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adding oil coler to an n/a

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Old 02-16-2012 | 01:18 AM
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Default adding oil coler to an n/a

I have a 951 I'm parting and I have the oil cooler left. What's the best way to add that to my 89 944? I know I can get an oil filter sandwich plate from different sources, like pelican, or I could try to source a 951 oil filter housing.

what are the advantages or either set up? I know the sandwich plate is easier and probably cheaper but I'm going to be timing belt, water pump, head gasket ect so I'll be resealing my my oil filter housing anyways.
Old 02-16-2012 | 02:21 AM
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Personally i would throw the 951 oil filter housing on, its a good idea to replace the seals in that housing anyhow to prevent any coolant / oil mixing. No better time to do it than with the cylinder head off also!

The oil filter sandwich plates are ok, but can be a little annoying sometimes with the center nut loosening when you take the oil filter off. They do have the advantage of giving you a place to put an extra temperature or pressure sender though.
Old 02-16-2012 | 03:28 AM
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well if I can find a 951 housing at a good price before start, I'll go that way.
Old 02-16-2012 | 08:44 AM
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PM sent.
Old 02-16-2012 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Techno Duck
Personally i would throw the 951 oil filter housing on, its a good idea to replace the seals in that housing anyhow to prevent any coolant / oil mixing. No better time to do it than with the cylinder head off also!
This is what I do. I have a 951 oil filter housing and turbo lines. I replace the NA oil filter housing. With the right OPRV for each I have used this housing both early and late NA blocks with no issues.
Old 02-16-2012 | 11:39 AM
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I need a 1 piece for a 2.7 block correct?
Old 02-16-2012 | 11:52 AM
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from my research I would need:
turbo filter housing
1 piece ORV valve since I have a 2.7
new lines, either have a local shop fix the bent lines off the parts car or use -an to jic adaptors and make new lines not stainless steal
turbo oil cooler
Old 02-16-2012 | 11:52 AM
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Yep, you need the 1-piece valve. Someone correct me if i am wrong but i am pretty sure you can reuse your old valve from your '89. If your original wont work, i have a spare 1-piece valve i took off my '88 951 as preemptive maintenance.

If you still need the housing, i am pretty sure my friend has one down at his garage collecting dust. Ill be down there later and will see what he wants for it.
Old 02-16-2012 | 11:55 AM
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BTW, make sure you get the one piece alignment tool also for installation. The later style 1-piece valve is more prone to binding if you dont get the alignment of the housing right.
Old 02-16-2012 | 12:15 PM
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After the author of this thread gets taken care of.....

I need a spare 951 filter housing for a new build if someone has an extra, please send me a PM.
Old 02-16-2012 | 01:24 PM
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Looks like, at least for 89, the 944, S2, and 951 all use the same valve. Stopped by Porsche and looked in the PET catalog.

P/N 944 107 035 02

Edit:
Clarks Garage also had the information
http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/lube-02.pdf

Last edited by pkt1213; 02-16-2012 at 01:51 PM.
Old 02-16-2012 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pkt1213
I need a 1 piece for a 2.7 block correct?
The OPRV you have now you should be able to use in the turbo housing. My Turbo housing was from an 86 motor and I have used it on an 88 block the ORPV from the 88 block and also on an 84 block when I used my 86 "update" 1 piece OPRV.
Old 02-16-2012 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Techno Duck
BTW, make sure you get the one piece alignment tool also for installation. The later style 1-piece valve is more prone to binding if you dont get the alignment of the housing right.
I don't think so as you can use the valve as the alignment tool. If you are using the 3 piece you NEED the tool. If you do it carefully you can use the valve as the alignment tool by slowly tightening each of the 4 bolts on the housing going around each bolt 5-6 times. Always checking to make sure the OPRV is still free to spin. If it binds at all back off one bolt go slower. In time the housing will seat and the valve will still be free and this will allow it to work properly.
Old 02-16-2012 | 04:26 PM
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What you need are -12AN to 22mm metric fittings. Like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-670100/

Then you can make up your own plumbing.
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Old 02-16-2012 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Van
What you need are -12AN to 22mm metric fittings. Like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-670100/

Then you can make up your own plumbing.
That is EXACTLY what I needed....thank you


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