dusty

anyone ever tried to replace a connecting rod from the bottom of the engine with the crank already installed? im just sitting here waiting on my rod to come in, and figured i could save alot of time if i could install the head already. i know on most engines its not possible, just wondering though.

Perry 951

Don't think so. How would you get the wrist pin in and the snap rings in place? Not to mention that you should install the pistons from the top, not the bottom.

dusty

sorry i didnt clarify, but it would have the piston already on it. on most engines the connecting rod cant clear the crankshaft when this is done, but i have found some short skirt engines (much as ours are) that this procedure can work on. the hard (very) part is usually squeezing a ring compressor in and out of there. Im gonna go on a short rant here. This is a badass machine shop i take my stuff to, they really know their stuff. Im 19, nearly out of auto school, working at a tire shop and an import repair/performance shop. I tell these guys that the bolts on the flywheel are 12 point internal, and i can have the socket up there tommorow if they dont have it. So the guy says, oh i have a torx that will fit it. Alright ill let him try, whatever. I turn back around and see him hit it with a torx socket on an impact. I dont know what he tried next, but after two bolts were stripped someone had enough sense to say "hey, i think that might just be 12pt. internal, let me get that out of my box". They were only two bolts and i ordered new ones anyway, but it would have been nice to have not risked my driveplate when they had to remove the stripped bolts with an air chisel. --end rant-- Anyway the main and rod bearings didnt come in on time, they were on backorder, and also they couldnt fix my rod, so it will be monday before that comes in. i have to have my car out of the shop by the 19th, and im trying to avoid finishing up in the damn parking lot if i can.

Perry 951

I don't think it will fit. (Concidering I pulled out my pistons 3 hours ago)

As for the 12 point bolts... if they didn't even use the right tool for that, do you really trust them to do the motor?

I'd get the parts and do it in the parking lot!

dusty

well i got my lazy *** out to the shop to check and you were right, man i could make it except for the bore doesnt go all the way down. anyway i cleaned my block with this stuff called cleansol i beleive, it worked really well. still oxidizes on the outside, but it made the oil galleries etc spotless. Its gonna be really nice having clean oil and coolant for once, that is if my rings seal....

PorscheG96

Where can I get metric 12 point bits? I've looked at many different places and no one has even heard of such a thing. I need 6mm for the rear hatch latches and 8mm for the CV joints. Don't tell me they're special Porsche tools. -Trevor

Perry 951

Sears, Pep Boys, pretty much any good parts or tool store should have them. You can get a full set for like 20 bucks. Be sure you clean all the heads of the bolts very very well. Use toothpics and a lot of Brake Cleaner! Then, tap the tool into the bolt with a hammer and give it a few taps to wake up the bolts.

As far as a cleaner goes, CRC's Brakekleen is the best. (Use the red and black can, not green) It usually won't oxidize aluminum. I have used a case already on the majority of my motor to remove the soot, oil, and gunk from my fire.