968 Torque Tube removal
#1
968 Torque Tube removal
Folks,
I know on the 944s you need to drop the rear suspension in order to get the Torque tube out, but is this true of the 968 as well? I know the drive shaft is different in the TT on 968s and thought I would ask as you can do it on a 928 without dropping the suspension, and seems the TT on a 968 is somewhere in between the 944 and 928 design.
Basically I have some bad TT bearings and trying to understand what will be needed to get out the TT.
Thanks in advance!
I know on the 944s you need to drop the rear suspension in order to get the Torque tube out, but is this true of the 968 as well? I know the drive shaft is different in the TT on 968s and thought I would ask as you can do it on a 928 without dropping the suspension, and seems the TT on a 968 is somewhere in between the 944 and 928 design.
Basically I have some bad TT bearings and trying to understand what will be needed to get out the TT.
Thanks in advance!
#3
JHarding,
Thanks for the quick response - I know the trans needs to come out, but on 944s you need to drop the rear suspension. So on a 968, rear suspension removal is not required?
Just trying to be sure as the difference in time required is huge....
Thanks!!
Thanks for the quick response - I know the trans needs to come out, but on 944s you need to drop the rear suspension. So on a 968, rear suspension removal is not required?
Just trying to be sure as the difference in time required is huge....
Thanks!!
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From: Under Your Car
I think people are confusing sliding the torque tube back as with a 944 clutch job, vs removing the torque tube from the car completely. The rear torsion carrier MUST be dropped down to remove the torque tube. The gas tank interferes with sliding the torque tube back, angling it down and out. Not possible. Now....the carrier doesn't need to be removed completely, you can place jackstands under the rear wheel hubs, remove the mounting bolts of the torsion carrier and shocks, and with a jack under the center (this is after transaxle has been removed), lower the carrier down far enough to get the torque tube out and back in if necessary. Then just raise the jack back up, lifting the carrier back into the mounts. The jackstands will allow the carrier to "pivot" so you don't have to drop it completely. I always undo the rear brake lines to allow more room for the carrier to pivot down.
#10
I removed the torque tube in my 968 a few years ago. I removed the entire rear suspension as 1 whole unit - I just took out the bolts holding the assembly to the car, and lowered it onto the ground. I left the e-brake cable attached, but I disconnected the brake hoses. The alignment was not affected, as none of the alignment bolts were touched, and I put the assembly back in such that any bolts with slotted holes lined back up with the dirt marks from before (if that even matters).
On a 968, it's a BITCH getting to the bellhousing bolts, since that bellhousing is enormous. Be patient.
When putting the torque tube back in (if you do put a 968 TT back in, that is) don't tighten the tube-to-bellhousing bolts until you install the clutch parts and move the driveshaft tip forward in through the clutch and pilot bearing. You will need the wiggle room to get that shaft lined up. Then, you can tighten the tube-to-bellhousing bolts.
On a 968, it's a BITCH getting to the bellhousing bolts, since that bellhousing is enormous. Be patient.
When putting the torque tube back in (if you do put a 968 TT back in, that is) don't tighten the tube-to-bellhousing bolts until you install the clutch parts and move the driveshaft tip forward in through the clutch and pilot bearing. You will need the wiggle room to get that shaft lined up. Then, you can tighten the tube-to-bellhousing bolts.