Is there a favorite or preferred way to smooth out pieces that will have gaskets sealing on them?

I will be going in and re-doing some stuff in my engine bay pretty soon and know for a fact that there are some spots where the valve cover forms a seal and where the oil filter seals on that have some subtle scratches and what not.

Its not like I'm re-surfacing the head or anything, just want to get things smoothed out so I can keep things dry until I go in for a rebuild.

The only thing I've come up with is high grit sandpaper in the 2000 to 3000 range.

Seems there is bound to be some strategies out there.

 

I have a large file that I use - keeps everything very flat.

On aluminum, be gentle!

 

I always thought that using a metal file would be too coarse for the application, but I would imagine its also a very purpose built tool at the same time. I have one exactly like that but lost it somewhere along the way...

Yeah I had the feeling that this is something I should probably just leave alone. I'm going to put a new valve cover + seals and intake manifold on pretty soon so I'll take a look at how bad stuff is. If it doesn't look too bad I'll just hold out for the rebuild.

Once I find a cheap reliable spare car I'll put the S away for a while. I've got a pretty bad *** build coming up

 

Every gasket seal will have a different approach..

for example,

- Intake gasket surfaces: I would use 400 grit sand paper to take off the rubbish which really would only be some sort of glue. you're not really sanding the aluminium down, just using it like a rag really to clean it.

- Exhaust (not the head surface but the exhaust itself) i would use a file. not a rough one but a medium one.

- cam cover (head and cam cover) i would use 400 grit sand paper again. if there's pits or its bad, you'll need to get that machined because the gasket is pretty much paper thin.

 

If you did not mess up the surface there is no need to resurface. If you just want to clean it up use scotch brite as that won't take much of the metal off.

 

NEVER use a file on a gasket sealing surface! use a razer to scrape off the gasket material and if you want to smooth out any nicks or high spots, then use a fine grade bench stone. you can get them in different sizes http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NOR...DB1?Pid=search

 

I work for a German machinery manufacture and have assembled several different machines for the complexes I work on, so I'll throw in my $.02. We used these all the time in the factory and I have yet to see any leaks. I would highly recommend using these when smoothing out a surface. In Barßel I was instructed to use these on every sealing surface and machined surfaces of flanges (and such) before fitting them in place. I've yet to see oil leaks on any of our machinery from places where we use these.

So, I recommend em'. Also, a very straight file (I've found bent ones) with sand paper wrapped around them long-ways is also a good way to maintain an even surface without loosing much material.

By the way, has anyone thought of making an aluminum frame with an o-ring in it as a replacement gasket for the cam tower? Just a thought.

 

I'm sure there are and I'm sure its probably much more perfect for getting that mirror finish. All I was trying to say is that in a side by side comparison to some 1k-2k grit sand paper they may seem rough. The file that I lost somewhere was definitely finer grade.

Thanks for all the input. I will plan to deploy a few of these methods very soon.

 

Great thread! Thanks for posting. The first job I ever had was working part-time at a machine shop pushing a broom after school. After high school I was employed full time as a machinist making various parts for deep-well turbine pumps. My mentor and boss was an old school hard *** that I dearly loved. One of the first things I learned was never take a file to a machined surface. One sure way to get a slap in the back of the head (this method of correction was later perfected by Special Agent Jethro Gibbs of NCIS fame!) was to be caught with a adapter-plate in one hand and a file in the other! Now I know that not everybody has a machine shop at there disposal and files seem to be the prevailing tool of choice for most do-it-yourselfers for addressing small defects in machine surfaces. Their are alternatives to this.(However if you must use a file use a good quality "dressing file" sold by some of the higher-end tool makers) My preferred method is to use a flat piece of industrial glass 1/2" thick or better. The glass with the wire mesh is best for durability's sake. Size will depend on the object you are working with. Next coat the surface and the glass with valve grinding compound. The premixed is the handiest. next is to work the piece in a circular motion until the burr or imperfection is level with the machine surface. This will leave the surface flat and also prep the surface for your favorite gasket sealing compound. I like "Gasgacinch" although it may not be readily available at your local Autozone it can be had on line. It works great and remains relatively pliable even after years of heat-cycles so it is much easier to remove the next time you work in that area. Which leads to the logical question. "What's the best way to remove dead gasket material?" Rule of thumb: Never use a material that is harder than the surface you are working on. This is the root cause of most of the filing that most people wind up doing after gasket removal. Since most of our work involves working with aluminum, copper is the best material. I make my gasket scrapers out of copper tubing. For a couple bucks you can make them in size specific to the area you are working. 1 inch down to 3/8th inch and sizes in between work best. If you by a foot of each you will probably have enough to make two of each. Next use a vice (or hammer) to flatten the tubing about a half-inch to an inch from the end depending on size. Next turn the tubing around with the flat end up in the vice. With your trusty file, blend the edge to a nice smooth, sharpe edge. I like to use an air sander for this. Now you have a cheap and easy gasket removal tool that won't gouge or score your pricey machine surface. Sorry about being so long winded. Too much time on my hands! -Dave

 

Thanks for the tips! Long winded is sometimes best!

 

Wow all that info was perfect! All of that is useful for my future clean up projects. Notes taken!

 

Dave, that's the best post I've read all year. Thanks for sharing!

 

My pleasure!