Rear shocks
#1
Rear shocks
I'll post it here too because it's on topic.
Is it possible to fit rear shocks from earlier 944:s and 924:s to -86 951 with aluminium trailing arm? Is the length same, ratio same?
I have had Kyb Gas-A-Justs with my previous non P cars and I liked them then. Does anybody have any experiences with these?
Is it possible to fit rear shocks from earlier 944:s and 924:s to -86 951 with aluminium trailing arm? Is the length same, ratio same?
I have had Kyb Gas-A-Justs with my previous non P cars and I liked them then. Does anybody have any experiences with these?
#2
The lower bolt is a different diameter. You'll have to change out the bushing and eyelet somehow.
KYBs are fine for general around-town driving. A little soft for competitive use. You can get rear ones for $35 from here:
http://www.shox.com
KYBs are fine for general around-town driving. A little soft for competitive use. You can get rear ones for $35 from here:
http://www.shox.com
#3
So the bolt is smaller than in earlier ones, and I can fit it with bush. Or is the bolt bigger so I'm in trouble of changing the eyelet?
I noticed they sell these for $29 in tirerack and for -86 951 too.
How would these compare in stiffness to Sachs original.
I noticed they sell these for $29 in tirerack and for -86 951 too.
How would these compare in stiffness to Sachs original.
#4
I put some KYB Gas-a-just shocks on the rear of my 944S2 about 5 months ago. It was better than the worn-out factory shock, but they're far too soft for somewhat aggressive freeway driving. If you want a soft ride, they're probably fine. I'll be replacing them with Koni yellows in about a month.
#5
OK
It seems that Kyb is not the way to go. I am looking for stiffer ride than original. It seems that options are limited to Bilstein and Koni. I don't know about adjustability whether I would ever adjust rear shocks after installing since Koni's rebound adjustment isn't so user friendly.
From where could I get best deal on Koni's? www.shox.com?
It seems that Kyb is not the way to go. I am looking for stiffer ride than original. It seems that options are limited to Bilstein and Koni. I don't know about adjustability whether I would ever adjust rear shocks after installing since Koni's rebound adjustment isn't so user friendly.
From where could I get best deal on Koni's? www.shox.com?
#6
A question of relevance. I've never replaced the rear shocks on my car and I'm gonna do so within the week. Does anyone know a tech procedure online (Skip dude, this is where you probably come in)? It looks pretty darn simple compared to the fronts.
#7
I'm running the KYB's as an interim measure. They are stiffer than the stock shocks. They aren't bad at all for street use. 29 bucks apiece, can't complain.
By and by, I'll be running Bilsteins or Konis too. When I have the $$ and the gumption to do all 4 at once.
Thaddeus
By and by, I'll be running Bilsteins or Konis too. When I have the $$ and the gumption to do all 4 at once.
Thaddeus
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#8
I'm running the KYBs too but they are coming off this weekend for Bilstein Sports and new 250# springs up front, already replaced the struts, renew the sway bar bushings, etc...the KYBs were pretty good for renewing the ride. But I am putting some additional power in the car in January so I've go to upgrade the supension a bit.
Anybody need a cheap set of replacements, email me. The rear KYBs have less than 5k on them.
Anybody need a cheap set of replacements, email me. The rear KYBs have less than 5k on them.
#9
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Originally posted by Lemon Yellow 87 n/a:
<STRONG> I've never replaced the rear shocks on my car and I'm gonna do so within the week. Does anyone know a tech procedure online. It looks pretty darn simple compared to the fronts.</STRONG>
<STRONG> I've never replaced the rear shocks on my car and I'm gonna do so within the week. Does anyone know a tech procedure online. It looks pretty darn simple compared to the fronts.</STRONG>
- lower car onto blocks_under_the_tires to *unload* the supension (I use 2 4x6's per side). At the same time, you should be lowering the chassis onto jack stands for safety. (cars don't kill people, gravity does )
- remove top and bottom bolts/nuts (top requires you hold both ends, unless using an air wrench)
- replace unit, torque to spec (I don't have it now, can look it up tonight if someone else doesn't answer up)
If it sounds simple, it is. The rear shock replacement is about *one hammer* higher on the scale than an oil change. Guess I'll get a proper Tech-Session up on this with pictures and all.
Be sure to block the wheels from hanging loose... the shock is sometimes *suspending* the trailing arm. On cars like mine (30mm T-bar) the suspension can't unload that far.
Good Luck!