fletch.

I only quoted Porsche list, as I mentioned prices may vary. I did not mention all the other wear parts that I would replace when I was in there, like

Clutch Release Bearing Bushing
Clutch Release Bearing Fork
Clutch Release Bearing Guide Tube
Clutch Release Fork Shaft
Clutch Release Lever Ball Pivot
Clutch Release Shaft Bearing
Clutch Release Shaft Bushing/Seal
Clutch Release Shaft Lever
Clutch Release Shaft Update

The bearings and guide tube are a must. Everyone has different levels of acceptable in parts. I prefer to use the best and replace questionable item, that way I do the job once. Taking chances on junkyard wear parts I'll leave to someone else, Sorry, this is not a 2600.00 job if done correctly.

Tabor

Fletch: I just got done replacing my 944 clutch about 6 months ago. I replaced:

• Pressure Plate
• Clutch Disc (updated spring centered variaty)
• Throw-out Bearing
• Flywheel Bolts
• Pilot Bearing
• Release Lever Shaft Bearings
• Clutch Slave Cylinder
• Clutch Master Cylinder
• Flywheel Seal
• Throw-Out Bearing Guide Tube

I got all of this and a Clutch Alignment Tool from pelicanparts for $653.30. I spent another $20 to get my flywheel resurfaced.

daly944

well, here is where I stand now. I just talked to the shop, and its gonna cost like 1400 bucks to fix my auto tranny, so I'm about 95%sure that I'm gonna swap it out for a manual. Something is wrong with the torque tube and something else. I have no problem spending the money for the manual swap, but I just want to make sure that I'm not leaving anything out.

Ahmet, you were talking about needing new controls, but my current controls have a tach and temp sensor, so why would I need another one? Also, the gear selector indicator could remain in place, I could just disconnect it right?

Here is the way I see it, My car carries much sentimental value, and I have already upgraded a bunch of stuff, so why not just spend some money and make it more fun to drive and give it a strong foundation for a supercharger in the near future. Thanks for all of your help.

fletch.

Tabor, I am not questioning your prices, I have access to the internet as well, plus I work for a major European parts importer, so even your quoted price is far more that I would pay. The street price of a clutch kit is not the issue. I believe the conversion will cost more in parts than 2600.00. It's not a good choice to begin with, but if you go thru with it, why not do it right? use new parts where needed, replace wear items with new, not “good used” build something your proud of.

Tabor

I am just curious why you thing you would need a new bell housing, or pedals, or throw out fork. There is not reason to buy these parts new. I agree that wear items should be purchased new. But I believe that I effectively pointed out that there are only ~$700 of wear items. Everything else can be purchased used.

Personally I would rebuild the torque tube before it went in, and replace the synchros on the tranny.

I just dont see why you think it will cost more than $2600.

Doc

I would not get a new bell Housing or pedal pack either, but I would go thru the linkage and clutch set up. Forks and fork shafts wear so I would replace. The forks get cupped, and play develops, and the shafts get grooved when the bearing rides and a notchy feeling appears. I would also go with a new flywheel, unless I had a used one that had never been cut and was in need of only a surface cut. Anything short of that would get a new flywheel. Cut flywheels = shorter clutch life. I guess I have been burned one to many times with used parts.

Julian Allen

I would not use copper tubing between the slave and master cylinders. You will need some part of the line to be flexible, since the engine flexes with respect to the firewall. If you use copper, it will fatigue much sooner than steel, with the result of brake fluid everywhere and no clutch. Murphy's law says this will happen at the most inopportune time.
A better solution would be to construct a flex line from -4 teflon/stainless hose and either run it from the master to the slave cylinder, or attach it to a portion of hard line, using 1/4" steel brakeline, available at most parts counters because it (bundy tubing) is used for fuel line in some cars.
You will need a flaring tool and the 12 mm nuts or adapters for the hydraulic cylinders, which you can get from Earls or other similar places.

keith

why not take that 1400.00, buy a running parts car, get your stuff from it (with exception of wear items), strip and sell the rest to recover your 1400., and buy your wear items. Come on guys - working overtime and paying what the man asks isn't the only way to do these things...

TomH

$1400 sounds about right for the auto trans flex plate. I just had my rear seal leak done and they advised me to replace my cracking flex plate. This was a non dealer Porshce mechanic charging $60/hr.

The rear seal was $900, which included all the labor to pull the rear axle and torque tube. The kicker was they charged me Porsche retail for the flex plate to the tune of $1000. This part sells for $549 at Vertex. They gave some BS about it probably wasn't Porsche brand. I paid the $1000.

Unless they have already pulled your flex plate and messed up your torque tube in the process. I'd want to know more about what exactly is wrong.

You should look into buying from Vertex. OR, if you want I'll sell you my old one which is still good. They estimated it had maybe 20K miles left on it. Put mine in, and sell your car and go find a 5spd.

The flex plate is pretty hefty (about 8" in dia. and weighs about 10 pounds, maybe more -due to an outer steel rim). I'll sell it to you for $50 plus shipping.

PS. take all your "upgrades" out of you current car, and put them in your new one

Tabor

You may be right about the flex line. There is one in my 944. However, there is not one in a lot of cars.

Manning

[QUOTE]Originally posted by daly944:
[QB]parts heaven included all the shifter ***** and pedals >

Is everything in place to mount a clutch pedal? I mean, it the pedal box the same from auto to manual or do you have to replace that too? Being at work I can't really walk out and crawl under the dash, especially since I drove the Fiat today. Does the pedal box bolt in or is it welded in place?

Manning

Another thing regarding the use of copper. Copper is bad bad bad as already stated. It will fatigue more quickly, will chemically react more readily and violently and will crush more easily in an automotive application. Some scrutineers will not even pass a car through tech if they find copper.

I do not see the harm in making the plumbing by any means however, just don't use copper. You can even use stainless if you use the right flair tool.

BTW, if you want to make braided lines for your fuel delivery, BAT sell metric hose ends for AN hoses. I think they are Mocal or Aeroquip or something.

Tabor

Manning: Sorry. I must be confused as to what is usually used as hydrolic line. I must have been spending too much time in the kitchen and not enough time under my car .

So, what is usually used?

Manning

Usually steel, sometimes stainless, though it is kind of brittle and hard to double flair. I think it will take like a 32 (?) degree flair but not a 47 (?) degree. Very very rarely aluminum in some high performance (drag racing) applications, though not street applications.