cleaning oil from radiator
#16
Nordschleife Master
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No, don't leave that capped T in the line. That is why I said put everything back together the way it was originally. I don't have my kit within 60 miles so you have to finalize on your own.
You need about 5 feet of cheap hose to fit on the end of the reservoir gizmo for the re-direct over the side of the car so as to not hurt paint. You can measure that ID when you buy the Prestone kit.
Then you need a foot (acutally less) of hose off the engine block. Measure that block nipple before you go out shopping. Then you need to connect back to that hose and the kit garden hose T is in between. So see which size fittings they give you in the Prestone kit and just make it work out with hose barb reducers and some extra hose of correct ID size. You will also need a couple extra hose clamps than is in the kit for this addition. Pretty simple to figure out if you just take the measurement of that block nipple and work off the actual parts in the Prestone kit. All you are doing is taking the existing hose off the existing block nipple and figuring out how to put the garden hose T in between, just for this flush project; no quality materials required.
Again, do NOT leave that plastic garden hose T in after you are all said and done.
Hey, You still in for the headlights and bulbs? Got any issues if I go Cibie rather than the Hella Supers? Lights are as good or better and a couple people want Cibie. I run Cibie in my 951, if that matters. I originally suggested Hella because almost no one under 40 has ever heard of Cibie.
You need about 5 feet of cheap hose to fit on the end of the reservoir gizmo for the re-direct over the side of the car so as to not hurt paint. You can measure that ID when you buy the Prestone kit.
Then you need a foot (acutally less) of hose off the engine block. Measure that block nipple before you go out shopping. Then you need to connect back to that hose and the kit garden hose T is in between. So see which size fittings they give you in the Prestone kit and just make it work out with hose barb reducers and some extra hose of correct ID size. You will also need a couple extra hose clamps than is in the kit for this addition. Pretty simple to figure out if you just take the measurement of that block nipple and work off the actual parts in the Prestone kit. All you are doing is taking the existing hose off the existing block nipple and figuring out how to put the garden hose T in between, just for this flush project; no quality materials required.
Again, do NOT leave that plastic garden hose T in after you are all said and done.
Hey, You still in for the headlights and bulbs? Got any issues if I go Cibie rather than the Hella Supers? Lights are as good or better and a couple people want Cibie. I run Cibie in my 951, if that matters. I originally suggested Hella because almost no one under 40 has ever heard of Cibie.
#17
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IceShark:
[quote] ...Hella because almost no one under 40 has ever heard of Cibie... <hr></blockquote>
Hey.. stop make me realise I am growing old...
Used to have 10 inch (!!) Cibie add-on lights (long range & wide beam) on the old beetle (yea air cooled this Porsche acc the thread Thaddeus started..) till they got pinched.
Did a perfect job for me then, replaced them with Hella, cheaper.
Cibie is French, wich could be the only objection...
Have a nice weekend & Take care
[quote] ...Hella because almost no one under 40 has ever heard of Cibie... <hr></blockquote>
Hey.. stop make me realise I am growing old...
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Used to have 10 inch (!!) Cibie add-on lights (long range & wide beam) on the old beetle (yea air cooled this Porsche acc the thread Thaddeus started..) till they got pinched.
Did a perfect job for me then, replaced them with Hella, cheaper.
Cibie is French, wich could be the only objection...
Have a nice weekend & Take care
#18
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well in case anyone is curious as to what it takes to back-flush a 944, here is what i bought:
prestone back flush kit
1 foot 3/4" heater hose
2 feet 1" vinyl tubing
cut the end off the the plastic peice that fits into your reservior so that the 1" hose will fit over the plastic (there's a rib on the end).
find the heater inlet hose on the back of the engine near the oil filler neck. undo three strange electrical connections (anyone know what they are??), two of which require a small wire to be pried off them in order to open. I also pulled that vacuum line off the big hose to the brake booster, but now it leaks at the connection so that might have been a bad idea. remove the short hose from the nipple on the block. this hose is either some proprietary porsche size or maybe metric, because it's just smaller than 3/4", so you need to cut the barb off the 3/4 barbed T that comes with the flush kit. getting the hose on to that was the hardest part. be carfeul of that really sketchy fragile looking vacuum actuated flimsy plastic valve looking thing that the other end of this hose goes to. I hope i didn't break mine. nothing that weak belongs in an engine bay anyway.... what was porsche thinking.
next cut a 3 or 4 inch peice of the heater hose you bought and fit it onto the other side of the T. do this connection first because it is harder since you are actually mating 3/4 to 3/4. connecting the other end of this short hose peice to the block nipple is easy because the nipple is smaller than 3/4 (remember how much trouble you had getting that hose onto the 3/4" T?). this is a really tight fit and i had to trim down my short peice of heater hose so that there was almost no hose at all between the nipple and the T once both connections were made. it is a tight fit and not easy. none of these connections looked that solid so i hose clamped them all, but didn't need to buy any extra clamps because there was one on the oem hose, and two came with the flush kit.
