What to do first? 86 944
#16
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Get the car inspected by a shop that knows Porsches in general, and 944s in particular. You should exit the inspection with three lists:
1. Things that need immediate attention.
2. Things that need attention in the next six to twelve months.
3. Things you'll eventually need to fix.
Ideally you would have done this as a pre-purchase inspection, but whatever. Also look at this inspection as a chance to start building a relationship with a shop that can take care of stuff you can't or don't want to do yourself.
Also let PCNA know you now own the car, and check for recalls / service campaigns that should have been done. The fuel rail or hoses (depends on the model and year) was one of them.
Kevin
Catellus Engineering
1. Things that need immediate attention.
2. Things that need attention in the next six to twelve months.
3. Things you'll eventually need to fix.
Ideally you would have done this as a pre-purchase inspection, but whatever. Also look at this inspection as a chance to start building a relationship with a shop that can take care of stuff you can't or don't want to do yourself.
Also let PCNA know you now own the car, and check for recalls / service campaigns that should have been done. The fuel rail or hoses (depends on the model and year) was one of them.
Kevin
Catellus Engineering
#17
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#18
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Tuna: The brake pad light means that you need to replace the brake pads ASAP. Driving with them for much longer can result in expensive damage to the rotors, calipers, and more. Either that, or the PO didn't pony up the $5 or whatever for a new sensor when he replaced the last set of pads. They're one time use only, because they work by breaking a circuit when the wires are worn through.
#19
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Where in AZ are you?
That "Brake Pad" light means just what it seems to, the brake pads actually have a wear sensor that sometimes actually works.
EDIT Whoops. Excelerate beat me to it, as I had not gone to page 2!
Jeff
That "Brake Pad" light means just what it seems to, the brake pads actually have a wear sensor that sometimes actually works.
EDIT Whoops. Excelerate beat me to it, as I had not gone to page 2!
Jeff
#21
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Wow ok so the brake fluid resi was nearly bone dry. 1-2mm of fluid on the bottom. Filled it with fresh fluid.
You should have seen the air filter that was on this thing! The whole BOTTOM was MISSING! I couldnt even tell from the top, went to clean the filter and not only did it have a huge hole, the neck was seperated from the filter...it was filtering nothing...this could get ugly.
Still have the "Brake Pad!!" light on the dash however. What are the best pads for longevity? I'll pull a wheel and check the current pads. Do all the wheels have sensors??
You should have seen the air filter that was on this thing! The whole BOTTOM was MISSING! I couldnt even tell from the top, went to clean the filter and not only did it have a huge hole, the neck was seperated from the filter...it was filtering nothing...this could get ugly.
Still have the "Brake Pad!!" light on the dash however. What are the best pads for longevity? I'll pull a wheel and check the current pads. Do all the wheels have sensors??
#22
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Also, my handbrake when at the full release position, is very loose on the adjustment thread/nut.
Is it supposed to still be a little tight? When I pull it up the car still rolls so I'm wondering if the cable just isnt being pulled tight enough...thoughts?
Is it supposed to still be a little tight? When I pull it up the car still rolls so I'm wondering if the cable just isnt being pulled tight enough...thoughts?
#23
Instructor
#25
Chainsaw
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Valvoline now has a synthetic dot 3 / 4 brake fluid compatible and interchangeable with all 3 or 4 fluids. It's boiling point is 480 F....and it available at your local parts store w/o having to be ordered on-line. The big city stores may carry ATE but not in my small town setting.
If you do a complete flush, don't forget about the clutch. You have a hydraulic clutch and the clutch slave is located under the car to the left of the starter. The bleed valve is on top facing the rear.
I'll watch this thread and while many here have more experience on 944s than I do, I've recently been delving into my car after a three years on jack stands and have been gifted a complete set of 944 Porsche workshop manuals.
As with the rennlist crowd, if I've misspoken somebody will certainly correct me.
Just about the pic, the RL crowd loves pics, especially scantily clad women. Here is my 944 scantily clad. She's coming off the jack stands. To the right is for the older crowd, a 72 VW beetle. Also in another garage is a MB ML320.
#26
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2 of my favorite cars ^^^
I guess I use Ate brake fluid because it's negligibly more expensive ($5 spread out over 6 months or a year isn't much for a 944) and the entire brake hydraulic system was made by Ate. I use FLAPS brake fluid in all other kinds of cars and trucks and I'm sure Valvoline is more than adequate for street 944's.
I guess I use Ate brake fluid because it's negligibly more expensive ($5 spread out over 6 months or a year isn't much for a 944) and the entire brake hydraulic system was made by Ate. I use FLAPS brake fluid in all other kinds of cars and trucks and I'm sure Valvoline is more than adequate for street 944's.
#28
Chainsaw
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FWIW, do not put power steering fluid in the PS reservoir. The car uses ATF for the power steering.
#30
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Upon search it looks real bad to put power steering fluid in, instead of ATF.
What bad happens? I'm not 100% sure its IN the car, but the bottle was about halfway gone and in the car...
It still steers normally...what should I do?
What bad happens? I'm not 100% sure its IN the car, but the bottle was about halfway gone and in the car...
It still steers normally...what should I do?