keith

I am thinking of going to an adjustable, rising rate perhaps, fuel pressure regulator, with gauge to mount in the engine compartment, to replace the fuel rail mounted regualtor, and having an appropriate bung welded to the fuel rail in that location to run a braided hose with a compression fitting (standard pipe thread or something).

The prices I'm seeing are $200-$300. However, on ebay, there are units for Honda, new, for $85!?!

Is there a difference? Are there brands/types I need to avoid? Pressure ranges I need to ensure (I figure 30-70 psi ought to do it...)

Advice? Any of you done this before?

Any idea on where to mount if I want to keep my Cruise Control?

early85944

From what I can tell fuel pressure regulators all work on the same basic principle. Therefor, they should be interchangable. I own an early 85 944 which they do not make adj. regulators for per say, so I adapted a 928 adj. regulator so it would fit. After doing this I realized I could of just as easily payed 100 dollars less and bought one for a honda and adapted it as well. However, plan to spend 80 dollars at a hose shop having them make the proper fittings. You pay the extra money for the one that properly fits the car. Just remember the more connections there are in a fuel line, the more chances there are for leaks.

keith

were you able to have METRIC fiitings made up?

early85944

I just looked in the phonebook for a local guy advertised mertic pipe fitings. I cannot remeber what size it is but the thread is an inverted flare. At least it is on the early ones. Any hose guy who has metric stuff should be able to help you out.

keith

no one else converts to a universal adjustable? come on now...

Skip

Sure they do... GRM converted their 85.5 to a BMP Design AFPR w/gauge that got remoted to the CC motor area... but now you're back in the $300 range. Firestarter might have the correct/complete info on this, otherwise what little detail there was about it is in the GRM wrap-up of their project 944. Was a couple month's ago (December issue, go figure). I have it and can scan if needed. They did employ a fitting shop to do the connversion pieces and remote line, so there's no real detail about that.

Good Luck, Keith... using Honda parts on a Porsche... you're asking for it

Our AFPR mounts directly to the rail, then you can run the gauge on the endcap like so many other do. And it's less than $200 for sure. Just trying to be difficult, aren't you?

keith

what are the pros/cons of each? (that is the real point here.)

I needs education on this!

Skip

Honestly, I don't see the point in remoting it. As someone else pointed out, it's just one more failure point in an already volatile environment. The pressure setting is going to be done once, then forgot about for most folks. Only way to do it perfect is with the fancy Dyno and metering equipment (EGT, Fuel Pressure, Injector duty-cycle, wideband A/F meter, etc). Most folks put a gauge on the end cap to set it (good for idle repsonse and smoothness), then remove the gauge until the need arrises again... either do to upgrades or running problems(some NAPAs and Pep Boys even let you rent them with proper fittings).

Skip