944 N/A power
#16
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 28,705
Likes: 213
From: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
would you guys believe, that @ 161 k miles,
i'm past ____ (maintenance history since birth) on my 968 engine and it's accessory components ?
edit;
pardon me; apparently i can't add.
it's just about $19 k
i'm past ____ (maintenance history since birth) on my 968 engine and it's accessory components ?
edit;
pardon me; apparently i can't add.
it's just about $19 k
#17
I'm surprised nobody mentioned it yet. The quickest and cheapest way to go faster is to drop weight. Weight is everything. It affects all aspects of vehicle dynamics.
Search for threads on ideas to lose weight, and we're not talking diet plans. Of course, if you go crazy, then the car won't be pleasant to drive on a daily basis. But you should be able to drop 200lbs easily. What's the saying? Every 100 lbs is like adding 10hp?
Search for threads on ideas to lose weight, and we're not talking diet plans. Of course, if you go crazy, then the car won't be pleasant to drive on a daily basis. But you should be able to drop 200lbs easily. What's the saying? Every 100 lbs is like adding 10hp?
#19
As far as swaps, I think the only one worth doing in a 944 is a 3.0L 16v NA. Either from a 944S2 or 968. If you swap in a turbo, it's a lot of work and you might as well buy a 944 turbo. 968s and 944S2s are expensive but the engines aren't (relatively speaking), so it makes sense.
But before you go making a big commitment, I'd go with StoogeMoe's recommendation. Especially since you actually AX. You can delete the AC, the rear seat upper section, the rear hatch wiper and motor, the spare tire, the power antenna in the front fender, convert the sunroof to manual and delete the motor, and if you're willing to tolerate increased noise you can remove the hatch carpet and floor mats as well as some headliner trim.
Those can all be done for free or really cheaply. If you want to spend some money, you can get fixed headlights and delete the headlight motor and linkage, a lexan rear hatch, FG hood, racing seats (mind the safety rating - don't buy cheap seats), and an aftermarket catback exhaust. The euro bumpers are fiberglass rather than solid metal so they're way lighter, but pricey. IMHO manual windows aren't worth the minor weight savings. Thankfully the factory wheels are already pretty light, assuming you have either Fuchs or ATS cookie cutters.
But before you go making a big commitment, I'd go with StoogeMoe's recommendation. Especially since you actually AX. You can delete the AC, the rear seat upper section, the rear hatch wiper and motor, the spare tire, the power antenna in the front fender, convert the sunroof to manual and delete the motor, and if you're willing to tolerate increased noise you can remove the hatch carpet and floor mats as well as some headliner trim.
Those can all be done for free or really cheaply. If you want to spend some money, you can get fixed headlights and delete the headlight motor and linkage, a lexan rear hatch, FG hood, racing seats (mind the safety rating - don't buy cheap seats), and an aftermarket catback exhaust. The euro bumpers are fiberglass rather than solid metal so they're way lighter, but pricey. IMHO manual windows aren't worth the minor weight savings. Thankfully the factory wheels are already pretty light, assuming you have either Fuchs or ATS cookie cutters.
#20
Swaps are a lot of work (sourcing parts, wiring diagrams, etc, plus the actual downtime to perform such a swap). I think in the end, the less costly route has been mentioned. The other issue with large HP gains is then the need to upgrade brakes, suspension etc.
By the time you are done spending YOUR money, you could have picked up someone elses completed car for pennies on the dollar.
Sell current car (although you say it is your DD which may cause some logistical challenges) and replace with (if a Porsche, a 944S2, 968 or Boxster).
By the time you are done spending YOUR money, you could have picked up someone elses completed car for pennies on the dollar.
Sell current car (although you say it is your DD which may cause some logistical challenges) and replace with (if a Porsche, a 944S2, 968 or Boxster).
Last edited by racer; 10-10-2012 at 07:56 PM.
#21
My 944's prettier than my wife's boxster. I was hooked when I first drove one in '83. I wouldn't mind an extra 50 hp but I'm past the point where I do "hot rodding" like I did in my teens back in the 60's. Don't have welders, lifts, power hack saws and more important....the loot to pour into a toy. Retirement and the economy saw to that. So unless it's cheap, proven and bolt on, I'll just keep her stock.
#22
One thing no one has mentioned, if you are capable of changing a clutch, which it might be due for, install an aluminum flywheel. If you want to be really budget, and you can find a turbo bell housing, pick up someones slightly used turbo pressure plate, and have the clutch disk re-built. I did this to my 83 na. Also, if you have power steering, switch it out for a manual steering rack (watch the local pick and pull). I'm not sure of what you would need to do this as my 83 was already manual steering. You can also build a budget custom intake, pm me and I can explain how I built mine.
#23
It's hard to say what to recommend when we're not sure of your power goals:
Were you after something more "perky" for autocross or are you looking for something with a much higher top end? Did you want to go turbo or would you rather a smooth powerband? Did you want to try to stay in the same class for your events?
If it were me, I'd swap out to a 3L and replace the transaxle with that from a 968. It's a pretty work heavy job and will cost a fair amount. It'd be cheaper to sell your current car and purchase a 944 turbo in most cases rather than doing this level of swap.
Were you after something more "perky" for autocross or are you looking for something with a much higher top end? Did you want to go turbo or would you rather a smooth powerband? Did you want to try to stay in the same class for your events?
If it were me, I'd swap out to a 3L and replace the transaxle with that from a 968. It's a pretty work heavy job and will cost a fair amount. It'd be cheaper to sell your current car and purchase a 944 turbo in most cases rather than doing this level of swap.
NOS is not allowed on pretty much every race track that has a turn
im a 19 year old student at uni and have an 84' N/A which i absolutely love... its a blast to drive at the PCA autocross, however i find that it is a bit under powered.
ive been on the treads for a while now looking at the best ways to get more power out of my 944, but i cant seem to find the best solution. i cant tell whether doing a v8 conversion (which im not too keen on), or swapping in a turbo 4cyl. is the better option....
i was wondering which is the best (and most affordable) way to bring my 944 up to speed.
cheers
Tom
ive been on the treads for a while now looking at the best ways to get more power out of my 944, but i cant seem to find the best solution. i cant tell whether doing a v8 conversion (which im not too keen on), or swapping in a turbo 4cyl. is the better option....
i was wondering which is the best (and most affordable) way to bring my 944 up to speed.
cheers
Tom
V-8 is the smartest route to go if you really want budget power, but isn't street legal in all areas (AZ allows newer engines to be swaped but NOT larger displacement than originally available from the manf.)
or you know instead of sinking all that money into a 944 you can step up to the big boys league and get a 911
I saw you're looking for more power on the street, but in all reality if you just wanna keep up with some bigger boys at the track get some sticky tires and a stiffer suspension in the car first
#25
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#27
There is a video on YouTube of a guy that mounted it on the engine and had someone in the passenger seat control the throttle for the leaf blower with a stick. I think the idea was to have the passenger act sort of like a blow off valve so the leaf blower wasn't blowing full blast into the engine while the throttle plate was closed.
#28
I did the '85.5 DME/AFM swap. Made a HUGE difference in driveablity and acceleration, I highly recommend it! On a local hill I could just pull the hill in 4th at 45 mph, after swap I could accelerate from 40 mph where I couldn't even do 40 before! Your AFM probably needs to be replaced anyways. If you are here in BC, I have access to an '86 DME.
Last edited by Jamesr6967; 10-14-2012 at 11:46 AM.