jordanolder

It seems I have water in my oil by looking at the dipstick.

I was told it could be
1) head gasket
2) oil cooler
3) cracked block(?)

Anyone have instructions on how to check for these things and then how to replace the head gasket? oil cooler? get a new car? (<-joke)

Mike B

A leakdown test should narrow it down for you...It's probably the oil cooler seals (guessing you have a 944 N/A), possibly the headgasket and a distant third would be the cracked block...


Leak Down Test instructions

Tabor

More info and replacement procedure for the oil cooler.

chiefbrody

Before getting into replacing the head gasket, I would replace the oil cooler gasket (Engine Builder Supply is where I got mine). They are not that expensive and with the instructions from Tabor, it's not too difficult. Just take your time and try not to do it 45 to 90 minutes like the posting says it can be done. The heat shield alone took me that long. Good luck!

jordanolder

Thanks guys!

When I fix it, how do I flush out the water/oil?

rplencne

Even if you drain the oil and let it drip, you'll still probably have nearly a quart of oil/coolant mix left in the various valleys inside. After you change the gaskets, install a new oil filter and load it up with some not-too-expensive oil and run the motor for a while, paying close attention to the oil by monitoring the dip stick. If you see a little mix, it's probaly only from the left over stuff you couldn't drain out. If so, do another oil change and a new filter and add the oil you typically use. Hopefully all will be well, but keep on monitoring the oil to be certain you really fixed the problem, and that you've flushed all the oil/coolant mix out. It might even need a third oil change. Then of course, there's always the thread about the possibility of bearing damage ... keep an eye on your oil pressure for any out of the ordinary readings.

-Bob P.

jordanolder

how much is the alignment tool?

alignment tool 9215 000.721.921.50


how much are the other parts?

valve 944.107.035.11
o-ring 944.107.935.11
seal ring N.043.815.3

jordanolder

thanks for the info guys!

seems to work after just changing the oil cooler. it is a pain to get to though behind the headers.

Steve Lavigne

FYI, if you decide to do a compression check and buy a Craftsman compression gauge you will be very disappointed. I bought a $25 "Crapsman" compression gauge and had the fitting separate from the hose in the spark plug hole. I ended up pounding a 6mm 1/4" socket onto the fitting to remove the the spark plug hole fitting. Luckily Sears refunded my $25 for the compression gauge. I bought a snap-on compression gauge and it works so nice, gave me numbers of 145 to 150 after 10 cranks on my turbo, and *only* cost $160. I suppose this is a "lifetime" tool.

-Steve

951Tom

I bought a alignment pin from Baum Inc, $45+s/h.

<a href="http://www.baumtools.com" target="_blank">www.baumtools.com</a>

<img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />
Tom
'87 951
'86 Supra

judd944

I bought the parts from Pelican Parts in El Segundo Calif. the alighment tool was 13.45 and the seal kit was something like 37.50. Unfortunatly they reccomend using an updated oil cooler housing if your car is 86 or older. even after i replaced all the seals the problem was not fixed, I had the most unlikley source...a cracked block! <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" /> Ouch.

judd944

Oh and another thing, If you have an early car the oil pressure relief valve you have in it will not have any replacement parts for it and the updated version is 280 bucks. They were so kind as to put one in for me at the shop last week, Oh joy...

jordanolder

I didnt use an alignment tool and its fine so far (havn't rolled it off the stands yet!)