Hey all. To start off my first post I'd like to ask a question about my emergency brake. It's very loose and won't hold the car stationary. The handle will go all the up.
I did some searching and found the following post. But being a pretty novice mechanic I'm still not clear on the exact procedure.

<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/scripts/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=24&t=000029" target="_blank">http://forums.rennlist.com/scripts/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=24&t=0000 29</a>

Is there a nice write up on how to do this somewhere? Also I'd like to avoid taking the calipers off too. I've heard it's possible with a little extra work. But usually anything dealing with brakes I just take it to the shop. Unless some other person is going to baby sit me while I do it.

Anyways thanks in advance!

 

It is standard drum brake adjusting methodology.
There is an access hole.
You will find a star wheel perpendicular to the hole. using the screwdriver, leverage against the opening to turn the star wheel...it will click.click.click.click. gentle pressure is all that is necessary. if it fights, go the other way.

I can send you the procedure from the 944 repair manual if you wish.

Good luck.

NOte: i believe there is also an adjustment at the hand-lever as well.

 

If you have that procedure from the manual handy that would be great.

And this has to be done on both rear axles or just the drivers side? I guess the manual would explain most of that anyways.

It doesn't sound too bad to adjust though.

 

Having just done this a few days ago with great results (2 clicks on the handle- the car won't move even on a hill ), I'll share some insights...

&gt;Is there a nice write up on how to do this &gt;somewhere? Also I'd like to avoid taking the &gt;calipers off too.

You can certainly do it without taking off the calipers, but removing the calipers makes it much easier to tell what your doing, and taking the caliper off was very, very easy. With the caliper/rotor off, you can get the shoes 80% tight (too tight and you won't be able to get the rotor back on), and then just do the finishing 20% using just the 'hole' To find the gear with the rotor hole (I think there are actually 3 holes, use the biggest one, the others are for screwing in bolts if the rotor is stuck), you pretty much just set the hole at the straight up position.

As others have mentioned, your going to be turning a 'star/gear' shaped thingy which turns a on a bolt which pushes the brake shoes farther outward.
The caveat is that the 'gear' is facing it's teeth AT you, so your going to be leveraging a screwdriver up/down.
If I'm not mistaken moving the screwdriver down-then-up (turning the gear upward) tightens the brake, going up-then-down loosens it.

You basically keep turning it until you can't turn it no more. See if you can turn the wheel by hand, if not; loosen it, periodically checking if you can turn it by hand.

You definately have to do it to both sides, (unless you only want one side to hold the entire car <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" /> )

When that's done, you need to move into the car, push the seat all the way forward and pull open the carpet flap that hides the adjusters for the E-brake handle. Basically you loosen both outer lock nuts, and turn the bolts(which tightens the cable) until the cable has tension. Tighten the lock nuts and your done!

The Haynes 944 manual has a good explaination of what to do, with some decent pictures.

Good Luck!

 

That's a lot of great info! Thanks for typing all that up.
It sounds like I've got my work cut out for me then. <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />