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Hard start

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Old 12-12-2012, 07:10 PM
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PeteL
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Default Hard start

My car is giving me fits trying to start when cold. (As in hasn't run for a while)...it's 80 here in FL today.
I thought I was not getting fuel pressure. But that does not appear to be the case. As you can see in this video http://youtu.be/CxOjJxZRSpE the fuel pressure comes right up and stays even though the car is not starting. Eventually it will fire, run rough, die once or twice and then stay running.
The car is an 86 n/a and the engine was rebuilt last year, for a while things were great, but now it is a pain to get started.
Appreciate advice.
Old 12-12-2012, 07:19 PM
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Fara
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I'm assuming you've done the standard checks of the temp sensor?

Are you getting tach bounce every time you try to start?
Old 12-12-2012, 07:40 PM
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have not checked this particular temp sensor it was new with the rebuild. I have another. Can swap.
Tach bounces. Runs like a scalded cat once started and stabilized...good acceleration, smooth idle etc.
But we can definitely check the temp sensor.
Old 12-13-2012, 09:35 AM
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John_AZ
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Pete,
Nice inventory of vehicles.

The video is painful to listen to for the first 20 seconds.

quote- "The car is an 86 n/a and the engine was rebuilt last year, for a while things were great, but now it is a pain to get started."

Fara & sponsor 944 online have the same idea about the engine temp sensor:
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/for...num=1294677445

I tend to go back to basics when "for a while things were great" .

Positive battery connection, especially the small 3 wires. Clean and tighten. If the end is corroded, cut and replace with a military cable end (NAPA)

When you got the engine rebuilt, did you send the injectors to get cleaned, balanced and resealed? A leaky injector can cause "flooding" and hard starts.

Did you replace the FPR & FPD? Old parts cause problems with a rebuilt engine.

Clean and gap the reference sensors. Check the connector for cracks. bad pins, cracked sheilding or just replace if old.

Check for vacuum leaks. RL member mytrplseven made a simple tool:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/6192985-post1.html

Does the AFM "door" move freely"? Clean all electrical connections on top of engine.

GL
J_AZ
Old 12-13-2012, 11:56 AM
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Thanks for the reply - responses in bold below...

Originally Posted by John_AZ
Pete,
Nice inventory of vehicles. --Thanks!

The video is painful to listen to for the first 20 seconds. - I suck at editing video....

quote- "The car is an 86 n/a and the engine was rebuilt last year, for a while things were great, but now it is a pain to get started."

Fara & sponsor 944 online have the same idea about the engine temp sensor:
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/for...num=1294677445 Yes...the engine temp sensor is the only thing that is common to hard-starting AND rough running when cold. But it is relatively (with the rebuild) new.


I tend to go back to basics when "for a while things were great" .

Positive battery connection, especially the small 3 wires. Clean and tighten. If the end is corroded, cut and replace with a military cable end (NAPA) - I can certainly clean the connections and take a look.

When you got the engine rebuilt, did you send the injectors to get cleaned, balanced and resealed? A leaky injector can cause "flooding" and hard starts. -- Actually replaced the injectors with new ones.

Did you replace the FPR & FPD? Old parts cause problems with a rebuilt engine.
I have swapped the FPR, the damper was relatively new.

Clean and gap the reference sensors. Check the connector for cracks. bad pins, cracked sheilding or just replace if old.
-- I need to pull the sensors and take a look at them.

Check for vacuum leaks. RL member mytrplseven made a simple tool:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/6192985-post1.html
-- Will continue to look, but I think the vac system is tight.

Does the AFM "door" move freely"? Clean all electrical connections on top of engine. - The AFM door does move freely.

GL
J_AZ
Old 12-13-2012, 12:07 PM
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Pete, are you pressing the throttle at all when it doesn't want to start?
Next time it does this, try giving it ~80% throttle - it sounds to me like there is too much fuel.

Definitely check the coolant temp sensor (the one for the DME), and the associated wiring. If there is a short in the wiring, it will cause the DME to add a bunch of extra fuel.

The main battery -> engine ground is very important too. I even run a second supplemental ground to the block from the battery.

Finally, how old are you spark-plugs, and what gap?
Old 12-13-2012, 12:46 PM
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Rogue - Thanks...replies in bold.
Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant
Pete, are you pressing the throttle at all when it doesn't want to start? -- No, always foot off throttle when starting.

Next time it does this, try giving it ~80% throttle - it sounds to me like there is too much fuel. -- The fuel pressure at start-up appears to be in spec. (see you tube video) unless I am reading the gauge wrong. Would too much fuel show

Definitely check the coolant temp sensor (the one for the DME), and the associated wiring. If there is a short in the wiring, it will cause the DME to add a bunch of extra fuel. -- This seems to be a recurring theme.

The main battery -> engine ground is very important too. I even run a second supplemental ground to the block from the battery. -- I have upgraded battery cables installed (Light-shark)

Finally, how old are you spark-plugs, and what gap?
-new with the rebuild.
Old 12-13-2012, 12:55 PM
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OK,

This is what I see as a problem:

Clean and gap the reference sensors. Check the connector for cracks. bad pins, cracked sheilding or just replace if old.
-- I need to pull the sensors and take a look at them.

Check the flywheel pins when you pull the sensors.

COVER THE TDC HOLE WITH DUCT TAPE--do not let a bolt fall in the clutch

There are half price reference sensor interchanges available-usually a early '85 BMW will work.

J_AZ
Old 12-13-2012, 12:55 PM
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The fuel pressure looks good, but that doesn't mean the injectors are running too long of a pulse duration... which would be caused by the coolant temp / wiring and or the AFM sticking / bad.

By giving it some throttle when trying to start, you are adding air... if it is too rich, then adding air should help it start.

Good to hear that you have the upgraded cables! I still would double-check that the one going to the block/bellhousing is tight.
Old 12-13-2012, 01:15 PM
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When I get home from work, I will try to start with throttle depressed. Easy and cheap to do.

I will look at the coolant temp sensor. It is brand new with the rebuild, but that doesn't mean good.

Then I will check the speed/ref sensors.

Sounds like a fun night.
Old 12-13-2012, 01:49 PM
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BTW, my comment on the video was pertaining to the 20 seconds of grinding the starter- the video was fine.
J_AZ
Old 12-13-2012, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by John_AZ
BTW, my comment on the video was pertaining to the 20 seconds of grinding the starter- the video was fine.
J_AZ
OK.. my video editing ability still sucks.... thought you were talking about the delay from hitting record to getting in the car to start.
Old 12-13-2012, 04:53 PM
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Subscribed.
Old 12-13-2012, 05:17 PM
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The repeatability of it all is maddening. it is consistently hard to start, and it takes about the same number of attempts, with the same process. no fire, no fire, no fire. cough, cough, run and die, run and die..run -- poorly and eventually smooth out.
Just like the video. Wouldn't ref sensors be good, or not?
Old 12-13-2012, 05:37 PM
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The repeat-ability is a good thing - it makes diagnosis easier...

Reference sensors give a weaker signal at low engine speeds, but that doesn't sound like your issue. Your issue sounds like fueling.


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