stogie25

Due to a wiring harness that melted in the area of the driver's side marker lights I had to replace the wiring harness today with one from a salvage yard. The installation was fairly straight forward. The harness went from the battery to the fuse box, and from the fuse box around the front of the car.

The car, which was running fine when I pulled in a couple of weeks ago will not start now. I don't think I missed any connectors on the harness. There is no tach bounce. I tried my spare DME relay. I resistance checked my coil (as the coil wires are part of this harness).

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Fara

No tach bounce is normally associated with the speed/ref sensors. Make sure you didn't accidentally knock the connectors loose. If you did the wiring harness, you would have likely been working in the area.

If the connectors are good, you'd want to check the gapping on the sensors.

flash75

Have you checked for 12 volts at the coil? Be sure the wires to the coil aren't reversed. I assume your starter is cranking the engine over.

Clifton

stogie25

That is what I was thinking for tomorrow because of the no teach bounce. I just have to figure out where the reference sensors connect and see if I pulled them out.

stogie25

12v at coil when the coil is disconnected and the key is on.

stogie25

All fuses checked.

Adker

Is there power on the injector plugs?

stogie25

Yes.

I checked the connectors for the speed and reference sensors. Still no start. No spark. No tach bounce.

peanut

1. have you got 12v+ at terminal 30 on the DME relay base with the ignition off ?
2. have you got 12v+ at terminals 85 and 86 and 87 on the DME relay base with the ignition on ?
3. Check continuity between terminal 85 on the DME relay base and a chassis earth anywhere with ignition off ,to prove terminal 85 is earthed

4. If this checks out ok then check the ECU and DME relay earth points MPll and MPlll under the dash next to the fuse relay box (large brown wires) these are cruicial earths

5. fit a 3x wire bypass in place of the DME relay check that the fuel pump is running continuously .
Try cranking the engine and check for spark at plugs
6 check spark plugs for fuel

let us know how this goes

stogie25

12v at 30 with ignition off = YES
85 12v, 86 nothing, 87 5v with ignition on
85 is a good ground with ignition off.
The under dash brown wires all check to ground.
No tach bounce.
No spark.

Fara

Did the harness you put in have the connector for an alarm module?

If yes, did you ensure you "jumped" it appropriately?

stogie25

I have never had to deal with an alarm. That is good thinking!!! I don't know if it did. Where would it be? Is there a write up for jumping it?

Adker

Alarm bypass
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-23.htm

peanut

ok 86 should have 12v+ with ignition on . The 12v+ comes from terminal 15 on the ignition switch .

You either have a faulty ignition switch or there is a break on the wire from t15 of the ignition switch to T86 on the base of the DME relay.

You need to get 12v+ to T86 in order for the ECU to earth the second DME relay and power the pump, injectors, and ignition.

If you fit the 3x wire bypass as described on Clarkes garage workshop manual it should bypass the fault and power everything so you can start the engine.

You need to jumper DME relay socket terminals 87 & 87b then 30 which is constantly live. let us know what happens

Adker

Power to pin 86 does come from the ignition switch, but it also passes through the alarm box. If you bypass the DME relay using the procedure in Clarks garage, and the car starts, bypass the alarm.

Funny, if you have power to the injectors, you HAVE to have voltage at pin 86 to turn on the DME relay. Are you measuring the voltage at the terminal with the DME relay installed?