F40LM

So here we go. If you have any suggestions (other than check the flux capacitor) please make them.

This all started when one of the four bulbs in the IFC hatch third brake light went out. They are real small and after searching at the usual places (Autozone, O'reilys, Advance, Home Depot, Radio Shack etc etc) I decided that the 25 year old lighting system might need an update.

So I ordered a couple of 8" long LED white lights from ebay (hey they were only $6 with shipping so why not try them).

They came in yesterday and I took the old lights out and the LEDs actually fit nicely without having to modify the housing.

Wired them up (feeling pretty happy with myself about this point) and they didn't work. Yes I tested them before wiring them up, they had worked great.

So while trying to solve this little speedbump I noticed my driver side brake light had stopped working. (Well thats kind of wierd) No big deal. Now after going back to the lights this afternoon I got the third brake light to work for about 10 seconds, then the passenger side brake light also stopped working.

Have checked the fuses, checked the bulbs, check the wiring and ran out of ideas. No fire going to the bulb housings on either side. No brake lights at all.

So after getting off one boot (still have the other on) I decided to stop and share my latest 944 adventure with you guys to give you a laugh, and maybe, hopefully you will have mercy and offer some advice.

Of course had I known this was going to go this badly I would have been working on them this morning instead of playing with the corvette....I think I made the 944 jealous.

Michael

kingston944

brake light switch maybe?

mytrplseven

Sounds like brake light switch or it's connector.

F40LM

I considered that, but that wouldn't have caused one side to stop working and then the other. But I will check it first thing in the morning. Thanks guys.

Any other ideas folks?

Fara

I would suggest doing a resistance/continuity check on the brake cables from the brake switch to the rear lights. I'm thinking you may have a cooked wire.

F40LM

Brake switch is intact and connected.

Will check the continuity Fara this afternoon thanks.

michael

pops 83 944

Check you fuses, I had to move my fuses to get my left light to
Start working on my 83!

pettybird

turbo encabulator

F40LM

I checked that right before I checked the flux capacitor since they are located right next to each other.

Any other ideas?

Michael

F40LM

Fuses checked already. They were checked after the turbo encabulator and flux capacitor. But will pull and check them again and clean the posts.

michael

pontifex4

Is there water in your tail light housings?
I second the "check continuity" suggestion, and watch for high resistance if there is continuity. My brake light wiring is on its way out, too, and my voltage gauge actually dips when I step on the brake!

Hollywood D

Grounds?

Perhaps the four horseman are inside your car somewhere?

F40LM

No water in the tail light housings, stopped that a couple of months ago by puting new sealant around them.

Ok so that I am clear, what exactly am I looking for when you say high resistance? I am a more caveman than Einstein when it comes to electrical issues.

michael

Paulyy

Excuse me a little because i cannot be bothered reading the whole thread. read your post (most of it) just tired lol!

but have you tried hitting the light cover with your palm outside the car? mine turns on when i do that which means it's a contact issue with the lights.
easy fix can be sand paper and clean the contacts in the holders.

xsbank

Continuity first. Hook a meter to the light unit and have someone push the pedal. Each light unit. Follow the wiring of the defective unit and remove/clean all connections and all grounds. I like dielectric grease on reassembly, but some don't agree. Your choice. Check with meter again. Trace it back towards the switch and clean that too. Try contact cleaner, my preferred method over dismantling. Check the grounds there, too. While you are on a roll with the cleaner, spray the headlight stalk and the wiper stalk too, work them back and forth while you spray - these are stone-age simple switches and if yours is like mine, your switches are dirty too. You probably should disconnect the battery so you don't traumatize your electrics when you work the switches. Results are terrific. Try it on your power windows one day too. If you've ever owned Volvos you know what I mean!

A comment on contact cleaner - these old switches like the kind with lubricant, otherwise the switch feels "skritchy" (technical term). Don't use the lubricated one on electronics, just switches.