pressure.

Last edited by bonus12; 11-22-2013 at 10:30 PM.
Old 11-22-2013, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bonus12
Thanks, KuHl.

I guess I have a lot of questions, but is a non-moly grease okay? O'Reilly's didn't have hi-temp grease with moly, so i went with some lithium stuff, pictured. The stuff with moly didn't say it was hi-temp. Clark's suggests a moly-based grease. I think moly is usually suspended in lithium, anyway. Thoughts? is the stuff I bought any good? I don't want to take any shortcuts, so any help is always appreciated.


It has no moly, but it's hi-temp, hi-pressure.
Not to be preachy but you are already taking 'shortcuts' with this temporary fix aren't you? I would never use any grease not formulated for CV's. All CV grease has added Moly. CV's are a very demanding component as far as lubrication goes. CV grease should be readily available at any good auto supply such as NAPA. You DO NOT want to cheap out and use the wrong type and have it flung into the boot the first time it heats up. Redline also makes a very good CV lube but it's carried mostly online or at better speed shops. Good luck with whatever method you choose.
Old 11-23-2013, 09:53 PM
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One of my CVs starting clicking about 2 winters ago and I didnt want to do work in the cold. To buy some time I cut a small slit in the cv boot and used a grease gun with a needle tip to put grease into the cv. That was about 15k ago and the noise hasnt returned. I know it is not the proper was to do it but it worked for me.
Old 11-24-2013, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by szabon
Yes, flip the cv around. I repacked my cv, and you could easily see where the ball joint was sticking, as it was pretty deep, so I bought a new one to replace it, and in the meantime flipped the cv joint so I could drive it. Then the new one got in, and I figured I would just see how long it will last with it flipped before I put the new one in there. That was about 2 oil changes ago, so 6k miles, and no issues. Definitely agree on rotating the cv joint to squeeze some life out of them.
Well, unless you've done many thousands of miles of driving in reverse, it's pretty hard to see how the ball cages would be worn on the reverse side.

The ***** themselves may need replacing, and/or the boots and grease, but on replacing those, and reversing the axles, it seems to me you'd have virtually new equipment. That fits your car, for sure. OEM quality. Real cheap.


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