Temperature creep at idle.
08-16-2019, 10:58 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
From what you described there would be several things that I would check. Sound like the cooling system is not "Efficient".
1) Thermostat, I almost always throw them on the stove in a pot of water and heat it up to see if they operate as described before I put them in.. I HATE that snap ring. Allot of PITA to have a bad one.. . I never re-install the rubber seal around the T-stat.. So what if a little coolant leaks by? It purges the system better and I never drive my car when it is cold out anyhow..
2) Belt, take the top cover off the Engine and see how tight the belt is that drives the WP Its possible that on low RPM combined with minimal air through the rad its not moving enough fluid.
3) Rad Efficiency, Id Pop the Rad out and Shake out all the 30 years of crap out of the fins (The External Fins that have bugs and road crap in them) that is making it in-efficient Ive found that just laying the Rad Flat on the floor (Front face down) and shaking, lightly (banging) it on the ground will shake out a TON of crap... you will be surprised.
4) Confirm actual engine temp as it corresponds to the Gauge, The sensor is just a resistor or Technically a Thermistor, Any "Additions resistance in the wiring (Crimps) or stake on connections will change the reading on the gauge.
And if all else fails, Run to the Depot and get an IR Temp Gun, See what temp the water is going into the rad at? what is the exit temp?
I always fill mine when I install a new engine or have had it apart with the bleed screw totally out, stone cold... and fill it until water pours out of the bleed screw...Put the Screw back in then start it up wait for the fans to kick on (1st stage) and make sure its up to the "hot" mark, Toss the cap on wait for it to totally cool (as it will suck some fluid back) and then re-check level...
One time I had an issue where the Red light "Overtemp" light came on after 30 seconds of running from totally cold... Grabbed another sender off another engine I had.. All good... Ordered another replacement sensor.
Good Luck!
1) Thermostat, I almost always throw them on the stove in a pot of water and heat it up to see if they operate as described before I put them in.. I HATE that snap ring. Allot of PITA to have a bad one.. . I never re-install the rubber seal around the T-stat.. So what if a little coolant leaks by? It purges the system better and I never drive my car when it is cold out anyhow..
2) Belt, take the top cover off the Engine and see how tight the belt is that drives the WP Its possible that on low RPM combined with minimal air through the rad its not moving enough fluid.
3) Rad Efficiency, Id Pop the Rad out and Shake out all the 30 years of crap out of the fins (The External Fins that have bugs and road crap in them) that is making it in-efficient Ive found that just laying the Rad Flat on the floor (Front face down) and shaking, lightly (banging) it on the ground will shake out a TON of crap... you will be surprised.
4) Confirm actual engine temp as it corresponds to the Gauge, The sensor is just a resistor or Technically a Thermistor, Any "Additions resistance in the wiring (Crimps) or stake on connections will change the reading on the gauge.
And if all else fails, Run to the Depot and get an IR Temp Gun, See what temp the water is going into the rad at? what is the exit temp?
I always fill mine when I install a new engine or have had it apart with the bleed screw totally out, stone cold... and fill it until water pours out of the bleed screw...Put the Screw back in then start it up wait for the fans to kick on (1st stage) and make sure its up to the "hot" mark, Toss the cap on wait for it to totally cool (as it will suck some fluid back) and then re-check level...
One time I had an issue where the Red light "Overtemp" light came on after 30 seconds of running from totally cold... Grabbed another sender off another engine I had.. All good... Ordered another replacement sensor.
Good Luck!
The following users liked this post:
Velozipedia (08-17-2019)
08-17-2019, 01:19 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
Long shot but are you sure you have the correct ratio of coolant to water?
Almost sounds like a heat sink issue at rest.
Almost sounds like a heat sink issue at rest.
The following users liked this post:
Velozipedia (08-17-2019)
08-17-2019, 11:21 AM
#18
Thank you guys for your help.
Now i have the second new thermostat and nothing changed.
Radiator and temp sensors (gauge and dme-sensor) are new, engine has been fully rebuilt with all new components you can buy on the market.
I'll try bleeding and bleeding and bleeding within the next few days... And will test the c/w ratio...
Now i have the second new thermostat and nothing changed.
Radiator and temp sensors (gauge and dme-sensor) are new, engine has been fully rebuilt with all new components you can buy on the market.
I'll try bleeding and bleeding and bleeding within the next few days... And will test the c/w ratio...
08-17-2019, 11:40 AM
#19
Three Wheelin'
