MAGK944

There are a number of reasons to delete the tb's, reindexing every time you want to change ride height with coilivers becomes old fast. Plus you really cannot run a high spring rate at the back with tb's fitted, iirc the Club Sports had a 300# spring with tb's fitted and you will be looking at 400+
Another reason is you can lighten the rear end considerably by removing the tb's and also remove the "banana arms" from the tb carrier. Finally, you can corner balance much easier without those tb's affecting anything, simply need to wrench the coil over collars.

mikey_audiogeek

The H&R RSS coilovers are these shocks with 400/850 springs.

Cheers,
Mike

Player0

What do you guys think about adjustable shocks? Lindsey sells the Intrax RSAs. I don't see a lot of people running them. But they do allow for quick adjustments. So I can quickly firm things up for the track, but still have a softer ride. Do you think this might be a better option for someone like me who has a dual purpose set up in mind?

I have a lot of experience with Bilstein in other cars and they've always been a quality shock which is why I immediately gravitated to the Escort Cups to begin with. Plus there is a ton of positive feed back out there on those shocks, except for the fact that they're an older design without any adjustability.

The Intrax have the thermal compensation as well. I don't know how well that works but it seems interesting.

james6speed

The biggest problem I see with the RSA's would be the lack of support. Here is an email I got back from them a couple of weeks ago about their products recently when I just wanted to order the front coilovers.


Hello James, For us it's no problem to sell you only the front shocks of our RSA system. Of course it's better to have Intrax all the way around and if that's already the case I can also offer you to let them refurbish them by us.In this overhaul we renew the oil, the seals and the O-rings. For this we have to take the whole shocka apart. If there are more things that need renewel we will call you first with the total costs.We can't look what it will cost to sent the shocks from the US to holland, but to sent them back it will cost € 175,00 for the front two and € 230,00 for 4 shocks. This will make a total off4 x overhaul RSA = 4 x € 100,00 = € 400,-- + € 230,00 = € 630,00 ex VAT2 x overhaul RSA = 2 x € 100,00 = € 200,00 + € 175,00 = € 375,00 ex VAT Now the costs of two new RSA shocks.

As you probably know all our shocks are custom made, so when you decide to order the set with us we need to know as much as possible about ypur car. With this information we can make the best base setting for your car. The RSA dampers are equipped with externally adjustable damping and adjustable in height. Intrax chooses one **** for the damping adjustment. With this one **** you can set different damping settings ( see your manual, with how many clicks your system is equipped) When you adjust the ****, both rebound and compression will be adjusted in the correct damping force. This unique system makes it very easy to find the correct setup for your driving style and road conditions. Finally the damping system is equipped with a heat device (thermostat) to insure damping force stability and optimum performance during all different operation temperatures.


For the RSA version we have a 40mm upside-down shock absorber.Picture 1; 40mm RSA front shock absorberOption: Black TitanThe shock absorber set can be equipped with the “Black Titan” coating, which will be applied on the guidance- and piston rod. Black Titan is an development from military aircraft industry. Their engines must perform under the toughest conditions, they must function from +40°C up to -30°C. After they fitted their engines with Black Titan, the service interval was increased by 100%. Intrax decided that what is good for their airplane engines must be good for our shock absorbers. The Black Titan coating, which will be applied on the guidance- and piston rod, cannot rust and is extreme hard and smooth. The friction is lowered with these piston rods, reducing oil temperatures, improving traction and extending life time under the severest conditions. 2 front shocks RSA Porsche 944 with camberplates € 1.320,002 front shocks RSA Porsche 944 without camberplates € 1.150,00 Option:Black Titan on both shocks € 250,00 If there are any more questions please call or mail us. Wr hope to hera from you soon With kind regards, Donald MolenaarIntraxsales@intraxracing.nlLeeuwstraat 68, 5408 PL Volkel, The NetherlandsT: +31(0)413-272997F: +31(0)413-273319www.intraxracing.nl Intrax levert volgens de algemene verkoop, leverings en betalingsvoorwaarden gedeponeerd bij de Kvk nr. 16044117Intrax delivers according to the sales, delivery and payment conditions as filed at the Chamber of Commerce Nr. 16044117 Algemene voorwaarden

Player0

I went with the Bilsteins with 350 front and 450 rear springs. Here's hoping for some warm install weather!

So the rear shock bolts are a M12 x 125mm upper and a M14 x 85mm lower. The escort cups use rubber bushings so I don't need any special adapters like the racers-edge bolt.

But if there is a way to make these bolts safer, I'd like to hear it.

Some people have recommended safety wire. I don't own a jig or a drill press. Is there a source for buying pre-drilled bolts in these sizes? I'm not sure what I would safety wire them to either.

Also, is it safe going up to a higher grade bolt? I don't know what stock grade is. Is it grade 8.8, 10.9, etc? Would a higher grade bolt be safer in this arrangement? Or would they be more brittle for the shearing load? I'd rather have bend than break.

Is thread lock recommended?

Player0

450 is what Lindsey recommended since I went through them. I wanted to err on the softer side for now anyway. I might try stiffer springs later once I have a better feel for it.

Good to know about the thread locker, I'll avoid it. I guess I'll keep it simple then. Thanks!

Player0

Well, I'll be hauling it in to a pro Porsche performance shop for tech inspection soon. I'll have to find out if the springs they sold me are going to be a bad match. I'd like to be able to calculate the correct numbers myself, but most information I find is for pure race set ups.

Player0

Well, I meant the information to double check my numbers. I mean, I can read through this, calculate the rates, and if you used this same information, I may end up with the same rates you ended up with. But there are others using 350/450 on these shocks. You say it's wrong and you may well be right. I know absolutely nothing and have no right to an opinion on which springs would be correct.

It's concerning though if a 450# spring won't be enough to rebound the rear shocks quickly enough. Do you have the calculations somewhere on that? What are the valve rates on your HD shocks?

Player0

It looks like just based on ratios with the t-bar delete that 550 is a better value for weight distribution on the car. I keep seeing that front springs should be about 66% of rear springs with the t-bar delete because of their position on the rear arm.

Funn944

When I did my Ground Control setup I used 250 lb springs and left the t-bars where they where, just used the eccentrics to lower the rear. I used Weltmeister stage II sways front and rear with Koni sports all around. Handles really well on the track (even though many have told me that it wouldn't handle well with the t-bars not being re-indexed ) 250 lb springs are about as stiff as I'd want to go with a daily driver.

MAGK944

A lot of people with different configurations here that seem to work. Don't forget ours cars have a weight difference of about 350# between the early 44's and the 51's and most of that weight difference is at the front. What works for one car might not be as good on another. Think of the advise given as a starting point and tweak from there to suit your car, driving style, requirements, etc.

james6speed

Listen to Robstah, he knows enough about this setup. I personally would go would go with 400# in the front and 650# w/t-bar delete and add the Racer's Edge mounts. Are you going to run a pillow ball/camber plate setup or the stock top mounts in the front?

Also, if you stay with the 350# F proportionally I think you would want something in the 550# range as mentioned. 450# isn't going to cut it without the support of a T-bar, its too soft.

Player0

Yeah, it looks like the 550 number is correct. I'll switch it up. Thanks guys.

GARG

Hi guys
I am in the same boat. My car is still on stands so i cant get the ride height dim to calculate spring length.
Looks like 350 x 550 is my starting point. What length would be in the ballpark.
tks

svtlrtls

Hi Guys,
Old thread, new update.
I went with the Ground Control kit with 380 fronts and 175 helpers in the rear as per Jay's recommendation. I've only driven the car a few times and it's still settling in but so far I'm pleased.

Cheers