Originally Posted by Squatting Ninja

Hey guys,

A how-to for installing keyless entry and trunk release for cars that already have central locking with the unit clipped onto the steering column.

The unit I installed was this:
http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info...roducts_id=671

They do have the correct key blanks and logos.

Its actually pretty simple surprisingly. I also plugged in the turn signal flashes.

-----Keyless entry-----

Locate module that is attached to steering column
Unplug module and if your using cheater connectors, the entire thing wont take long at all to install. You could alternatively splice into the wires and solder them.

Pin 6 on the connector block is +12v (Red/white), Simple hook up the keyless control unit Red +12v to this wire, it is also fused so your safe

Pin 5 on the connector block is ground (Brown), Hook up the new units ground here. (Black wire from new unit)

Pin 9 on the connector block activates the locks (Brown/Red), connect your negative lock trigger here (White wire on the new unit)

Pin 7 on the connector block activates the unlocking circuit (Brown/white), connect your negative unlock trigger here. (White/black wire on the new unit)

You will also need to ground the yellow and yellow/black wire from the new unit. These are the negative pole grounds.

Your now done, give it a test and make sure it functions correctly and smile.

Remove any wires you do not plan to use from the connector block and the wires that do not apply to our cars to keep it neat. The wires that do not apply to our cars are the: Orange, Orange/Black, 2nd Red. If you push the terminal on the new units connector block in, the wire will slip right out.

Zip tie the new unit to the central locking unit and clip back in place, and tidy up all the wiring. If you plan to install the remote boot release, keep reading.

-----Remote boot release-----

This one is also pretty simple, pull the carpet and the switch out from the footwell. You will see there are 3 wires on the boot release, Blue, Red, White.

We will be using a standard relay for this, connect the boot release output wire (Red/Black) to Terminal 86 on the relay.

Terminal 85 on the relay goes to ground.

Terminal 30 on the relay connects to the blue wire on the back of the switch

Terminal 87 on the relay conencts to the red wire on the back of the switch

Route and tidy up all the wires and secure them making sure there are no points where rubbing will occur, job done

Note:
When the car is armed (if you have a factory alarm) and you hit the boot release button and open the boot, the alarm will go off. If you hold the unlock button on the remote for a few seconds, the alarm will de-activate and the boot will open similtaniously. Ive not found a way around this, obviously if the car is disarmed and you open the boot using the boot button on the remote, the alarm will no go off.


-----Turn Signal flashes-----

Again, pretty straight forward, on the new unit there are 2 brown wires, these are for the turn signal flashes. I chose to hook these up at the back of the hazard light switch.

Remove the end cap on the dashboard, you will find a screw holding in the panel there, remove that, remove the small air sensor vent by CAREFULLY turning it anti-clockwise, those it shouldnt be too stiff, those little slots in the vent will break easily! Remove the screw under there. There is a small covering plate, lift that up gently and remove the 2 screw underneath it. The whole panel should come out, there is a plastic tube on the panel where the temp sensor plate is, pull this off and remove the clock and cigarette lighter connections and you should have enough room to work.

Feed the 2 brown wires through to this location you can splice your wires into each side of the turn signals here. I have a memory blank on the wire colours so I will take the panel off again soon to make this complete or someone can feel free to jump in and give the colours

Installation is the reverse yada yada yada..

Job done, make sure everything is neat and conencted/functioning properly.

It may sound grueling but it shouldnt take more than 2-3 hours from start to finish if you take your time and it is definately more fun than messing around with keys!

If I have missed anything feel free to jump in, once it is complete ill put it in the how-to section and hopefully save you guys a bunch of time

The unit I purchased also had an auto window rollup output which I will be connecting to a rollup unit to close the windows and sunroof, I will be adding the how-to on that too here once I sort out a few kinks. Hopefully in the next day or so..

Enjoy all

Disclaimer: Some connections and wire colours will be verified shortly, once this is done I will post it in the how-to section as a complete guide.

Originally Posted by Butters944

My thread in case anybody's interested...

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...6-11-pics.html

Originally Posted by elzergone

Well I definitely found this useful, and was wondering about this as soon as I opened the thread. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Butters944

Ikeyless entry for early (non power lock) cars

Originally Posted by Tiger03447

Although, I have the key alarm switch disconnected from the rest of that system..on my '83, I was wondering if anyone had rigged up a contactor/relay system that would totally "kill" the electrical system in the car after the old alarm switch was turned. This would kill any power that might be going to the radiator fans as well as the rest of the car. When entering the car, one would turn the key, the contacts would close and the electrical system would be armed for starting after the main (start) switch was engaged. After starting, the system would return to normal operation. maybe some of you electrical gurus could expand on this weird idea. thanks.