I haven't actually tried flushing yet because my ******* landlord came out and told me my light was bothering him and i had to turn it off. what the hell is with pussies who can't sleep if there is some faint wisp of light coming in through their blinds.
i'm a bit concerned that the ultra flimsy peice of crap that i was so worried about breaking is some sort of valve and the flushing won't work till i make it open.... does this open if you turn the heater on? (which you should do anyway for this procedure).
i hope shout isn't too corossive since my car is sitting back at home with a cooling system full of it right now, since as i mentioned i didn't get to finish.
dammit, i guess i'm picking my woman up at the airport in my ford tonight.....
prestone back flush kit
1 foot 3/4" heater hose
2 feet 1" vinyl tubing
cut the end off the the plastic peice that fits into your reservior so that the 1" hose will fit over the plastic (there's a rib on the end).
find the heater inlet hose on the back of the engine near the oil filler neck. undo three strange electrical connections (anyone know what they are??), two of which require a small wire to be pried off them in order to open. I also pulled that vacuum line off the big hose to the brake booster, but now it leaks at the connection so that might have been a bad idea. remove the short hose from the nipple on the block. this hose is either some proprietary porsche size or maybe metric, because it's just smaller than 3/4", so you need to cut the barb off the 3/4 barbed T that comes with the flush kit. getting the hose on to that was the hardest part. be carfeul of that really sketchy fragile looking vacuum actuated flimsy plastic valve looking thing that the other end of this hose goes to. I hope i didn't break mine. nothing that weak belongs in an engine bay anyway.... what was porsche thinking.
next cut a 3 or 4 inch peice of the heater hose you bought and fit it onto the other side of the T. do this connection first because it is harder since you are actually mating 3/4 to 3/4. connecting the other end of this short hose peice to the block nipple is easy because the nipple is smaller than 3/4 (remember how much trouble you had getting that hose onto the 3/4" T?). this is a really tight fit and i had to trim down my short peice of heater hose so that there was almost no hose at all between the nipple and the T once both connections were made. it is a tight fit and not easy. none of these connections looked that solid so i hose clamped them all, but didn't need to buy any extra clamps because there was one on the oem hose, and two came with the flush kit.
I haven't actually tried flushing yet because my ******* landlord came out and told me my light was bothering him and i had to turn it off. what the hell is with pussies who can't sleep if there is some faint wisp of light coming in through their blinds.
i'm a bit concerned that the ultra flimsy peice of crap that i was so worried about breaking is some sort of valve and the flushing won't work till i make it open.... does this open if you turn the heater on? (which you should do anyway for this procedure).
i hope shout isn't too corossive since my car is sitting back at home with a cooling system full of it right now, since as i mentioned i didn't get to finish.
dammit, i guess i'm picking my woman up at the airport in my ford tonight.....
#19
Nordschleife Master
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Ben, I don't know what is in that Shout but if it doesn't have chlorine, that will help alot if you need to have it sit for a day. I'd get it out ASAP just to be safe though.
You should have bought a hose adapter for that goofy sized nipple and a different sized hose, that is what I was talking about. But what is done is done. The vacuum valve thing you are worried about if you have broken is the valve that lets hot water into the heater core. Doubt you broke it but may have broken that stiff vacuum line which should be easy enough to tell and replace. Since you want the heater full open, may as well check the valve operation out by feeling the other side of the hose for temperature to see if the valve is working. I should have mentioned to buy some clear cheap hose so you can see what is going on with the water.
Remember, don't **** off your landlord or life will get tough.
Hans, Yup, the design is certainly Frog.
But the French got really excited about lighting for some reason and as a result put a lot of effort into it. I don't know how much longer the Cibie line is going to be around now that Valeo has them. They shut down all normal North American distribution some years ago.
Speaking about being aged, remember the Cibie Z-beam? Those things are worth a bit of money if you have an old pair. I tossed a pair that had some sand blasting on the lens face and a buddy went nuts when he learned I threw them in the garbage rather than give them to him. <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />
You should have bought a hose adapter for that goofy sized nipple and a different sized hose, that is what I was talking about. But what is done is done. The vacuum valve thing you are worried about if you have broken is the valve that lets hot water into the heater core. Doubt you broke it but may have broken that stiff vacuum line which should be easy enough to tell and replace. Since you want the heater full open, may as well check the valve operation out by feeling the other side of the hose for temperature to see if the valve is working. I should have mentioned to buy some clear cheap hose so you can see what is going on with the water.
Remember, don't **** off your landlord or life will get tough.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Hans, Yup, the design is certainly Frog.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Speaking about being aged, remember the Cibie Z-beam? Those things are worth a bit of money if you have an old pair. I tossed a pair that had some sand blasting on the lens face and a buddy went nuts when he learned I threw them in the garbage rather than give them to him. <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />
#20
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yeah, i'm gonna make my woman sit around while i flush my radiator tonight. heh heh. nothing like a nice romantic evening working on a car.
well, i went to a pretty big "home supply" type store and they just had standard sizes of hose, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4. the 3/4 was so close that i'm sure it would have been tough to find the "right" size, not to mention i'm not sure how i would have fit anything else in there (like a reducer and a 2nd peice of hose). I had actually cut myself a peice of clear vinyl 3/4 for the reason you mentioned, but then decided that maybe i shouldn't use something that was rated for 175deg F even for a little while.
well, i went to a pretty big "home supply" type store and they just had standard sizes of hose, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4. the 3/4 was so close that i'm sure it would have been tough to find the "right" size, not to mention i'm not sure how i would have fit anything else in there (like a reducer and a 2nd peice of hose). I had actually cut myself a peice of clear vinyl 3/4 for the reason you mentioned, but then decided that maybe i shouldn't use something that was rated for 175deg F even for a little while.
#21
Nordschleife Master
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There is nothing like a little car work to see if you want to keep a woman around for long.
That clear stuff at 175o will work fine. They rate it so low as it might get used in hot water delivery service under pressure, get soft and blow off a hose barb. You will find higher rated made out of the same base plastic but they put in a mesh reinforcing.
You need to find an old time hardware store. The Home Depot types just have the high volume SKUs.
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That clear stuff at 175o will work fine. They rate it so low as it might get used in hot water delivery service under pressure, get soft and blow off a hose barb. You will find higher rated made out of the same base plastic but they put in a mesh reinforcing.
You need to find an old time hardware store. The Home Depot types just have the high volume SKUs.