Dan87951

Danno,
I'm due for a clutch, so where do I pick up one of these "Centerforce Dual-Friction" clutches? About how much more are they than a Cup clutch? The pedal must be alot stiffer now I'm assuming? I checked paragon and they don't have them on there site.. bummer..

Thanks

Skip

As with most online retailers, the catalog content is only a sampling of the parts and lines offered. Parts get added (and deleted) to the site almost daily (as in tonight...) If ever you are interested in using a specific supplier, or even just to price shop, just give a call.

Except for McMaster-Carr... they seem to have absolutely EVERYTHING online... sheesh

Skip (how many of you wonder if I really do read everything )

Danno

Wow Skip, if you've read the entire McMasterCarr online catalog, I'm amazed and aghasted! You really do have way too much time on your hands! Anyway, there really is such a thing as too much of a good thing. And the McMasterCarr online catalog is a prime example of it. I won't even bother attempting to find anything on that monstrosity. I just whip out the print version of the McMasterCarr catalog and flip through all 1200+ pages of it to find what I want.

Dan87951, check the ads in the back of Excellence. I got my Centerforce clutch kit through my local repair shop that did the install (and timing belts at the same time). I had fried my Cup clutch and they had my car hostage. I wouldn't even bother with the Cup clutch if I was in your shoes, it's only marginally better than the stock clutch (compared to alternatives).

I was looking at the lightweight Kennedy Engineering pressure-plate that Paragon has. Pretty cool unit and provides about twice the clamping pressure improvement compared to what's offered with the Cup clutch. And I would have liked to pick up a lightweight flywheel while I was at it too. But alas, my car was being held hostage. Finally went with the Centerforce Dual-friction kit because it had even higher clamping force the Kennedy one (about twice the stock clutch, 40% more than the Kennedy, 60% more than the Cup). And a supplier in L.A. was able to get it up to the shop that very same day, so I went with it.

So I recommend you spend the extra $400 for the Centerforce Dual-Friction kit and enjoy some peace of mind about your clutch.

Dan87951

If it last as long as you said with that kind of abuse!! Who wouldn't spend the extra $400?!?!

Thanks
Dan

Dan87951

Hey Danno,
I've been checking up on this centerforce clutch but can't find any information if it includes a pressure plate or throw out bearning when you buy there kit. I found a shop who sell me a Center Force Dual Friction clutch part #DF248248 for $799.95. This is the cheapest I have found so far, is there cheaper? What did you pay for your kit? If they don't come with a pressure plate what are you running?

Thanks

Danno

The Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch kit should come as a matched set of pressure-plate and clutch disc. Then add a release-bearing and pilot-bearings. Depending upon condition, may also need a clutch-fork and needle bearings. I got my clutch kit for about $1200 with related parts.

Check out these links:

Dan87951

Was a nice day today around 35-40 degrees and managed a 12.93 @ 115.6mph with a 3350 car weight.

IanM

I weighed my '89 951 on the scales, and it came out to 3130lb with 1/2 tank of gas (w/o me in the car). Inputted the car's weight plus me and the GTech displayed 305hp. I'm not sure if Danno's right about the GTech compensating for drivetrain losses, I'm pretty sure that number is more indicative of wheel hp. I'll have to check the manual to be sure. Well, for comparison, I put the car on a dyno...and got the exact same result - 305hp at the wheels!! So, I'd say the GTech is incredibly accurate, and displays wheel hp.

Danno

Wheel HP, eh? Then maybe my car really isn't as fast or as powerful as I thought! Boo, hooo Time for more mods!!!

DanD

The Gtech manual indicates Wheel HP. Quote
"G-Tech/Pro also measures delivered Horsepower, sometimes also called Rear Wheel Horsepower. This horsepower includes the loss of power through the drivetrain which is usually 10-15%. Rear Wheel Horsepower is what most people are interested in because that is what they experience when driving. The use of Flywheel Horsepower measurement is fading out because an engine can't run without a car"
Not entirely accurate, (an engine can run without a car). But none the less it's wheel HP.
What I've found is that you have to take great pains to make sure that the Gtech is level, straight ahead, and weigh is accurate. Then do some long pulls like a dyno to get consistant numbers.
I think is was already mentioned that the 1/4 mile trap speeds are inflated slightly. Since real drag strips average the last 60 feet for a speed reading.

Danno, why the bother, you add 10-20% depending on who you talk to.

Your readings do seem low, maybe another dyno tuning day is in order. I need to find a dyno in this area (northern/central/Calif). So far the pickings are slim and his brother none.

Dan87951

One thing I have learned here is that your car will not run worth a shi* unless it is properly tuned. I would think you guys with the big turbo's and other mods would be pulling mid 12's and around 315-320rwhp? I'm going to be dynoing my car this spring so then I can have an acurate number to share but my highest Gtech dyno was 304HP. I would think Danno that yours would be in close to 315-320HP? When I talked to Huntley about turbos he told me the Stage 2 would bring my car to around 330HP, so ruffly 315-320 since Derrick sometimes blows smoke up my a$$. What kind of times do you guys pull? Oh yeah does it matter what dyno I run my car on?

Ahmet

Danno

Shouldn't you be happy that the G-tech displays rear wheel hp? How is the same # of hp displayed for the wheels instead of flywheel a bad thing, doesn't that mean you have more hp at the flywheel?
Ahmet