Buying a "work-needed" 951
#1
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From: South Bay San Fransisco, Monterey
Buying a "work-needed" 951
Hi. First off, I would like to say that I KNOW buying a Porsche that doesn't run is a bad idea, but the car I found only has 70k miles and I could get it for a bargain.
I was looking on Craigslist for a 951 and came across an '86 from a second owner that has 70k original miles.
The goods: has all maintenance records since ownership. Major maintenance work completed includes 60K mile service, new clutch, new timing belt, new water pump.
The bads: Been left outside for two years (no snow), with occasional starts that included a freeway loop. I emailed him asking to explain more and he replied: "A while back, when I was checking the coolant levels, I noticed an oily texture in the water. So I checked the oil and it looked a little bubbly. I took it to a mechanic who thought maybe there was just condensation in the engine from lack of use, and he recommended I just drive the thing regularly. Over the next few months I started it a couple of more times and did my usual freeway test drive loop, but last time I went to give it a quick run, it didn't start. The battery is strong, tested at auto store, and kinda new really. Its not turning over- so I'm guessing too much water in the engine is the problem. Of course it could just be a problem with the starter, but I doubt it."
What could this be and how much would it cost to repair? He didn't put up an asking price and wants a best offer. It has major paint damage and needs new tires. I have pictures of under the hood.
thanks
I was looking on Craigslist for a 951 and came across an '86 from a second owner that has 70k original miles.
The goods: has all maintenance records since ownership. Major maintenance work completed includes 60K mile service, new clutch, new timing belt, new water pump.
The bads: Been left outside for two years (no snow), with occasional starts that included a freeway loop. I emailed him asking to explain more and he replied: "A while back, when I was checking the coolant levels, I noticed an oily texture in the water. So I checked the oil and it looked a little bubbly. I took it to a mechanic who thought maybe there was just condensation in the engine from lack of use, and he recommended I just drive the thing regularly. Over the next few months I started it a couple of more times and did my usual freeway test drive loop, but last time I went to give it a quick run, it didn't start. The battery is strong, tested at auto store, and kinda new really. Its not turning over- so I'm guessing too much water in the engine is the problem. Of course it could just be a problem with the starter, but I doubt it."
What could this be and how much would it cost to repair? He didn't put up an asking price and wants a best offer. It has major paint damage and needs new tires. I have pictures of under the hood.
thanks
#2
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From what I've heard a coolant+oil "milkshake" is a major mess and requires lots of time and money. Don't know enough about it though, somebody on here will.
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#4
If the engine has coolant inside the cylinders you are looking at removing the engine and replacing
the parts that are damaged. Main and rod bearings are probably shot so you are probably looking
at a complete engine rebuild or replacement.
A good repaint will probably cost around $5k + depending on your location. Cost of doing any panel repair will increase the total cost of the paint work.
Based on what is being described you could probably find a decent car for less than making the repairs
on that car. What is the condition of the interior? I would pass.
Whatever you do, gook luck.
Clifton
the parts that are damaged. Main and rod bearings are probably shot so you are probably looking
at a complete engine rebuild or replacement.
A good repaint will probably cost around $5k + depending on your location. Cost of doing any panel repair will increase the total cost of the paint work.
Based on what is being described you could probably find a decent car for less than making the repairs
on that car. What is the condition of the interior? I would pass.
Whatever you do, gook luck.
Clifton
#6
Coolant and water mix may or may not be a major issue. I had a little mixing from the oil cooler seals, replaced and all is well. Many others have had similar issues. The big variables are 1. How far was it driven in this condition. 2. What is the source of the problem? 3. Is it hydrolocked? This is a big a problem and sounds like the potential culprit. This can mean bent rods etc..... 4. Headgasket?
All this can be discovered but you need to buy it, or pay someone to diagnose the problem ahead of time. You could be getting a decent car with cosmetic issues or you could be buying a total basket case. I bought a Volvo 940 Turbo in similar condition and ended up putting almost the worth of the car into it fixing. I truly love the car but to the average person it should not have been fixed. Good luck.
All this can be discovered but you need to buy it, or pay someone to diagnose the problem ahead of time. You could be getting a decent car with cosmetic issues or you could be buying a total basket case. I bought a Volvo 940 Turbo in similar condition and ended up putting almost the worth of the car into it fixing. I truly love the car but to the average person it should not have been fixed. Good luck.
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#8
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From: South Bay San Fransisco, Monterey
@black944 turbo: as far as I know he just took it out for short rides. Not heavily driven for two years or since the problem began. If the problem is so severe that it results in the engine not turning over could it be hydrolocked? You mention the possibility of an easy fix, could this still be the case if the engine doesn't even turn over? I could ask him more questions via email. I'd rather not make the 50-mile trek to inspect or have someone inspect it if it's obviously a junked car. Since it doesn't run I would have to tow it to a shop to have them inspect it.
The interior is in perfect condition, but since it sounds like a money pit I think I should skip.
The interior is in perfect condition, but since it sounds like a money pit I think I should skip.
#9
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From: South Bay San Fransisco, Monterey
#11
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From: South Bay San Fransisco, Monterey
I'm not sure how much I can get it for, he wants me to offer. From what I can tell, he knows it's messed up and wants to get rid of it. Also, the exterior is complete crap:
http://imgur.com/zD7HW
I don't think I should buy it if the engine is bad. The only reason I took interest in the car was because of its 70k original miles. I am hoping there is a way to tell if it's just a minor fix or if there's tons damage.
http://imgur.com/zD7HW
I don't think I should buy it if the engine is bad. The only reason I took interest in the car was because of its 70k original miles. I am hoping there is a way to tell if it's just a minor fix or if there's tons damage.
#12
If you can get it for 2k - 2.5k and you dont mind learning and doing stuff yourself i say go for it.
no real way to verify if its 70k I would be surprised if the odometer wasnt broken. With that being said i wouldnt let mileage make the decisions on these cars for obvious reasons.
Also the exterior isnt trashed. It looks complete and a paint job away from being really nice. If you have 7k to invest in parts and paint i think you would have a really nice car in the end. I wouldn't get it if you weren't willing to make the commitment.
no real way to verify if its 70k I would be surprised if the odometer wasnt broken. With that being said i wouldnt let mileage make the decisions on these cars for obvious reasons.
Also the exterior isnt trashed. It looks complete and a paint job away from being really nice. If you have 7k to invest in parts and paint i think you would have a really nice car in the end. I wouldn't get it if you weren't willing to make the commitment.
#13
I agree with Carlege. As for minor or major no way to tell unless someone that knows the car does a lot of diag. Hydrolock can bend a rod just by using the starter, others on rennlist have had this issue.