They need to go back in the same hole. If they are switched you won't get the correct readings and the car won't start. I believe the sensor connected to the bottom of the bracket on the manifold goes to the hole closest to the front of the car.

 

Absolutely the same hole. There may also be a third sensor just below the two reference sensors. This is a Timing reference sensor used by the factory techs. IMHO if you make a "notch" in the flywheel, you're prone to losing small parts down that rabbit hole when you're trying to put the ground strap and reference nuts and bolts back in. Tape over the square hold before you try to put those back in after all the "hard" work so you don't lose them. One thing I almost missed when I was almost done is that there are two ground wires that go on a stud on top of the bell housing. I had forgotton about the second one. Also make sure the small timing ref screws on the flywheel are pointing down when re-installing the bellhousing. That's to avoid damaging them in the process. It fun getting the clutch lever shaft out. Patience and I recommend replacing the two bearings before replacing the shaft.

Take a look at the routing of the wiring for the starter motor before you move it out of the way. It's a pain after the clutch slave and everything is installed. There's two wire clamps that hold the two cables in place on the bellhousing.

When I was installing the torque tube back into the bellhousing and it stops at about 1/2" it's because the end of the drive splined shaft is sitting on the edge of the pilot bearing. I ended up raising the front of the motor a hair to slide it in. Don't force it or use the four torque tube bolts to "pull" it in.

I'm available for chatting about any of the process @ mytrplseven@aol.com

 

I can see how someone would theorize about that, but collective experience here seems to confirm it is not a real world concern. It made no difference on my car.

 

This is from my collection of 4 volumes of Porsche Technical bulletins years 1984 to 1988

 

This will work but I found the easiest way is to just bolt on the slave to the bell housing making sure the clutch fork pocket and the slave shaft meet.

Press in the clutch pedal ( if you are alone, have a piece of wood to wedge between the seat front and depressed pedal) and the PP pressure plate will release allowing you to shove the TT torque tube in the last half inch....

GL
John

 

Got her all together except for the transaxle and shifter assembly. not for 4 hours of work. Tomorrow should be fun, i finally get to drive it again. I want to say thank you for all the tips.

 

nice job!

dont forget to give everything a good visual second pass before you set her down.

 

Nice post! Has anyone ever seen one like the first picture with a factory slot B -- on a 951? Looks like the slot is only for the first sensor, so you'd still need to cut it to get the quick-change clutch benefit. With the little shields they added to the bracket, I suspect most suspected "interference" issues these days are really just starters going bad.

 

Yes they do. I marked the one nearest the front with tape to make sure it went in the "front" hole.