ANOTHER 944 no start issue
#1
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Folks,
Just drove the S2 to work this AM and it is COLD here in Texas!! Car started at the house just fine, but noticed a clicking sound under dash on Passenger side while still in the driveway that sounded like the noise a hazzard signal makes (about same sound and frequency). The car ran fine the whole way to work (but continued to make the clicking noise), and when I shut it off the car kept making the noise, but the noise slowy died down to almost inaudible over about 2 minutes. I then tried starting the car and it wouldn't start (but turned over fine).
I replaced the DME about 3 months ago due to a hot start issue (wouldn't do it) and all was fine after the swap until today. Not sure if the cold has done something to the DME.
ANy thoughts? Because I am at work, this is a very new issue. I am going to go try and start the car in a few minutes, but figured I would check here as I might be stranded at work. I will let you know if it starts in a few minutes....
Just drove the S2 to work this AM and it is COLD here in Texas!! Car started at the house just fine, but noticed a clicking sound under dash on Passenger side while still in the driveway that sounded like the noise a hazzard signal makes (about same sound and frequency). The car ran fine the whole way to work (but continued to make the clicking noise), and when I shut it off the car kept making the noise, but the noise slowy died down to almost inaudible over about 2 minutes. I then tried starting the car and it wouldn't start (but turned over fine).
I replaced the DME about 3 months ago due to a hot start issue (wouldn't do it) and all was fine after the swap until today. Not sure if the cold has done something to the DME.
ANy thoughts? Because I am at work, this is a very new issue. I am going to go try and start the car in a few minutes, but figured I would check here as I might be stranded at work. I will let you know if it starts in a few minutes....
#2
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OK - so car fired up no problem, no more clicking and drove it home without incident. Pulled it into the garage and shut it off. Then tried to start it and clicking was back and it would sputter to life then die. Did that 3 times and then on the 4th try it just turned over without firing, so I left it.
Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated. Not sure if there are other things besides the DME on passenger side of the car that would click like that, but hoping this will not mean I need to buy my another DME......
Thanks!
Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated. Not sure if there are other things besides the DME on passenger side of the car that would click like that, but hoping this will not mean I need to buy my another DME......
Thanks!
#3
Burning Brakes
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That clicking under the dash is most likely the ambient cabin temperature solenoid controlling the HVAC. Mine used to do that as well. Probably not related to the cold start issue which may more likely be a result of a failing DME temp sensor or associated wiring at the front of the engine block.
#4
Drifting
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Could be the factory alarm module going bad. They will click like that. How one in over the sumner that would do the same thing. Traced it down to a bad door lock actuator that would cause the alarm to not switch off
#5
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Would the alarm cause the car to not start? Never had this issue before today and the car only started when the clicking was not present. When it was clicking, it would not start. Also, once I got it home and tried to start the car, it would start and then would cut off while the clicking was going off. Seemed like something was killing the engine.
Is there a way to bypass the alarm module to see if that is the deal?
Thanks!!
#7
Rennlist Member
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Yep, that's exactly what the alarm will do when activated - horn on, horn off, horn on, etc. It will be just like a turn signal. Someone must have clipped the wire to the horn.
Go to clarks-garage.com to see how to bypass the alarm.
Go to clarks-garage.com to see how to bypass the alarm.
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#8
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Thanks!!
#10
Instructor
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I agree with the Alarm. They are run thru your ignition switch, that way even if it is set to silent, and someone is trying to steal the car, it wont start. Sounds like its malfunctioning and not doing its job properly.
I had a similar issue with my aftermarket alarm in my '44. Suddenly just started going off for no reason. I would turn it off, but it would start going off again with in a minute, but then the alarm sound would be as quiet as a bee buzzing around, and my car wouldnt want to start.
I had to trace all the wires coming from the alarm brain. First finding the ground and constant power wires/leads. They should be the biggest gauge of wires. From there you find the wire that runs to your ignition. Disconnect that if it is just spliced in with a crimp style wire splice. The stereo might also be run thru the alarm. Check for that. If not, thats one less thing you have to worry about.
If the alarm is only effecting how the car runs, and isnt connected to anything else, then you should be able to just disconnect it from the ignition, and cut the brain power.
