Tips and tricks, a webpage?
01-21-2002 | 10:08 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 1
From: Northern NJ
Tips and tricks, a webpage?
We have skips tech session for all the big things, so how about a web page for all the little tid bits?
I dunno maybe skip wants to do that to if he's so inclined...I'll do it otherwise..
By the little tidbits I mean:
The tools you need to do all the little jobs..like bleed the brakes & clutch...change the door stays...stuff like that.
Also things like shaving the wrench to bleed the clutch slave (I had to...used a bench grinder)...how to bleed the brakes & clutch?
You guys I'm sure know way more than I do...please chime in on whether you think its a good/bad idea..I, for one, think it'd help a lot..
I dunno maybe skip wants to do that to if he's so inclined...I'll do it otherwise..
By the little tidbits I mean:
The tools you need to do all the little jobs..like bleed the brakes & clutch...change the door stays...stuff like that.
Also things like shaving the wrench to bleed the clutch slave (I had to...used a bench grinder)...how to bleed the brakes & clutch?
You guys I'm sure know way more than I do...please chime in on whether you think its a good/bad idea..I, for one, think it'd help a lot..
01-21-2002 | 11:38 PM
#4
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,034
Likes: 2
From: Cary, nc
Great Idea, i have a 924 and as soon as i got it i had to put a clutch in, and so many other "little Things" (why is it the little things take the longest???) that would have helped out a lot!!!! I would give my usual .02
MArk
MArk
01-22-2002 | 12:27 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 1
From: Northern NJ
OK.
My tips and tricks:
Bleeding brakes:
tools- 11mm closed end wrench, speed bleeders/pressure bleeder, 1/4" ID clear tubing.
In general: Bleed from the farthest to the closest (from the fluid resevoir). Start with the inside bleeder on each caliper (if you have 2).
If using speed bleeders, just pump the pedal. Make sure you constantly check the fluid level in the resevoir and never push the pedal all the way down, use short strokes. Pushing the pedal all the way down will result in possibly destroying your master cylinder. This is because you would push the master to a place where it usually doesn't go, where dirt had built up...thus the seals get cut up and wammo...time to replace it.
If using a pressure bleeder:
Same thing...make sure you check the fluid level often. Pump it up to 15psi and you're good to go.
Bleeding the clutch slave:
Tools: 7mm closed end wrench, 1/4" ID clear tubing. I used a craftsman tool and had to grind it down to allow it to get off the nut, while the hose is still attached.
Doin it: I recommend doing this with a pressure bleeder only. It took me 5 minutes once I got the right tool with the pressure bleeder...I've heard of people futzing around for hours with speed bleeders and vacum bleeders. What you'll actually be bleeding is the clutch slave, which is right above the (black) starter. It's centrally located left to right, towards the back of the engine. Wear goggles unless you want lotsa crud falling in your eye!
NEEXXTT...
The door stays...If your door doesn't hold itself open, or makes a loud cracking sound when it does...you've got a problem with your door stay.
If it makes a loud cracking sound:
The first thing to do is lubricate the door stay itself...WD40 works fine to temporarily test if thats the problem...after that when(if) the problem comes back use normal grease).
If that doesn't solve your problem, try tightening the bolts that hold the door stay to the frame of the car. They're 6mm 12 point cheese heads (triple square). The tool you need is made by Lisle and Snap-on. DO NOT TRY TO USE SOMETHING THAT ISN'T A 12 POINT...YOU WILL STRIP THE HEAD! If after you tighten those up...you still have a problem..then the door stay has to come off.
If it plain ole doesn't work and makes no noise: Time to replace it, part number is 944 537 609 00 and should be about $30.
Removing the door stay:
Uhh...take off dem dere 6mm triple square bolts...IF you have a problem doing this, such as the bolt is lose but doesn't come out, you have to remove the kick panel OR bend a 10mm wrench. The problem? The 6mm triple square is threaded into a square nut that is tack welded to the frame. That square nut came lose from the frame. Of course the other possible problem is a busted bolt, but in that situation you would still be able to remove the door stay.
Once its removed, you can either just replace it or attempt to repair it...if you see a rock or something come out...then that may have been causing your loud cracking and I would reinstall the door stay to test.
NEEXTTTT
The clock bulb:
Now..the process for doing this is already outlined in skip's tech session, but what do you do if the board on your clock has broken, not allowing you to install your new bulb? Dun dun dun...
What I did is tap into the line going to light for the cig lighter. There are 3 wires, I dont remember the colors. Just make sure one is +12v, the other is -12V. The most important part of this is to make sure you scratch off the connection on the clock board...just enough so that the circuit is not complete...else you have smokey da clock. I found that if you install the bulb at a 45degree angle of where it should be, it stays put.
The tips: The connection on the back of the clock pulls right off. As does the connection on the back of the hazard switch. DO NOT remove the hazard switch if you can avoid it...its very likely that you'll break the tabs that hold it in if you do. Other than that..follow the directions at the tech-session.
