pontifex4

My 968 is off the road for the winter, and I have the following to take care of:

• Rear crank seal
• Oil pan gasket
• Front seals
• Possibly motor mounts
• AOS seals

I also have a lift. Is it worth it to pull the engine? I've never done that, and don't know how.

F18Rep

Its a lot of work but I would. Other stuff, get a good look at the #2 rod bearing, a peek at the clutch/release bearing. I've never done it with a lift, that might help some....Bruce

jeffrsmith

It is much easier to work on an engine on a stand. I am told the time/effort to remove the engine is no more than the tranny/torque tube.

Fara

Personally, for that list I'd pull the engine. Especially if you have access to a lift.

shortyboy

Do searches in the 944 turbo,lots of information on pulling motors..ive pulled mine through the bottom with a carpet and lifted the car 2feet to pull the engine from the sides.some say above,I've personally done it below and its easier than dropping the trans(which I've done also).a word of caution, don't get sucked in and start buying/replacing things "while your in there",you probably will end up with a bigger bill than planned.im guilty of doing that,lol..good luck,there's a wealth of knowledge here on the list

pontifex4

Thanks for your input, everyone. Looking at the 968 engine bay, it looks as though it would be easier just to pull the engine out the top: unlike the 944s I remember, with the rad and removable cross piece removed, there is over 6" of room for the engine to come forward and out, and I could leave the suspension connected, which is important because I want the car to be a roller over the winter. The hood has to come off anyway for a repaint, so that's going to happen one way or the other.

Are my priorities skewed here? Has anyone pulled a 968 engine out the top?

gwest1984

Just pulled mine this morning. Lift 2-3 feet, Disconnect necessary hoses, wires. Attach engine hoist. Remove TT bolts, Xmember to A arm and intermediate shaft, lower and pull forward to clear drive shaft. Lower engine. Remove hoist, lift Porsche, re-attach hoist.

I keep a spare Xmember handy to quickly bolt back in as I prefer to still have mine attached when dropping my engines.

pontifex4

Thanks, Greg. What does keeping the cross member attached do for you?

shortyboy

He most likely left the cross member attached with the suspension and just dropped the whole assembly and lifted the front of the car 2-3 feet in the air and dropped the whole assembly on the floor.

pontifex4

I have the engine out. I went out through the top, but because I forgot that 968s have a collapsible torque tube, I ended up dropping the cross member as well because the engine couldn't slide forward enough to clear it otherwise. The next time I do this, I probably won't need to. Not that I'm keen to do it again right away.

Anyway, the engine is on the stand, but it's really top-heavy. Have I connected it to the stand incorrectly?

krystar

looks good. stand isn't going to tip over. not unless you're trying torque on the crank bolt or something.

but that position does make it really hard to change the rear main seal.

pontifex4

Agreed. I think I'll set it on the ground to do the rear seal.

I looked at the engine stand's mounting plate for a while to see if I could put it in a different configuration that lowered the engine any, but I was too dumb to figure it out.

krystar

if u hook up the engine hoist again and pull the engine+stand so it's just barely hovering, u can unbolt the stand from the engine. then loosen up all the arms, drop the engine down couple inches and spin the plate and see if u can get it to better configuration. but usually i just leave it .

F18Rep

I get nervous sometimes if its going to sit for awhile and stick a 18" 2x4 support strut under it... just an ounce of prevention. The 928's wsm actually prescribes one. Of course its much prettier than my 2x4. ;]...Bruce

pontifex4

Krystar, thanks. Good thinking.

Will do. Thanks, Bruce!