Weird noises after belt tensioning
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Weird noises after belt tensioning
I did my 2000 miles post-install tensioning, and I'm getting some clatter. It's not whine (too tight) or thunking (too loose). It idles fine but starts getting weird at a 2k+ rpm. I mean, it might be that something is too loose, but it's not really clear. I've done the damn job 4 times in the last week trying to get it right... I'm the worst belt tensioner in the world apparently.
I have no balance shafts nor do I have an AC compressor, so only the timing and alternator belts. I made a video that really says it all...
Am I nuts, or is this noise a problem I should investigate further? I haven't driven it since I finished the job, only revved it lightly in neutral.
I have no balance shafts nor do I have an AC compressor, so only the timing and alternator belts. I made a video that really says it all...
Am I nuts, or is this noise a problem I should investigate further? I haven't driven it since I finished the job, only revved it lightly in neutral.
#3
Drifting
The crankshaft pulley is supposed to be torqued to 155 ft lbs and make sure it's tracking straight (some people don't get them on straight and they torque them down mis-aligned). The idler pulley is supposed to have a credit card clearance from the timing belt. The alternator belt doesn't use a twist method to check for tension. It's supposed to be pushed with your finger along the longest run to see about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection. After you've checked these items, let us know how you're doing.
#4
Race Car
The crankshaft pulley is supposed to be torqued to 155 ft lbs and make sure it's tracking straight (some people don't get them on straight and they torque them down mis-aligned). The idler pulley is supposed to have a credit card clearance from the timing belt. The alternator belt doesn't use a twist method to check for tension. It's supposed to be pushed with your finger along the longest run to see about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection. After you've checked these items, let us know how you're doing.
I am talking about this pulley, not the timing belt/balance shaft belt pulley at the crank:
No the idler for the timing belt is supposed to touch the timing belt. The idler for the balance shaft belt is supposed to have 0.8mm gap between the belt and the roller.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I never took the crank pulley off, all I did was swing the alternator down so I could slip the belt off, so it should be fine.
As for the idler pulley, I can't see a way to adjust it... the nut is frozen on it, and it's not eccentric anyway. I'll tighten the alt belt tomorrow morning first thing. It was definitely too loose a few days but I tightened it up to how you see it in the video. That's still too loose, huh...
As for the idler pulley, I can't see a way to adjust it... the nut is frozen on it, and it's not eccentric anyway. I'll tighten the alt belt tomorrow morning first thing. It was definitely too loose a few days but I tightened it up to how you see it in the video. That's still too loose, huh...
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Will do. From the noise in the video, did it sound like a loose belt was a good possibility? I'm debating whether or not I will take it to a pro tomorrow. If it's a loose belt I can fix that, but if some other issue is afoot, that's not going to work... I have to somehow get my *** 3 hours north to move into my apartment in a couple days
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#8
Race Car
A rachet and a 10mm socket will enable you to check those bolts. You won't be able to see them from the top so go by feel. I have seen those bolts broken off and pulley held on by 2 loose bolts making noise and causing wobble.