I have been struggling with the clutch and the brakes on the 100% rebuild of 1987 944NA.
My big problem is the clutch. The shaft of the slave cylinder is too far forward. The cup of the the release fork lever is almost centered in the portal. The travel length is still within spec i.e., 15-18mm BUT when operating the clutch pedal it is obvious by feel that the clutch is engaging and disengaging way at the bottom of the pedal instead of the top. I have been suspicious that I did not set the release fork lever in the right postion relative to the release bearing. So I have removed the exhaust, transmission, starter and slave cylinder and torque tube. It has been so long since I have done a clutch (all the others were with the engine on a stand) I can't remember how much play is allowed on a clutch fork release lever when the slave cylinder is disengaged from the bell housing. In my case the fork release will travel back and forth all of another 15 mm. Is it supposed to be tight when it is set on the release bearing?

 

did you put the proper shims in w/the throwout bearing? I just replaced my '87 clutch and after setting the TO bearing with the proper shims, the installation of the clutch fork went in without issue. I made no adjustments to anything and the clutch came out like factory settings. Maybe I'm just lucky or perhaps the above answer is part of your problem. You do have the clutch disc oriented the proper way, right? One side goes toward the transmission. It probably wouldn't have gone together if backwards, but I had to ask.

 

your old clutch was worn out and you got used to it engaging and disengaging at the top
A new clutch will engaging and disengaging right off of the floor

 

You can adjust the clevis on the clutch master cylinder (the block that attaches the master to the pedal) and turning it one way will raise the engagement point further from the floor.

 

Okay I have installed everything from a 84 944 na into a 87 turbo shell EVERYTHING else is from the 84 NA including the engine, transmission, bell housing, torque tube, rear end, front and rear suspension, wiring harness (with modifications to fit the fuse block into the box where a full 85.5 fuse/relay panel block goes in the engine compartment and to move the Motronic to the passenger footwell instead of beneath the steering wheel). It has taken the best part of two years since we started but everything runs as it should (some minor adjustment are still required to tweak stuff) with the exception of the clutch set up AND I am still looking for a clutch pedal for an 85.5+ as the 84 clutch pedal is longer on the top end and extends slightly into where the 85.5 fuse block should be but, as I have it, the 84 fuse/relay block fits in with a modification and the top of the clutch pedal does not bother it. However, I think that the geometry of an 84 clutch pedal is different from the geometry of an 85.5 + clutch pedal.

I checked my paper work and the numbers on my system and this is what I have:

Brake Cylinder is a MEYLE 014 532 0004
Master Cylinder is a FTE 5232
Slave Cylinder is a *** S6323
Brake Booster is a ATE 944 355 025 03 w/ additional ID # of 3.6952-0302.4

I have asked on a few forums if these were all compatable components but I don't recall getting a straight answer on that issue.

I thought the the slave cylinder was new but quite frankly having spent so many hours under/over/in/out of the car I am not sure where it came from now.

Maybe someone can tell me if these will work together properly and then I will order the pressure plate after getting your fedback.

Thanks,

 

+1

It could also be that you still have a little air in the system. I just did mine and it felt the same as you are describing. I drove around for a day and air must have risen through the master, and now it's fine.
Do some research on bleeding the clutch. I saw a video where they bled the clutch by "pushing" fluid from the slave end up.