Can someone PLEASE PLEASE PLEASEEE help me!!!
09-17-2012, 11:33 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
If the suspension hasn't been dropped in a while (or ever) get some big breaker bars to loosen some of the nuts/bolts. If you do the measurements properly, you can hit it the first time. I didn't....
Also a good chance, while you're in there, to replace the 30 year old rubber with better bushings.
Also a good chance, while you're in there, to replace the 30 year old rubber with better bushings.
09-17-2012, 12:01 PM
#17
Racer
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tbar
Keep in mihd that the torsion bar splines are offset 1/2 spline inner to outer on the bar. So you can pick up a 1/2 spline increment that is what can make it tricky if you don't pay attention..
Example moving it 2 splines inside the tube mount, is different than one spline on inner mount position and one spline on outer ( spring plate ) is actually 1-1/2spline shift. Get a level and protractor start with factory setting then you will need to estimate your bias for lowering. Just do it evenly side to side checking with protractor and level. Yes you may need to do it twice. If you can document where you started and the initial spline shift, you can factor the shift for the next round, if needed.
Example moving it 2 splines inside the tube mount, is different than one spline on inner mount position and one spline on outer ( spring plate ) is actually 1-1/2spline shift. Get a level and protractor start with factory setting then you will need to estimate your bias for lowering. Just do it evenly side to side checking with protractor and level. Yes you may need to do it twice. If you can document where you started and the initial spline shift, you can factor the shift for the next round, if needed.
09-18-2012, 07:57 AM
#18
Cruisin'
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ok, I am starting to understand this. The Tbar is actually more of a locking key. It stops the inner splines from moving freely. The mathematical part is what i really need to read up on. I do remmeber seeing a excel spreadsheet out there for it all. I am going to take measurments this week and do the math. Then I will triple check it before I start this job this weekend. The rear of the car is wicked high right now which can be a dissadvantage to me. Seeing I dropped the front it obviosly raised the rear which I think is going to throw my measurments off. I will double check my measurments to my fathers 944. I know that both cars don't have the same ride height but it will give me a referrence point to where the car used to be.
09-18-2012, 08:12 AM
#19
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Tbar Adj
09-18-2012, 08:51 AM
#20
Three Wheelin'
You dont need no math..no excel file..WTH are you talking about?
it seems to me you're not understanding sh*t
ask for guys who have done it before to come and help or you'll mess it up.
Any measurements you will find on the internet will probably not be right for your car as it all depends on how low the front is.
You need to drop the suspension, measure between the trailing blade and the mounting blade.
The splines in the t-bar carrier dont move...nothing moves.
Look again at this picture and try to identify the suspension bits and understand how the suspension works.
measure as i described in the picture or find your own measuring points.
measure after you took the rear assembly out, and measure after you reindexed the t-bars but before you install it in the car!
READ about the t-bars splines, the inner ones are different from the ones that fit into the outer caps. KNOW what you are doing.
it took me three tries to get it right and i understood how the suspension works.
i used an elevator to drop/install the rear end.
after the lowering you HAVE to get all wheels aligned...go to a good place for that or your car will handle like turd.
took quite some effort but the results are worth the trouble:
it seems to me you're not understanding sh*t
ask for guys who have done it before to come and help or you'll mess it up.Any measurements you will find on the internet will probably not be right for your car as it all depends on how low the front is.
You need to drop the suspension, measure between the trailing blade and the mounting blade.
The splines in the t-bar carrier dont move...nothing moves.
Look again at this picture and try to identify the suspension bits and understand how the suspension works.
measure as i described in the picture or find your own measuring points.
measure after you took the rear assembly out, and measure after you reindexed the t-bars but before you install it in the car!
READ about the t-bars splines, the inner ones are different from the ones that fit into the outer caps. KNOW what you are doing.
it took me three tries to get it right and i understood how the suspension works.
i used an elevator to drop/install the rear end.
after the lowering you HAVE to get all wheels aligned...go to a good place for that or your car will handle like turd.
took quite some effort but the results are worth the trouble:
09-18-2012, 09:55 AM
#21
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Good on you for doing your homework, as I and others said, this is not a trivial exercise. Just accept the fact that you'll likely have to do it at least twice (once to get it close and one more to get it perfect) and you'll be fine.