nofalls

Texbuckeye - I do not know of a way to strengthen that bond. If the material is urethane you could squirt some more in there but I suspect it would just be a mess and fail in the near future.

My latest attempt showed some promise but also new way not to do it. The epoxy primer was pulled off the frame in spots. I had high hopes for it though. It got me to thinking about cure times, temps and humidity requirements. In the factory we use a number of polysulfide based bondings. They have to have humidity just like the moisture cure one part urethanes that are common for auto glass work. Heating above 72f or putting in a bucket of water do not really help. In fact direct water contact can ruin the bonding itself. I realized I am not controling a few factors. In this last attempt the glass and frame were left in my garage ~50-60f for two days before installing to the car. I also clamped the frame to the glass without using spacer blocks to control the thickness of the bonding. Lastly I know the frame does not fit the glass well. In fact the glass and hatch frame are a mix of the last two hatches I had. The glass broke in the first one and the second frame was damaged after I forgot it on the car and drove to the store. It fell off and was run over. This means that there are stresses working on pulling the bond apart as soon as the clamps come off. Why the primer fails and pulls away from the glass I still have not figured out. Perhaps better surface prep or a hair dryer to flash the primer will help.

I think I may buy a separating hatch from 20th street in Phoenix and see if I have better luck with the fit. My next attempt will use 1/4" spacer blocks to insure the thickness of the bonding under the clamps and the hatch will come inside. It will be wrapped in plastic with several spritzes of water or a bowl in there to keep the humidity up. 3M states full cure in 72 hours at 72f and 60% or so humidity. This was obviously not done last time.

If anyone is curious - yes, I drove into work without a hatch today. The heater works quite well but it was still a bit chilly.

Texbuckeye

Well it looks like a drive to Oklahoma Foreign is the verdict. I want to check it out anyway as it is only 2.5 hours from where I live. If I don't like any of the hatches they have I guess it will just be a long parts run.

nofalls

Sounds like fun. I love wrecking yards. Best of luck in your search.

Texbuckeye

We desperately need a good aftermarket solution to this issue. A new one can only come from Porsche for $6200.

86 951 Driver

There are places that will professional reseal them. After I had mine resealed my top trim didn't fit anymore. I should have straightened the frame before the glass was glued back in. I don't have any leaks now and it appears to be a good bond.

nofalls

Good information Driver. How long ago was it done?

86 951 Driver

It has been a few months now.

aj986s

FWIW, X2 on not replacing the hatch struts with new ones. Over time, the original painted on adhesive (now a scattered mess of black paint shards around the inner side of the glass) is long gone, and the new/strong struts simply pull the glass away from the frame.

Also, look at the top edge of the glass, and you'll see a series of small dimples in the glass. I read that these should be up against the frame's edge when the glass is fully inserted; used by the factory to confirm placement before applying the adhesive. There's about 1/2" of glass beyond the dimples. So depending upon how far the dimples are from the frame's edge can tell you the condition of the separation.

nofalls

Good advice. I use the dimples as a reference when I finish and put the trim back on. If they do not show the glass is against the frame. Because the trim piece is attached to the frame the more the dimples show the further the frame is away.

86 951 Driver - I've had a couple tries last that long. If the trim piece is not on (won't fit anyway) you have a good chance to see if it does early on. I hope it lasts forever!

In case anyone is still reading this. What is a separated hatch worth? I called 20th in Phoenix and Matt wanted $100. Seems steep to me for an already failing hatch that he can't sell.

Crackership

nofalls - hatches are one of those things... I've turned away several free ones, and then I've been quoted hundreds for used ones as well. I suppose they're worth exactly what someone will pay for them.. I wouldn't pay much at all for a separated one.

aj986s

Has anyone ever tried using a ratcheting strap to squeeze the glass back into the frame? I'm currently dismantling a parts car, and it has a gap at the top of the rear glass. I was going to try and see if I could repair it before taking it to the dump.

Texbuckeye

Please post your results. If you have one you can put on to replace it that is certainly worth a try. I will post pics on Saturday when we get back.

nofalls

There was a thread here with a guy that ran straps top to bottom in two places iirc and straps left to right and then put sand bags on the glass with the frame on the car. Never heard if it worked out for him.

m73m95

If anyone is willing to drive to CA, last I knew, Lart had a killer deal on hatches. I don't think he's willing to ship them, but it wouldn't hurt to ask.

nofalls

Shoot, if I could get a couple of bad hatches and perfect the reseal process (and if wishes were fishes) I could do a hatch swap deal. Actual cost of what I have been doing is about $35 a try with window weld, primer and epoxy primer. I'm not looking to make money on this idea. I just think it would be a cool thing to do for other '44 owners. Pay back or pay it forward type thing.