m.e.mccray

To me - the tensioner should have enough adjustment to make the belt install reasonably easy. I am thinking I might take the adjuster back off, and try to create some more release adjustment in the spring assy. (those of you who have seen the auto tensioner will know the spring assy I mean - on the back of the auto tensioner.)

Trouble is - I'm not sure how far I can take the adjustment without causing the whole thing to get out of whack.

Any ideas? All of this stems from the difficulty of getting a new belt in place.

Marshall McCray

Perry 951

You have the tensioner compressed all the way? I have never had a situation where it was too tight.

Are you sure you have the right belt? I think the older models without the tensioner had a shorter belt.

Be sure you have the right parts and that you have compressed the tensioner as far as possible.

TIP - do not take the tensioner apart. It is very hard to get back together, and you will mess up the correct spring tension!!

m.e.mccray

I think the tensioner is compressed all the way. I used the spanner wrench to push it as far back as it will go and then locked it down with the bolt.
Best I can tell is it has bottomed out the tensioner spring - so I assume that is as far as it can be released.

I have tried the belt that came off of it, and have the same difficulty. Should the belt go on and off easily?

Perry 951

It should be fairly easy. Try to put it on everything but the cam sprocket. Do that last. This way you have a little leverage from the top.

Othet than that... I would say you have something not right. If you have the tensioner compressed and cannot get the old belt on, start looking at all the idlers and everything you replaced and be sure you have them all in their correct positions.

Let us know how it goes.

m.e.mccray

I've got the tensioner fully compressed - I even tried removing the lock bolt thinking I could gain some more travel, but didn't. The belt number is the same as the one that came off. The only things in the loop are; camgear, crankgear, tensioner roller, and waterpump pulley. I left the idlers off will put on when I get the belt on - should be simple to install them then. I'm trying to get as much clearance as possible for the belt.

To me the problem is that the tensioner doesn't have enough release room - and I have pulled it as tight as I can. Just fyi - the tensioner releases as I move it counter clockwise...?

Geeezzzzzzz.

Marshall

m.e.mccray

I have checked everything I know to do. The tensioner is backed as far as it will go and still not enough clearance to install the belt. I would have to use a pry bar on the belt to even begin to get it on.

Are there any adjustments on the tensioner that would give more release? If the tensioner would allow another 1/4 or so movement job would be complete!

ADVICE ANYONE??!!

Marshall
87 944S - project in stall mode.

C DeVito

Seems like a stupid question but are you sure you're on the small timing sprocket hidden behind the one for the balance shafts on the crank, that is almost impossible to see? When the tensioner is fully open the spring coils are all touching each other.

Carmen
89 951

m.e.mccray

Yep, in fact I have the balance shaft belt crank sprocket off (did the crank/oil pump seals. Routing is fine, I even have the upper and lower cam belt rollers off to gain a little extra length. Belt fits fine without the tensioner - if the tensioner would just give me a little more release movement - it would fit too.

jim968

Just a thought... I was looking in the Performnce Products catalog just now, and they show a different part number for the 944S / S2 / 968 than for the 924S / 944 / 944T. Price is also $5.00 higher.

I have no idea what the difference is, maybe just width. But I think that with the problems you're having, you need to be really, absolutely sure that you have the right belt for your application. This is _not_ a place where I'd want to be making backyard modifications to the tensioner, etc.

Anyway, good luck, and let us know what you find out.

Jim, aware that a Turbo timing belt is good for 10 hp on any na car, but only if it fits...

m.e.mccray

Got the belt on!!!! It does take some finesse, but to state what acutally happened:

I revisited the tensioner, and looking very closely found that the lip of the new tensioner roller was bottoming on a bolt on the oil pump. Since this was a new bolt that I had replaced while the pump was out, I simply removed it. I gained just a little more release from the tensioner that I was able to work the belt onto the cam gear, etc.

Case solved.

All that's left is to check tension, roll her over to make sure I don't bend every valve in the beast, and recheck the tension.

Wish me luck! If it doesn't work you'll probably here the screams all the way to the west coast!

By the way if the Turbo belt would give an extra 25 hp - I wouldn't pull this sucker off again!!!

Marshall