Reference Speed Sensor Removal Gone Wrong
#16
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I of course left my telescoping magnet at work so I cant try that until tomorrow... I hope it works though... Anybody have any undercarriage pictures? I forgot to take some when I had the thing in the air last week.
#17
Nordschleife Master
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You MIGHT be able to get it out using a LONG set of needle nose pliers, it is aluminum (not magnetic) but is thin, and you should be able to collapse it from above to pull it back out the hole you are looking at it through..
And I feel you on the only car.. mine is my only car at the moment, and tonight I depowered my rack due to a blown out line... but my commute is 62 miles each way!
And I feel you on the only car.. mine is my only car at the moment, and tonight I depowered my rack due to a blown out line... but my commute is 62 miles each way!
#18
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Aluminum, lovely... Baaaaaaaaaaad week for this to happen lol, makes me really wanna quit my job, especially when I can make the same amount of money within walking distance... Milk was a bad choice...
#20
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Ok so this idea just came to me. What if you went to the hardware store and bought a saw blade similar to the one you put on a hacksaw, only smaller. More like a blade for a coping saw. Use that to carefully cut the inside of the aluminum sensor. Basically cut it into 4 pieces, so you have four fingers (for lack of a better term). Use the needle nose to crimp all those fingers together, then pull from the top.
I would also have a strong magnet handy, you don't want anything falling back in there. Search for 'bolt fell in clutch inspection hole' and read peoples horror stories.
I don't know, just an idea.
I would also have a strong magnet handy, you don't want anything falling back in there. Search for 'bolt fell in clutch inspection hole' and read peoples horror stories.
I don't know, just an idea.
#21
Rennlist Member
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If you can get a helper, you can snake about 3' of extensions with swivel on the end up from around the TT, have the helper guide the correct socket driver into the bracket bolt heads. It's about impossible to get any swing on a regular hex key, or any leverage. It's always tempted me to put regular hex head bolts back in there.
#22
Rennlist Member
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I don't think you're going to be able to pull that back up through the hole. The only thing I could think of would be to drill a long sheet metal screw into the bottom of it, and then maybe be able to pull it up through.
Otherwise you're going to have to pray that it will not get stuck on the clutch and you can rotate it so it can be removed from the bottom. Otherwise, and you're probably cringing right now, is to remove the bellhousing.
Otherwise you're going to have to pray that it will not get stuck on the clutch and you can rotate it so it can be removed from the bottom. Otherwise, and you're probably cringing right now, is to remove the bellhousing.
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#23
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If you can get a helper, you can snake about 3' of extensions with swivel on the end up from around the TT, have the helper guide the correct socket driver into the bracket bolt heads. It's about impossible to get any swing on a regular hex key, or any leverage. It's always tempted me to put regular hex head bolts back in there.
I thought that the bell housing was sealed on the bottom.
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#25
#26
Rennlist Member
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I had a ref sensor break like that. It was at clutch change and it's a lot easier with BH off. Because the can is aluminum it is easy to tear apart. Using a hammer and awl get between the can and BH and start separating it, as you get lower it will release and a needle nose will pull it out.
#27
Rennlist Member
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I'd drop some super glue down in to the casing there and dangle a small string in to it so you can hang on to it, break the bracket loose without worrying about it dropping in. It's pretty thin aluminum but not thin enough that you'd be able to pull it back out I think.
#28
Proprietoristicly Refined
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So the barrel sure didn't want to come out with the rest of the sensor, nor any of the ways that I was trying to coax it out with... but oh boy! It sure wanted to go in even farther! Somebody.... Put a ****in bullet through my brain... Normally this wouldn't be such a big deal for me but atm this is my ONLY car... and I work 24 miles away at a job that makes me want to go postal...
![](http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m292/Twigmaster18/2ea8f66b.jpg)
![](http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m292/Twigmaster18/2ea8f66b.jpg)
I see by the picture that you have a cracked TDC sensor. This sensor is for the factory only and does not need to be replaced.
Are you keeping us in drama to find out if the remaining Speed Sensor is going to come out easy?
GL
John
#29
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Try what Ben951S suggested and get a long needle nose plier. Grab the side of the can and twist, twist, twist until the can collapses/crushes--then pull it out--it may work.
I see by the picture that you have a cracked TDC sensor. This sensor is for the factory only and does not need to be replaced.
Are you keeping us in drama to find out if the remaining Speed Sensor is going to come out easy?
GL
John
I see by the picture that you have a cracked TDC sensor. This sensor is for the factory only and does not need to be replaced.
Are you keeping us in drama to find out if the remaining Speed Sensor is going to come out easy?
GL
John