Excessive Negative Camber
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Excessive Negative Camber
A while back, my 944 crashed after some bad brake fade. The car drives and runs very well. I have replacement body panels and just need to finalize my new paint job (round 3 lol). However, when I got an alignment after the accident, the toe set fine and castor is still about the same but the right front wheel was past -4 degrees camber. I took it to a Big O's tire local shop and they seemed fairly competent but didn't know my 944 obviously. They got the wheel down to about -2.5 degrees camber. It's probably not their fault right? I am assuming something is bent very slightly and can't tell with the naked eye. What's the most likely cause, and can anyone recommend a good frame shop in the East Bay etc? I was thinking about even just visiting Livermore Porsche, their head mechanic knows 944's and is helpful.
#6
Psh. 4 degrees is nothing. 5 is where it really handles!
I think the frame measurements are in the factory technical specifications little pocket-sized booklet thingy.
It should have the factory-issued specifications including allowable tolerances.
Try asking the local Porsche or Audi dealer for a reference. Dealers rarely do frame work, but usually will direct you to the one(s) they work with when customer cars com in with such damage. If the head mechanic you mention knows his 944's, it's definitely worth visiting him and making an appointment for him to take a look at it on the lift.
It's also worth removing that corner wheel to see if it is still true. Checking A-arms, if the attachment points slid or moved, etc.
Upgrade your brake pads too. Do you know why you had brake fade? With the right pads, you shouldn't get brake fade unless you're driving in prolonged track conditions. Sounds like a fairly significant crash - glad you're okay!
Good luck!
Take care, (<---- waiting for you to troll me )
I think the frame measurements are in the factory technical specifications little pocket-sized booklet thingy.
It should have the factory-issued specifications including allowable tolerances.
Try asking the local Porsche or Audi dealer for a reference. Dealers rarely do frame work, but usually will direct you to the one(s) they work with when customer cars com in with such damage. If the head mechanic you mention knows his 944's, it's definitely worth visiting him and making an appointment for him to take a look at it on the lift.
It's also worth removing that corner wheel to see if it is still true. Checking A-arms, if the attachment points slid or moved, etc.
Upgrade your brake pads too. Do you know why you had brake fade? With the right pads, you shouldn't get brake fade unless you're driving in prolonged track conditions. Sounds like a fairly significant crash - glad you're okay!
Good luck!
Take care, (<---- waiting for you to troll me )
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Hahaha. Well my big mistake was that I had changed out most parts of the car, EXCEPT THE BRAKES. They had meat left so I left them, rotors too. I ended up redoing the whole brake system with new pads, rotors, fluid, rebuilt calipers (lol excessive) and did the clutch hose and stainless steel brake lines ^_^ Now it stops great with those semi-metallic Textar pads. The rotors I took off appeared to be the ORIGINAL(??) genuine Porsche rotors. I blame previous owner, haha.
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#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks Chris. For reference, I took out a solid metal pole and a wood and barbed wire fence at 35-40 MPH and drove it home. Lol. John Paul Jones is a well deserved name.
#10
Rennlist Member
I bet the holes at the bottom of the strut where it connects to the spindle got elongated. I've seen that many times.
If you actually have that wheel off the ground (e.g. lift it off the alignment rack) and then make your adjustment, you'll probably bring it back to spec.
If you actually have that wheel off the ground (e.g. lift it off the alignment rack) and then make your adjustment, you'll probably bring it back to spec.
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
No, hopefully not since it's a Koni yellow adjustable that only has a couple thousand miles on it. Visually the strut looks exactly like the other... so I will see when I get this figured out.
#15
Rennlist Member
Check the strut body right above the spindle mounting flange. The shock tubes like to bend there, especially konis. Can often tell by comparing the distance/spacing of the upper brake scoop mounting tabs to a known good strut.