Thats about all I can think of right now...
Hell some of those are long enough to be a dam tech-session article in and of themselves...whatcha think Skip?? Language needs to be refined in them obviously.
Everybody else...post your tips/tricks/directions..whatever...after it's all said and done we'll have em organized on a website, who's I dont know, but A website..
My tips and tricks:
Bleeding brakes:
tools- 11mm closed end wrench, speed bleeders/pressure bleeder, 1/4" ID clear tubing.
In general: Bleed from the farthest to the closest (from the fluid resevoir). Start with the inside bleeder on each caliper (if you have 2).
If using speed bleeders, just pump the pedal. Make sure you constantly check the fluid level in the resevoir and never push the pedal all the way down, use short strokes. Pushing the pedal all the way down will result in possibly destroying your master cylinder. This is because you would push the master to a place where it usually doesn't go, where dirt had built up...thus the seals get cut up and wammo...time to replace it.
If using a pressure bleeder:
Same thing...make sure you check the fluid level often. Pump it up to 15psi and you're good to go.
Bleeding the clutch slave:
Tools: 7mm closed end wrench, 1/4" ID clear tubing. I used a craftsman tool and had to grind it down to allow it to get off the nut, while the hose is still attached.
Doin it: I recommend doing this with a pressure bleeder only. It took me 5 minutes once I got the right tool with the pressure bleeder...I've heard of people futzing around for hours with speed bleeders and vacum bleeders. What you'll actually be bleeding is the clutch slave, which is right above the (black) starter. It's centrally located left to right, towards the back of the engine. Wear goggles unless you want lotsa crud falling in your eye!
NEEXXTT...
The door stays...If your door doesn't hold itself open, or makes a loud cracking sound when it does...you've got a problem with your door stay.
If it makes a loud cracking sound:
The first thing to do is lubricate the door stay itself...WD40 works fine to temporarily test if thats the problem...after that when(if) the problem comes back use normal grease).
If that doesn't solve your problem, try tightening the bolts that hold the door stay to the frame of the car. They're 6mm 12 point cheese heads (triple square). The tool you need is made by Lisle and Snap-on. DO NOT TRY TO USE SOMETHING THAT ISN'T A 12 POINT...YOU WILL STRIP THE HEAD! If after you tighten those up...you still have a problem..then the door stay has to come off.
If it plain ole doesn't work and makes no noise: Time to replace it, part number is 944 537 609 00 and should be about $30.
Removing the door stay:
Uhh...take off dem dere 6mm triple square bolts...IF you have a problem doing this, such as the bolt is lose but doesn't come out, you have to remove the kick panel OR bend a 10mm wrench. The problem? The 6mm triple square is threaded into a square nut that is tack welded to the frame. That square nut came lose from the frame. Of course the other possible problem is a busted bolt, but in that situation you would still be able to remove the door stay.
Once its removed, you can either just replace it or attempt to repair it...if you see a rock or something come out...then that may have been causing your loud cracking and I would reinstall the door stay to test.
NEEXTTTT
The clock bulb:
Now..the process for doing this is already outlined in skip's tech session, but what do you do if the board on your clock has broken, not allowing you to install your new bulb? Dun dun dun...
What I did is tap into the line going to light for the cig lighter. There are 3 wires, I dont remember the colors. Just make sure one is +12v, the other is -12V. The most important part of this is to make sure you scratch off the connection on the clock board...just enough so that the circuit is not complete...else you have smokey da clock. I found that if you install the bulb at a 45degree angle of where it should be, it stays put.
The tips: The connection on the back of the clock pulls right off. As does the connection on the back of the hazard switch. DO NOT remove the hazard switch if you can avoid it...its very likely that you'll break the tabs that hold it in if you do. Other than that..follow the directions at the tech-session.
Thats about all I can think of right now...
Hell some of those are long enough to be a dam tech-session article in and of themselves...whatcha think Skip?? Language needs to be refined in them obviously.
Everybody else...post your tips/tricks/directions..whatever...after it's all said and done we'll have em organized on a website, who's I dont know, but A website..
01-22-2002 | 02:22 AM
#6
Pro
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 666
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, Va
Originally posted by adrial:
<STRONG>... shaving the wrench to bleed the clutch slave (I had to...used a bench grinder)...</STRONG>
<STRONG>... shaving the wrench to bleed the clutch slave (I had to...used a bench grinder)...</STRONG>
The site sounds like a good idea. With pics too?
01-22-2002 | 02:25 AM
#7
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Palos Verdes Estates, CA
Maybe some stuff on fixing the wires and switches for them darn power windows, locks. Sunroof help, replacing the crappy speakers, changing shift boot and shift ****, steering wheel. Those sort of things are what i consider little things. Rear wiper, ac help, etc.