CV Joint UPDATE
#1
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CV Joint UPDATE
I pulled my driver's side CV axle over the weekend. Discovered that sure enough one of the joints is shot. The inboard (closest to tranny) CV joint had major scoring in three of the inner race bearings. (those bearings were also black - over heated right?)
Well I repacked them and reinstalled them as I did not have replacements on hand. (ordering them today).
What I did notice is that up until Saturday I had been experiencing a noticeable clunk when I brought my car to a stop. I thought it was the auto tranny downshifting from 3rd to 1st. But it now appears to be the bad CV joint as it unloaded the torque and the bearings settle into or out of the scored areas, because its not occurring with the fresh repack. I'm sure it won't take long for it to start happening again though.
Looking for Advice:
Should I fork out $300 now for all four joint kits, or just replace my driver side. I'm not keen on pulling the passenger side, and spending all the messy time cleaning them, only to find they should be replaced as well. Or maybe pulling them and repacking them now will spare them the same fate as the driver's side. Open for advice - thanks.
Well I repacked them and reinstalled them as I did not have replacements on hand. (ordering them today).
What I did notice is that up until Saturday I had been experiencing a noticeable clunk when I brought my car to a stop. I thought it was the auto tranny downshifting from 3rd to 1st. But it now appears to be the bad CV joint as it unloaded the torque and the bearings settle into or out of the scored areas, because its not occurring with the fresh repack. I'm sure it won't take long for it to start happening again though.
Looking for Advice:
Should I fork out $300 now for all four joint kits, or just replace my driver side. I'm not keen on pulling the passenger side, and spending all the messy time cleaning them, only to find they should be replaced as well. Or maybe pulling them and repacking them now will spare them the same fate as the driver's side. Open for advice - thanks.
#2
I am in the same boat as you. But opposite sides. I only purchase one side and I'm waiting on new bolts to do the work.
Question, did any of the boots look bad? Theorically(sp), the CV's shouldn't go bad as long as their is grease in there, and there should be grease in there as long as the boots aren't ripped.
Question, did any of the boots look bad? Theorically(sp), the CV's shouldn't go bad as long as their is grease in there, and there should be grease in there as long as the boots aren't ripped.
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Boots looked good. Its the heat from the exhaust that typically breaks down the grease on the driver's side, leading to joint failure.
Also, I believe scheduled maintenace dictates repacking every 30,000 miles
fyi: I have read where earlier model 944s were shipped from factory with insufficient amounts of grease in the joints.
Also, I believe scheduled maintenace dictates repacking every 30,000 miles
fyi: I have read where earlier model 944s were shipped from factory with insufficient amounts of grease in the joints.
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Had to do my CV joints this summer. After a lot of searching for rebuild kits or a reasonable joint replacement, I broke down and had CarQuest do both axles (all four joints) at $64/axle. That comes out to $32 per joint. I would also agree with the statement that most joints are shipped with insufficient grease. Add some before assembly and just before you put the axle in the car- add a little more.
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Tom:
I fork out $300 now for all four joint kits
I fork out $300 now for all four joint kits
Boots can be re-used if you want to take the chance...
Just replace the CV joints, not the shaft, saves a lot of money.
The CV joints leave the manufacturing plant with absolute minimum grease. You need to add a lot, Proper replacement kits will come with an additional tube of grease.
If you have to reduceon funds, you can do both CV joints attached to the gear box.
Always replace in pairs, both inner or both outer joints.
Has something to do with the impulse load on the bearing, the more used one on the opposite side starts to were faster.
Take care
#6
Tom,
Also, check on E-bay. Often you can find an entire axle assembly 2 CV joints and shaft up for auction. Brand new or new rebuilt for $150. Easier install.
Good luck.
Max
Also, check on E-bay. Often you can find an entire axle assembly 2 CV joints and shaft up for auction. Brand new or new rebuilt for $150. Easier install.
Good luck.
Max
#7
Is the grease in the boots dryed out in both axels? I would replace all four if I were you, when I ordered my four from Vertexauto they had no grease in or with them, I checked with Carquest but I was told they refurbish the joints and I don't like to do refurb parts like that. I used Vavoline synthetic CV grease in mine.
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I wish I would have checked before I did mine for nearly double the cost and not even new ones (just repacked)...
But I believe Performance Products has complete axle/cv joint rebuilt kits for 200 each (that's including core).
-Matt
But I believe Performance Products has complete axle/cv joint rebuilt kits for 200 each (that's including core).
-Matt
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No grease in boots is not dried out, and none of them are leaking. Just have heavy scoring on inner joint. Ordered 4 new ones from Jason/Paragon on Tuesday. Thanks for input.
Hey Max, can I borrow your torque wrench
Hey Max, can I borrow your torque wrench
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I ordered 4 complete kits (joints, boots, bolts, grease, and washers) for about $75 each.
This weekend is not looking promising (I have to build a shed )
I had planned to replace my idle control valve over Thanksgiving, but may have the time to do the joints as well.
This weekend is not looking promising (I have to build a shed )
I had planned to replace my idle control valve over Thanksgiving, but may have the time to do the joints as well.