Also, hopefully you have manual windows and locks. I do, so that was another thing I was blessed not to have to figure out how to bypass. Hahaha. I have still yet to completely remove the alarm brain. There is so many wires, I wouldnt know where to begin. All I know is, I got it to shut up. Got my car to start, and had to rewire a constant power and the ignition power for my stereo. Everything else works as it should.
I had a similar issue with my aftermarket alarm in my '44. Suddenly just started going off for no reason. I would turn it off, but it would start going off again with in a minute, but then the alarm sound would be as quiet as a bee buzzing around, and my car wouldnt want to start.
I had to trace all the wires coming from the alarm brain. First finding the ground and constant power wires/leads. They should be the biggest gauge of wires. From there you find the wire that runs to your ignition. Disconnect that if it is just spliced in with a crimp style wire splice. The stereo might also be run thru the alarm. Check for that. If not, thats one less thing you have to worry about.
If the alarm is only effecting how the car runs, and isnt connected to anything else, then you should be able to just disconnect it from the ignition, and cut the brain power.
Also, hopefully you have manual windows and locks. I do, so that was another thing I was blessed not to have to figure out how to bypass. Hahaha. I have still yet to completely remove the alarm brain. There is so many wires, I wouldnt know where to begin. All I know is, I got it to shut up. Got my car to start, and had to rewire a constant power and the ignition power for my stereo. Everything else works as it should.
#12
Burning Brakes
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if you fit the 3x wire bypass in place of the DME relay the car should start . the bypass should bypass any alarm or immobiliser and force power to the fuel pump, injectors, ECU, sensors, etc.
The factory alarm cuts the feed to the DME relay from terminal 15 of the ignition switch. The 3xwire bypass will bypass this disconnection by the alarm . Alternatively you can permanently bypass the factory alarm using the Clarkes garage link others have provided.
Aftermarket alarms /immobilisers vary in their operation. There are lots of wires you can cut into, that will disable a 944 .You'll need to download the alarm schematic if you can find the manufacturers name.
The noise sounds like a relay clicking in and out and could be unrelated. It might be your door courtesy light switches as others have mentioned. Why not get someone to get into the car and try start whilst you identify where the clicking is coming from under the hood ?![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
I suspect that it is the cold that is causing the problem and it could be a faulty cold start mechanism which enriches your fuel for cold starting
The factory alarm cuts the feed to the DME relay from terminal 15 of the ignition switch. The 3xwire bypass will bypass this disconnection by the alarm . Alternatively you can permanently bypass the factory alarm using the Clarkes garage link others have provided.
Aftermarket alarms /immobilisers vary in their operation. There are lots of wires you can cut into, that will disable a 944 .You'll need to download the alarm schematic if you can find the manufacturers name.
The noise sounds like a relay clicking in and out and could be unrelated. It might be your door courtesy light switches as others have mentioned. Why not get someone to get into the car and try start whilst you identify where the clicking is coming from under the hood ?
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
I suspect that it is the cold that is causing the problem and it could be a faulty cold start mechanism which enriches your fuel for cold starting
#13
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THanks Folks - sounds like this is exactly was has happened! I know the horn is not hooked up to the alarm so makes sense for the "click on, click off" thing. I do have power doors and windows, but hopefully Clarks Garage will be able to tell me how to bypass the whole thing.
Thanks again and Happy New Year!
Thanks again and Happy New Year!
#14
Burning Brakes
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If you read my previous post you'll see that I discribed how to bypass everything .!![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Fitting the 3x wire DME relay bypass is very straightforward and is part of the recommended test proceedure by Bosch. It will also bypass any alarm system fitted . If you are uncertain how to do it I will willingly describe the proceedure in detail .
What it does is provide a constant 12v+ power supply to all the critical components of the fuel injection and ignition systems for starting and running the car and is an important diagnostic test as well.
If you don't read , trust and follow expert advice what is the point of asking for help ?
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Fitting the 3x wire DME relay bypass is very straightforward and is part of the recommended test proceedure by Bosch. It will also bypass any alarm system fitted . If you are uncertain how to do it I will willingly describe the proceedure in detail .
What it does is provide a constant 12v+ power supply to all the critical components of the fuel injection and ignition systems for starting and running the car and is an important diagnostic test as well.
If you don't read , trust and follow expert advice what is the point of asking for help ?
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)