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Clutch Noise and Hatch hinge pin

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Old 07-11-2013, 12:16 AM
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Racerstev
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Default Clutch Noise and Hatch hinge pin

I think this car is possessed!

First I open the hatch today and one hinge just separate's from the hatch.
The hinge pin seems to have fallen out and is now gone. Can I still buy the
hinge or hinge pin?

After leaving the house I jumped on it a bit and when I let off I heard a
rubbing sound coming from the back of the engine, kinda loud and would
change speed with engine speed. It would stay the same with the clutch in
or out and the same no mater what gear it was in.

I put it in the air at work and it is definitely coming from the clutch area. On
the way home I caught a wiff of what smelled like burning rubber and the
noise resided a good bit but you can still hear it if you listen for it.

Is my stock clutch ready to call it quits? Were is the best place to pick one
up?

Thanks for the help, Steve
Old 07-11-2013, 12:31 AM
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mytrplseven
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If you put your finger inside the inspection port on the bottom of the bellhousing and come out with blackened pieces of rubber, It's likely that your clutch has packed it in. I had a rubber centered clutch and since I was replacing the leaky rear main seal, decided to replace it with a spring centered clutch. The process is not fun if you are having issues getting the clutch fork pivot pin out. While it's all apart, I recommend doing the clutch fork shaft bearings and the pilot bearing in the flywheel, too.

Personally, I was lucky. A guy on ebay had an '86 that had about 100 miles on a new clutch when his car got T-boned. I got the entire clutch assembly for $100....can you believe it?
Old 07-11-2013, 11:52 PM
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Racerstev
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n
Originally Posted by mytrplseven
If you put your finger inside the inspection port on the bottom of the bellhousing and come out with blackened pieces of rubber, It's likely that your clutch has packed it in. I had a rubber centered clutch and since I was replacing the leaky rear main seal, decided to replace it with a spring centered clutch. The process is not fun if you are having issues getting the clutch fork pivot pin out. While it's all apart, I recommend doing the clutch fork shaft bearings and the pilot bearing in the flywheel, too.

Personally, I was lucky. A guy on ebay had an '86 that had about 100 miles on a new clutch when his car got T-boned. I got the entire clutch assembly for $100....can you believe it?
Seems the noise is almost gone now, I'll put it up and check for rubber bits tomorrow.
If you come across another $100 clutch hook me up! They seem to go for about $800 plus
flywheel machining.

I checked Clarks garage to see what is involved, man a lot of work! It
almost looks easier to pull the engine instead of the trans... It would be
a good time to check rod bearings and do a reseal before it starts leaking..
Thoughts on that???

This car seems to fix itself! Lifters that clack then stop after you order a new
set, heater that goes full hot then fixs itself, radiater that leaks and stops on
it's own..Now the clutch that screams at you then goes silent...Now if I
could just get it to paint itself!

Steve



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