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Great link man. Thanks. Will dig into the cowl when I get home and see what I can come up with. At least it's a starting point, and a chance to learn more about the system.
I don't do A/C so I took mine to a shop and had them switch over to R134 fittings, recharge and injected a dye for future leak detection. It was $150 for that. Cold A/C now. We'll see how long it takes to bleed down (if it indeed does have a leak).
Recently, the AC compressor grenaded itself internally, creating massive amounts of squeal. Replaced the compressor, flushed the AC system, recharged the system, and everything was okay for a about a week, with the AC working great and belts quiet. Today, when driving the car, the belt started squealing when the AC compressor was engaged, so I turned off the AC. Belt continued to squeal, then broke completely, accompanied by alot of smoke.
If the series of events are complete, possibly the 'flush' was not complete enough, system pressures got too high or lack or enough refrigerant/oil flow....
I'd lean towards the compressor as the issue and inspect the condenser blower motor.
I might need help with this too... I had squeal and after tightening it it finally had enough and the compressor bolts sheared, belts shredded, and those metal belt wires cut my oil cooler line and my car lost all of it's blood I had converted to 134a, using the same compressor. My car is an '87 951 by the way. I could spin the compressor easily though when I checked it, did this all happen because of tightening the turnbuckle too much? Compressor wants to escape! Made some fresh oil-belt noodle soup
It seems like you used a v-belt on there. Am I seeing that right?
Rafay, on my 944, I use a 6 PK belt with 6 ribs. It goes on the ribbed pulleys of the crank shaft, which is clearly visible in your lower photo, and the a/c compressor and the alternator. Is this different than what you had been using? Does your a/c compressor and alternator have a v-belt slot? Mine do not.
When first switched on, low side is 30 PSI, high side is 100 PSI. After one rev above 2000 RPM, low side spikes and stays t about 80 PSI, high side remains 100 PSI.
There is an Expansion Valve in this system it is a small orifice that lets the high go to low therefore Generating the Coolness.. Its under the dash and an absolute Son-of- a $%$% to get to...
Another thing to look at is the Sight glass on your dryer located in the left front … If there is nothing "moving" Rap on it with a Rod, Sometime that will dis-lodge a clog but usually only temporary fix..
You're welcome. Another thought I have for you is misalignment. I would think that at least one of your mounting bolts was broken prior to Chef 944's noodle soup. If this was the case, the a/c compressor may have been misaligned and was therefore causing squealing. Additionally, a lose mounting bolt on the compressor can make proper tension difficult to achieve and maintain, which would also cause the squealing.
Thirdly, after you get new mounting bolts, and a belt, you can check for symmetrical rotation of the crank pulley. Bad rotation of the pulley is unlikely but possible and would be associated with other problems, such as poor oil pressure and oil leaks in that area (at least that's what I've heard, because the oil pump is back there).
I might need help with this too... I had squeal and after tightening it it finally had enough and the compressor bolts sheared, belts shredded, and those metal belt wires cut my oil cooler line and my car lost all of it's blood I had converted to 134a, using the same compressor. My car is an '87 951 by the way. I could spin the compressor easily though when I checked it, did this all happen because of tightening the turnbuckle too much?
Oh you had this happen too. I have been breaking the bolts all spring here and finally figured it out....
The problem is this: You put on the front and rear bolt with a washer, tighten it up, and go driving. This is not enough: The vibrations from the compressor work the bolts loose, then the rear bolt falls out, the front bolt shears, and you get that result.
What you need to do is put a lock washer on the front and rear bolts. I also put a nylon lock nut on the rear bolt since it had stripped the threads in my compressor. Tightened the rear bolt as tight as possible with belt off and compressor all the way out (so I could get a tiny wrench in there to hold the nylock nut) then pulled the compressor in, put the belt on, put the tensioner on, set tension, then tightened the HELL out of the front bolt with the lock washer on it.
Been a week and it has not budged and the compressor doesn't vibrate because it's held in there insanely tight. If it loosens the bolts will work out of there and the usual happens.
It's not the compressor is unbalanced, you need lock washers. Get the right metric ones.
03-21-2012, 12:28 PM
I had converted to 134a, using the same compressor. My car is an '87 951 by the way. I could spin the compressor easily though when I checked it, did this all happen because of tightening the turnbuckle too much? 
